A Model 1 is 7 1/8" OAL from the receiver.

Brad

I like mine but do you know what can be used as an end cap? Where the threaded hole s? Does anyone make a nice cap or something?

I just got my ACE Ltd Improved Pistol Kit on Friday.  I had tried a Model 1 kit and then the RRA new style buffer tube and I had trouble with both not allowing the upper to close on the lower.  With the ACE pistol kit the buffer tube sits back farther into the receiver allowing the two halfs to close properly.  I will now be selling a fairly new Model 1 pistol kit and a new RRA new style buffer tube.  I love the ACE kit!  Also, the ACE kit uses the same buffer tube as is on the ARFX-E stock and the ultra light stock, with the threaded hole in the end.  ACE does warn that owning a buttstock, such as the ultra light stock has, may be illegal.  I do not own one and I installed the foamy on to the tube which should leave little question as to legality.  I spent 25 years in street law enforcement before moving into campus law enforcement for an additional ten years....it is time that 'we' stop convicting people for what they might do and start punishing the persons who actually do commit crimes in our country.  Nuff said.

Just waded thru the postings here. Seemed like alot of problems/poor understanding of inertia mass spring strength/ and or whining. While I find the skeletal type most pleasing the GSE shorty has had my finger on the buy button many times. All along, as well as with 1911 mods, I have intended to use not the extra power Wolff springs (which reside in my 1911's along with full length guide rods and cushioning recoil end point plungers and recoil breaks to allow "hot" handloads) but there is a easily found setup which is next for trials by this newbie.

That is the recoil spring assembly found in the lower rec/buttstock of the ZB/Bren family of LMG's. A long and solid record of performance under fire. There are lots of parts kits and bits out there and offer this suggestion as a possibility. The Bren spring has an end plate with a central guide rod. Two springs, thin and thick ride on the rod. The dual spring setup not only provides more power than will ever be needed but results in a more linear compression force curve. The outer diameter of outer spring is just about perfect as a 1911 substitute spring. The assembly is far too long and must be trimmed to length, one unit will likely make two 1911/ar15 pistol "springs" to fit the GSE template. It took me awhile to understand exactly how the GSE works but not until I understood that the recoil spring resides partially WITHIN the rear of bolt carrier did all make sense.

Now I have not tried this out yet but offer the idea as a subject of discussion and experimentation. Certainly far more experienced builders than I read these postings but sometimes the simplest things can be overlooked by experts while newbies can see both forest and trees. Hopefully this has been tried somewhere and can save me headaches.

Problems to figure out-
1. How much inner and outer springs would need trimming to optimize?
2. How long to cut guide rod? Is it necessary at all? After all will not compress unless telescoped. Will a holding pin and attendant hole in guide rod be necessary for disassembly?
3. Gas port on barrel diameter as well as gas tube inner diameter effects dwell and are both controllable variables.
4. I do not believe in oprod systems as the beauty of the DI system lies in all moving parts being directly in bore axis. Think of the off axis chunk of steel banging back and forth in ak type systems.      Additionally the initial gas injection supports bolt lockup until the carrier has acquired sufficient inertial momentum to complete the entire cycling process.
5. WHY BOTHER? What is wrong with a OA-93 upper receiver? Also a pretested kit seems a wise choice rather than scratch built with how many failures and wasted time and parts to get to the kit or prebuilt unit point. 4 inches sticking out the back are inadequate for shoulder support or anchoring in the hip elbow pinch in an urgent from the hip mode.

The skeletal stock, same length as extended collapsible, is stronger (mine is homebrew stainless steel) and in SBR configuration seems hard to beat. The advantages of a pistol configuration seem to be nothing more than an end run around SBR laws, I want something that will serve at 400 yards as well as 400 inches. A tall order but this platform with a strong skeletal and 11 inch barrel can do it. The ballistics with a 7 inch barrel cost alot of velocity and with it accuracy, after all the projectile flight time is extended substantially and with it wind and drop adjustments become more critical.

OK, my 2 cents worth, await corrections and enlightenment
a newbie......

hey I am new to site i have a sig p556 pistol  and i am going to do a sbr withit and i am wondering what buffer tubes and stocks i should check out and where to find them . Also I want to change out the forend sig said that they are the only ones who can change  the forend out and only offer the swat that comes on the swat  edition p556 any help would be great and thanks

i'm new to ar pistol, i don't understand what this mean,
RRA Entry Stock Tube ––––-> Works 100% but you need to rig something to hold the pin in the rear of the lower for the selector

It involves this work-around: Rear Takedown Pin Detent Mod
Or, getting a receiver end plate to work with your buffer tube.

