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Posted: 9/7/2012 7:03:44 PM EDT
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My .308ORC has got to have the $hittiest trigger ever, it has what seems to be 2 separate slight take ups to a drop. I'm not asking for a 200+$ trigger job, what I am looking for is info on the JP Trigger Spring kits.
I shoot exclusively steel cased ammo only not surplus, but nonetheless is steel cased. For those of you who has used any of the four kits what are your thoughts on them, do they do what they are designed to do? (Not looking for Sub moa or any of the like this is a HD rifle ) http://www.jprifles.com/1.4.8.3_spring.php |
| I can't speak specifically about those kits but from what pieces I've used from them -barrel, low mass carrier, muzzle break- they've been legit. Fit and finish is par none. And if you try it and don't like it- their return policy is bomb proof. Buy with confidence |
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http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/544583_Trigger_work_.html
Look a couple posts down on the 1st page where there is a picture tutorial...Makes the stock trigger really sweet!..My brothers works just about as good as my Mega Arms trigger which is just about the same principle... |
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I have the fire control group. Go with the red/yellow combo for a 308. how do you like it? I have the JP trigger in both my LR308 and my parts kit AR15. The DPMS came with the JP installed and was the reason I went that way when I replaced the mil spec junk in my parts gun. I have run some surplus 7.62 in the DPMS and it all fired with the red hammer and yellow trigger spring combo. Current setup in the .308 is the JP trigger with JP speed hammer and anti walk pins. Feels more like my bolt gun triggers with very little creep or over travel. |
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I have the fire control group. Go with the red/yellow combo for a 308. how do you like it? I have the JP trigger in both my LR308 and my parts kit AR15. The DPMS came with the JP installed and was the reason I went that way when I replaced the mil spec junk in my parts gun. I have run some surplus 7.62 in the DPMS and it all fired with the red hammer and yellow trigger spring combo. Current setup in the .308 is the JP trigger with JP speed hammer and anti walk pins. Feels more like my bolt gun triggers with very little creep or over travel. I love it! Clean, crisp break. The 3.8# feels like a 2.5#. I installed it myself. I was able to set it up/adjust it the way I like it. Same set up as rebelwolf. Same reason for the 'red' hammer spring. So, I can shoot mil-spec primers. The bad - The anti-walk pins didn't fit in my Mega lower. But, my OEM pins work fine. I just has to use a 'D' spring on the hammer. |
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Another JP trigger lover here. The springs themselves will make a mil-spec trigger a little nicer by making the pull lighter. I use yellow/red combo. No issues with cheap and surplus ammo.
The JP fcg is amazing if you take your time and tune it just right. If you tuned it right (which isn't hard, just follow the DVD) there should be absolutely no creep and you can set how much over-travel you want. I don't see any need to go with less than the yellow/red combo - should be around 4-4.5# and I can shoot sub MOA all day long with decent ammo. ETA - I have a Timney, the JP is way better. |
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Another JP trigger lover here. The springs themselves will make a mil-spec trigger a little nicer by making the pull lighter. I use yellow/red combo. No issues with cheap and surplus ammo. The JP fcg is amazing if you take your time and tune it just right. If you tuned it right (which isn't hard, just follow the DVD) there should be absolutely no creep and you can set how much over-travel you want. I don't see any need to go with less than the yellow/red combo - should be around 4-4.5# and I can shoot sub MOA all day long with decent ammo. ETA - I have a Timney, the JP is way better. Do any of you all think I will need to get larger pins for my lower. I would like to add that the Receiver is new I just bought my .308 in February so I personally don't think i will need them but would like to know anyway. |
| I wouldn't think you need larger pins. They may make the trigger a little smoother though. I believe KNS pins are little oversized and when I added them to a DPMS trigger it smoothed up a little. One other member here had the same happen but I don't know if this is common. I also has some finish wearing off when I did this so I had a good number of rounds through the gun. |
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Your pins will be fine as long as the hammer has the spring inside it to retain the hammer pin with tension.
Make sure you use the reddish-brown JP hammer spring, as the yellow one will not activate the primers on steel-cased ammo, especially in the .308 steel case. Also, you should polish the sear engagement surfaces of the trigger-to-hammer interface using a cotton buffing wheel and a very mild polishing agent. I have used everything from toothpaste to white jeweler's rouge, which is what I currently use. I don't change the geometry of the sear surfaces other than to polish them, removing any tool marks. This, combined with following JP's instructions will give you a great feeling trigger. |
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sweet so here is my worry where do I order this kit from im looking at JP and they want 20 dollars with shipping included who has it at the cheapest price
ETA: found it at a price I'm comfortable paying. How does on do this sear polishing you care to point me in the right direction I'm a bit new to this part of AR building. |
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MidwayUSA & Brownells have the spring kits now if I remember correctly. JP will work with you on shipping if you give them a call and request that they throw them in an envelope instead of shipping in a huge box via UPS.
