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Posted: 5/12/2011 6:14:00 AM EDT
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Anyone know off the top of their head if the factory DPMS Panther 308 M4 stocks have commercial or mil spec tubes? I am not at home, and I think mine is a commercial tube. I need to make sure before I order the wrog stock.
THanks Vic |
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Commercial tube on the 308. We do offer the Mil tubes as an option but the dealer would need to special order it that way. *NOTE* we do add medium strength loctite to the castle nut during assembly if you are replacing stocks. WHY, WHY, WHY is there Loctite everywhere on these rifles? It is almost completely unnecessary. You should not ever need a torch to replace a stock. An appropriately tightened castle nut will not come loose from shooting. Neither will gas block set screws, barrel nuts, handguards, or anything else on this rifle that's unnecessarily loaded with Loctite. |
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We use medium loctite on 4 parts of the rifle...
1. Castle nut on the extension tube because we do not stake the nut, this is a widely acceptable procedure. 2. DPMS free float tube, where it threads onto the barrel nut. 3. Rear sling swivel screw on A2 stocks. 4. Gas block set screws. Without it the screws will come loose over time creating a malfunction. We never apply loctite to the barrel nut. |
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Well, according to http://www.dpmsinc.com/support/faq.aspx, you DO use Loctite on the barrel nut.
My own experience tells me the same. There is really no way that there isn't some sort of threadlocker on there. |
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My LR 308 barrel nut was a freeking bear to take off but I didnt see any loctite on it. This, no loctite just normal tight  grow some muscles and quit your whining. i think what that is referring to us what the DPMS rep mentioned they use it where the handguard attaches to the barrel nut
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My LR 308 barrel nut was a freeking bear to take off but I didnt see any loctite on it. This, no loctite just normal tight grow some muscles and quit your whining. i think what that is referring to us what the DPMS rep mentioned they use it where the handguard attaches to the barrel nutMaybe on your rifle. I bored a hole in a 2" piece of iron to make my own barrel nut removal tool. The diameter of the barrel at that point is around 1 1/8", I think. With the hole bored, I then drilled some smaller holes to place 3/16" bolts in to turn the barrel nut itself. With four steel bolts securely in the holes of the barrel nut, I tried to turn a 36" piece of iron. The bolts sheared off before the nut budged. No way in hell was that tightened to 50 ft-lbs or anywhere near it. There was Loctite (red, I suspect) on there. I was a pretty good powerlifter in days gone by and I can still throw up 400 pounds on the bench. I can't break those barrel nuts without a torch and the overpriced wrench DPMS sells. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
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My LR 308 barrel nut was a freeking bear to take off but I didnt see any loctite on it. This, no loctite just normal tight grow some muscles and quit your whining. i think what that is referring to us what the DPMS rep mentioned they use it where the handguard attaches to the barrel nutMaybe on your rifle. I bored a hole in a 2" piece of iron to make my own barrel nut removal tool. The diameter of the barrel at that point is around 1 1/8", I think. With the hole bored, I then drilled some smaller holes to place 3/16" bolts in to turn the barrel nut itself. With four steel bolts securely in the holes of the barrel nut, I tried to turn a 36" piece of iron. The bolts sheared off before the nut budged. No way in hell was that tightened to 50 ft-lbs or anywhere near it. There was Loctite (red, I suspect) on there. I was a pretty good powerlifter in days gone by and I can still throw up 400 pounds on the bench. I can't break those barrel nuts without a torch and the overpriced wrench DPMS sells. That wrench is a must. I use it and some times will add a pipe to get more torque if need be but the only thing I've used a torch for was the set screws on the gas block. Amazing what can be done while using the proper tools for the job at hand 
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Yeah, yeah. I know I should use the right tools. The cheap bastard in me, though, wanted to try to use some scrap iron and bolts to fashion something that would work. I still think they designed the barrel nut just to sell that wrench.
Most of the time I used to spend trying to use my homemade wrenches (or strap wrenches, or pipe wrenches) to remove the barrel nut was spent simultaneously swearing or mentioning out loud the 20 other things they could've done to let you remove the barrel nut with the wrenches most of us have laying around. My gas block set screws had no Loctite, or at least nothing I couldn't break with a wrench. Those are pretty thin, too, so I'm guessing there just wasn't any there. In fact, neither of my DPMS rifles had any Loctite on the gas block set screws. |
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