The "bushmaster mod" (using a bushmaster short BCG or a cut down BC in conjunction with a Model 1 or other short buffer tube assy) was referred to a couple of pages (and several years) ago. Did the idea die? I read the threads that it referred to, but all the pics were down. Did anyone get this down to a 100% reliable system with a +/- 2" buffer tube? That plus a modified Nordic CRS or similar "fully collapsible" stock would be a sweet package for an entry gun, especially something in the SBR class.

Back in '95, to retain the take-down pin detent spring in my pistol lower, I modified the receiver end plate with my shorty buffer assembly ( I think it is a Gunsmoke Ent. buffer kit):

I found a short hex cap screw, about 3/16" long, and, using a tap, threaded the spring hole opening at the rear of the receiver deep enough for the screw to thread in all the way.  

I shortened the spring by about 1/8" or so with wire cutters and ground the cut end flat and square on a grinder. I inserted the shortened spring into the hole and screwed the cap screw in to retain it.
NOTE: a flush set screw instead of a cap screw would have been easier, and canceled the need for the following mod:



After measuring and marking the receiver end plate for the location of the now protruding cap screw head, I clamped it into a drill press vise and drilled a hole just large enough to fit over the cap screw head. It actually broke out the side of the receiver plate, but that was Ok, the "C" shaped hole fit nicely around the screw head.

Assembled the buffer tube on the receiver, Voila! Problem solved, spring retained.  I can now takedown the buffer tube assembly without having the spring pop out, or I can remove the spring to take out the pin without having to remove the buffer tube.



Just FYI: I am still using the same original buffer spring 16 years/1,000 or so rounds later.  I bought a couple spare springs back in the day but have never used them.  Gun shoots great!

I'm trying to find the RRA buffer tube in their site, but I only see the complete AR-Pistols! could someone find me a link?

The RRA Entry Stock Tube is different then the RRA Pistol Tube.

The Pistol Tube has longer threads,and the Entry Stock Tube has A2 tube length threads.


RRA site shows the Pistol Tube on the Pistol lowers page at the bottom,and it is available seperately for $25

They also offer free shipping on orders of $25 or more.

I ordered a pistol tube,they shipped it free,and I had it in 4 days.

Is there any way I can use the Magpul sling plate with this buffer tube?

The sling plate will be perfect with the Pistol Tube.

If you use the sling plate with an Entry Stock Tube,the tube will not hold the buffer detent in place.

I recently picked up an ACE tube assembly and just don't feel comfortable with it. It doesn't have a locking base plate like the regular buffer tubes. It's the same length as the regular collapsible tubes so I slid the foam over a collapsible tube and used a regular plate with a detent so Im more comfortable with it locking up. I installed a single point sling too.

When using the smaller diameter receiver extension tube (RET) , use the Ace ultralite gusset to hold in the rear pin spring and cover it with a foam sleeve.

It is illegal under Federal law to install a buffer tube on a AR Pistol that will still accept a stock.

You might be surprised at how easy it is to get busted at a public range or by a cop who knows what he's doing.

 



 

False.

If you have a full size AR and a 11.5 Upper sitting next to it in the safe you could get charged with constructive intent for an SBR.

Now if you had an AR pistol sitting there or a Lower with a pistol buffer tube on it , you're good to go.







 

I believe the proper term is constructive possession.

Constructive intent would indicate the need to prove intent (not very likely).

Constructive possession is possessing the parts to construct.

BIG difference.

I found that letter in this thread, in this forum.

has anyone used the phase 5 tactical buffer tubes?
http://www.phase5tactical.com/products/weapon-systems/phase-5-ar15-pistol-buffer-tube-complete-assembly-pbt-ca-

Here is an up to date letter, 12-2-2011.

link

Greetings from Manchester MI. I have just assmbld an ar pistol. Thank you for all the info. I do not have a foam or rubber cover for my buffer tube. Any suggestions?
What are my options?

You might try a bicycle shop for the foam . . . . not sure about the sizes available.

Has there been any new news about using the short Gunsmoke Engineering tubes ?

I skimmed through the last couple years and saw mixed reviews , but nothing solid lately .


I'm really liking the looks of these 2nd Gen kits HERE for $265 . It includes a modified chromed bolt carrier .

Mixed feeling about mine.  

On the plus side, its' short, looks cool and seriously cuts down on the overall lenth of the pistol.

On the negative side, mine had problems with the GSE spring not staying put on the modified bolt carrier.  Also, with the spring up over the bolt carrier like that, the forward assist just hits the spring and doesn't work well.

Paladin beat you to it....
Sorry, I'm a natural smarta$$.

OK so I read most of this thread and maybe I missed it ...

Is there any mod that could be done to a standard 6 position buffer tube so that it could be used on a pistol lower? Some way to make it so that a stock could not fit on it?

Remove the material at the bottom and put a foam cover over it.