On the trigger components, don't change the geometry of the hammer or the sear (i.e. don't file down any ridges or change any angles). Polishing hammers and sears where they contact each other with super super fine sandpaper (800 grit will work if you start it on other metal first, but 1000 grit is best) will help on cheap cast triggers. Don't take a lot off, but rather polish out any nicks or imperfections that will cause more friction. I would also have you add some heavy duty lubricant to prevent oxidation and help it smooth up. There is a member here (1DOCTOR) that used to sell the bolt that attaches your pistol grip that has another set screw in it to adjust the angle of the trigger to lighten it up. You might IM him and see if he still does. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_7_125/753778_.html This combo of JP springs and the set screw will get you pretty close to a target trigger, but it takes a little trial & error of putting the trigger in after an adjustment and testing it out the functions (check to see if your safety engages. |
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Midway has the springs for $9.29+shipping. Only problem is they only have either the 3 1/2 (yellow) or 4 1/2 (red) sets. You want the JP Reliability Enhanced Spring Kit (JPS3.5T) which is the red hammer/yellow trigger. Brownells has them but they are out of stock. As suggested in another post, call JP and see if they will work with you on shipping (I have found most places will do this)
On a side note: I have the 4 1/2 set (both red springs) and polished the FCG (no speed hammer) it feels great but still a lot of "creep". I have some time today so I'm gonna install the set screw and fix that. I also just cleaned off my desk and "found" a full 3 1/2 lb set under all my junk  .
For the trigger I use a fine wet stone, the kind you use for knifes. I use some fine emmory cloth, like a polishing nail file, for the hammer. [edit] As posted before THIS is the link to the trigger work. About 1/3 down you will see a post by kwrangln. He has a good picture step by step that you can follow. I have never cut down one of my hammers. That little "notch" on the bottom of the hammer, by the hammer pin hole, is the seer surface to polish along with the seer face on the trigger. As everyone has said, do not change the angle of ANYTHING and do not take off any more than it takes to polish the surfaces. One word of caution, you can adjust the trigger with the set screw and springs so that the trigger is SO light and quick it can (and has) surprise you when shooting. This is a BAD thing for a home defense gun. YMMV and my opinion only. |
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Have any of you who have done the set screw mod ever had it back out and tie up the trigger? I'm thinking that the set screw mod would be good on a target or varmint gun, but a potential failure on a home defense weapon. If the set screw ever "backs out" all that would happen is you would get the creep back into the trigger and it could only back out so far due to the grip screw. If on the other hand it were to turn into the trigger it could only bind up the safety. I don't see either of these happening because a) you are using loctite b) the forces exerted on the lower in this area are minimal and c) the set screw is, in my opinion, a bad idea for a home defense weapon. Why? Again in my opinion, a very sensitive trigger in a dangerous, nervous situation is not a good thing. I would think this mod is best left for the range or to a lessor extent hunting. If I am put in the situation of pulling the trigger on someone, I want it to be a deliberate pull. |
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Ok let me ask this what can i expect from just changing the springs alone no polishing of any sort since I honestly dont feel comfortable doing this. If you are lucky enough to have a stock trigger that doesn't feel like you are dragging it down a gravel road then the polishing steps are not necessary. My brother-in-law has a PSA trigger that is VERY smooth with nothing done to it except the springs and set screw. It gives a light smooth pull. Equal to my polishing that I had to do on my DMPS FCG. You can still see the cutting marks on his set but it is very smooth. If you do the set screw mod it will take out most of the "gravel" of the trigger because most of the creep is gone. MAKE SURE that everything passes function check afterwards. |
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Ok let me ask this what can i expect from just changing the springs alone no polishing of any sort since I honestly dont feel comfortable doing this. If you are lucky enough to have a stock trigger that doesn't feel like you are dragging it down a gravel road then the polishing steps are not necessary. My brother-in-law has a PSA trigger that is VERY smooth with nothing done to it except the springs and set screw. It gives a light smooth pull. Equal to my polishing that I had to do on my DMPS FCG. You can still see the cutting marks on his set but it is very smooth. If you do the set screw mod it will take out most of the "gravel" of the trigger because most of the creep is gone. MAKE SURE that everything passes function check afterwards. Just lighter which will feel much better if there is anything grittiness as the engagement surfaces are not pressed as hard against one another. |
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I got a 308ORC that had a crap trigger also; went with the Spike's Battle Trigger Nib coated. I tried the JP yellow & yellow. It would not fire either Hornady steel match or Monarch (Barnul) relaibly - 9 out of 10 for the Hornady & 7 for 10 on the Barnul. I put the red hammer spring in & all is well. I just ordered a couple more of both the triggers & spings; plan on going this route in all my lowers.
This past weekend - I just ordered the springs from Surplus Ammo & the triggers from JoeBobs - the setup runs around $ 75 each total. |
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I also recommend the JPS3.5T with red hammer and yellow trigger.
I did a trigger job on 1 ar with set screw mod to take up slack, yellow trigger spring and modified stock hammer spring an love the feel of the trigger. My 2nd trigger is cmmg 2 stage with red hammer and yellow trigger spring. |
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