I have a Gunsmoke 7.5" pistol kit with the short, pistol spring buffer.  It works great.  There is an insert for the carrier that allows a small diameter pistol spring to run inside the bolt carrier.  It makes for an extremely compact package.  The only difference is you have to unscrew the rear cap and dump the spring before you can split the upper and lower.  If you oil the insert properly it is easy enough to remove.  I have run several hundred rounds through it with no issues.  Very loud and huge fireball at night.

won't the KNS push button take down pin solve the problem of the spring and detent? Is there something im missing?

Why not just use the set screw mod?  Tap the takedown pin detent hole with a #4-40 tap to a depth of about 1/64" longer than your set screw, clean it out thoroughly, then shorten the detent spring to accommodate the length of the set screw.  Now put in the takedown pin, the detent, and spring, and hold it in place with your setscrew.  Make sure you lubricate that tap VERY well, and go slowly, because you don't want to have it break in your lower.

If anyone wants pics and/or needs the tools to do this, IM me for info.

I've done this to my lower.  Works great, no flying springs.  Also, it gives teh option for not using a backplate.  Just one thing, be sure to put some grease on the screw so the alluminum that goit threaded doesn't gall.

My Aero Precision Lowers come already threaded - simple as it gets and a GREAT mod even if you have to tap your lower (no more hunting for flying springs and detents).
I use the Phase 5 Tactical Pistol Buffer Tube - has a nice Logo, foam cheek weld cover and says "Pistol" for the bitchie little girls who want to argue about ATF rulings on barrel lengts, Pistol lowers and the likes
I run H buffers with Sprinco Blue springs on all my pistols - 7.5 and 10.5 barrels in my 5.56 family and 7.5 and 11.5 for my 7.62 barrels.
They all run 100% reliable even with Wolf (the WPA) ammo - I did have to polish the chambers on all of them to increase the reliability to 100%.

Just bought and installed a Phase 5 Tactical pistol bufferkit.  Runs like a clock.  The charging handle is somewhat stiff to pull back, but it has cycled flawlessly.  I am running it with a 11.5" barrel and a semi-auto BCG.

Does anyone have a Spikes ST-9BS Buffer Spacer?  Need to know how long it is.  I was thinking of using a Phase5 Tactical Pistol Buffer Kit and cutting off an inch or so off of the threaded end and just using a standard buffer for my 9mm AR build.  This would both shorten the buffer tube and eliminate the need for a long 9mm buffer or buffer spacer.  What do you think?

My ST-T2 is 3 and 1/4" long from end to end.

I know there was an earlier posting trying to collect the lengths of various pistol buffer tubes, but I'm looking for a different measurement.  I'm looking to see if anyone here with a PSA buffer tube can give me an accurate OD measurement. I'm looking to build two pistols, and am doing one with a Spikes kit and the other will be PSA whenever their pistol build kits come in. I'm asking because they don't show up on this chart: Pistol Buffer Tube Cover Fit Chart, and the specs aren't on PSA's website.

I did find a post here where somebody said the PSA pistol tube is an RRA tube. If anybody could confirm that, it would answer the question as well since RRA is on the chart.

Thanks in advance.

Chuck it in a lathe, turn the rib off of it that the buttstock aligns on, and make it a smooth round tube.

i built a tube for mine and its the same size as the bushmaster carbon pistol but its aluminum and uses a custom buffer and smaller m4 spring. need to get out and run some rounds to see if it works for more then a couple rounds
video

You realize you responded to a post that was 1.3 years old?

At any rate, there's no real legal reason to modify a standard 6 position buffer tube for pistol use. Just don't also have a stock in your possession that has no other legal use, and don't tempt fate by having an "extra" one with you out and about even if it does. Simple.

- OS

tag for ideas

I am waiting for my PSA 10.5 diamond upper to come in.  Is Spikes Tactical ST-T3 Heavy Buffer an overkill for this build?  I am running standard carbine springs and pistol  buffer tube from Guntec.  
Thanks

This maybe a dumb question, but I was looking at buffer tubes. It seems like some come with a castle nut and some don't. What is the purpose of the castle nut. What purpose does the nut serve that it is not required on the carbine stocks. Thank you

If it comes with a castle nut, it's built like a carbine receiver extension and needs the castle nut to allow you to line it up correctly.  If it doesn't come with one, it's made like a rifle receiver extension and you just torque it into the lower receiver.

Ok, is one better than the other?

Any well made receiver extension will be much superior to any poorly made one.  Other than that, it's pure esthetics.  Do you want your pistol to look one particular way?  Use that kind of extension.  Want it to look different?  Use a different one.

Looking at building an AR lower and before I buy the lower I am trying to figure out if the Phase 5 Tactical has Mil-spec threads.  Its looking like it is but you know what they say about assuming...

Can anyone confirm?

Thanks guys.

Yep they do.  Ive got them on 3 lowers all mil-spec