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Posted: 8/25/2014 6:00:23 PM EDT
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I recently purchased a Aero 14.5 barrel with a government profile and •.750 gas block journal. I then purchased a Fortis Low Profile Gas Block which is also .750 and a .0785 gas port.
My question is now after the fact....are gas blocks made so that the hole always lines up with the gas port on the barrel because the block slides down the barrel over the hole and of course stops at the raised part of the barrel as seen in the pic.  " />
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Pretty much. The block will have an oversized hole. So if you slide it all the way down you should still get overlap. As I recall my buddies aero was not dimpled. A dimple makes it nice and easy to line up the set screw. Put you block and tube on. Plug your chamber. Blow into muzzle. Should get air flow from gas tube. Your friendly neighborhood internet Troll.
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Quoted:
Pretty much. The block will have an oversized hole. So if you slide it all the way down you should still get overlap. As I recall my buddies aero was not dimpled. A dimple makes it nice and easy to line up the set screw. Put you block and tube on. Plug your chamber. Blow into muzzle. Should get air flow from gas tube. Your friendly neighborhood internet Troll. Yeah...the barrel is not dimpled unfortunately. Does anyone recommend having it done? |
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Well me and my buddy dimple all our non dimpled barrels. Get your gas block clocked right. Then check it, and check it again. Then get it locked down absolutely securely start with a pilot dimple with block in place. Take it off and finish up. You just barely have to dimple it. You can also get a clamp on if you don't wanna mess with it. With a sharp bit you will have no trouble with the melonite finish. I have heard people make a huge deal out of dimpling melonite. I have never experienced it. Yes it is a bit a harder but it is not even remotely difficult with a good bit(s). If you are not comfortable, have it done! Stainless is way easy, be super careful if you ever dimple a stainless. Stuff is soft. EDIT: I have heard a lot of places on the net you could send it to will not drill on melonite. I have no experience with this. But just a side note to be aware of. |
| The gas block's rear set screw hole is drilled at the same time as the gas port hole, and to the same size. To check the gas block spacing simply remove the rear set screw slide the gas block on. Then rotate the gas block so it is upside down with the set screw hole centered over the gas port. Then check the distance from the gas block to the shoulder with a feeler guage. Dimpling is nice for added insurance but if you install the gas block with some loc-tite it should be fine. |
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The gas block's rear set screw hole is drilled at the same time as the gas port hole, and to the same size. To check the gas block spacing simply remove the rear set screw slide the gas block on. Then rotate the gas block so it is upside down with the set screw hole centered over the gas port. Then check the distance from the gas block to the shoulder with a feeler guage. Dimpling is nice for added insurance but if you install the gas block with some loc-tite it should be fine. Gas blocks get too hot for loc-tite (if referring to the brand name). Use Rocksett. |
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Rocksett is fine as well, but myself and many others use Loc-tite without issue. BCM uses red Loc-tite on all their complete uppers.
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Gas blocks get too hot for loc-tite (if referring to the brand name). Use Rocksett. Quoted:
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The gas block's rear set screw hole is drilled at the same time as the gas port hole, and to the same size. To check the gas block spacing simply remove the rear set screw slide the gas block on. Then rotate the gas block so it is upside down with the set screw hole centered over the gas port. Then check the distance from the gas block to the shoulder with a feeler guage. Dimpling is nice for added insurance but if you install the gas block with some loc-tite it should be fine. Gas blocks get too hot for loc-tite (if referring to the brand name). Use Rocksett. |
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Quoted: Gas blocks get too hot for loc-tite (if referring to the brand name). Use Rocksett. Quoted: Quoted: The gas block's rear set screw hole is drilled at the same time as the gas port hole, and to the same size. To check the gas block spacing simply remove the rear set screw slide the gas block on. Then rotate the gas block so it is upside down with the set screw hole centered over the gas port. Then check the distance from the gas block to the shoulder with a feeler guage. Dimpling is nice for added insurance but if you install the gas block with some loc-tite it should be fine. Gas blocks get too hot for loc-tite (if referring to the brand name). Use Rocksett. |
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Totally wrong. The loctite will stay plenty sticky enough to keep the screws from backing out. Now if you add a bunch of torque yea. The loctite will get gummy. But the torque needed is more than you can achieve with a carbine class or throwing a red hot barrel down your drive way. I have seen this printed many times over the years here before I even joined. Often wondered if people just reprint or if they tried it themselves. I have never accidentally backed a gas block screw out of a lo tired gas block. But I'm not a tier 1 operator either. Quoted:
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The gas block's rear set screw hole is drilled at the same time as the gas port hole, and to the same size. To check the gas block spacing simply remove the rear set screw slide the gas block on. Then rotate the gas block so it is upside down with the set screw hole centered over the gas port. Then check the distance from the gas block to the shoulder with a feeler guage. Dimpling is nice for added insurance but if you install the gas block with some loc-tite it should be fine. Gas blocks get too hot for loc-tite (if referring to the brand name). Use Rocksett. You use red LT (or other brand) with same specs. You're going to be hard pressed removing said item with allen wrench. |
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Ewetstone: I do not mean to hijack your thread but………..
Jim: you stated “…You're going to be hard pressed removing said item with allen wrench.” Sorry I got lost in the multiple quotes thing. Are you referring to red lock-tite or Rocksett being “hard pressed removing” ? Lug1: My info is not “just [a] reprint”. I have used Rocksett for a couple of years now and more importantly I have read the Material Sheet for both Rocksett and lock-tite. Rocksett is superior to lock-tite when it comes to heat resistance – in point of fact the application of heat is how you remove a threaded item that has red lock-tite on it. Rocksett only requires about 35 ft-lbs to get a threaded item to move, and if needed a 15 minute soak in heat water (about 210 F) will help loosen/dissolve the Rocksett. As always one needs to use the proper tool when unscrewing things. 
If red lock-tite is so good, then why does AAC use Rocksett to secure the flash hiders on their Upper Assemblies. 
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Quoted: Ewetstone: I do not mean to hijack your thread but……….. Jim: you stated "…You're going to be hard pressed removing said item with allen wrench.” Sorry I got lost in the multiple quotes thing. Are you referring to red lock-tite or Rocksett being "hard pressed removing” ? Lug1: My info is not "just [a] reprint”. I have used Rocksett for a couple of years now and more importantly I have read the Material Sheet for both Rocksett and lock-tite. Rocksett is superior to lock-tite when it comes to heat resistance – in point of fact the application of heat is how you remove a threaded item that has red lock-tite on it. Rocksett only requires about 35 ft-lbs to get a threaded item to move, and if needed a 15 minute soak in heat water (about 210 F) will help loosen/dissolve the Rocksett. As always one needs to use the proper tool when unscrewing things. If red lock-tite is so good, then why does AAC use Rocksett to secure the flash hiders on their Upper Assemblies.  Edit and for the record I am informed on the MSDS's. Now have you ever used loctite on a gas block yourself? Put it to practical use? |
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Lug1:
You stated “ …install the gas block with some loc-tite…” Now I see – you mean place lock-tite on the bearing surfaces (barrel and/or gas block). That truly is overkill – one should only apply thread locker to threads. Now I understand the “dipping” comment. You stated “…Now have you ever used loctite on a gas block yourself?” Again, one should only apply thread locker to threads. JBL would work even better than thread locker on the bearing surfaces (barrel and/or gas block).
And, no I have never used lock-tite on a gas block, only Rocksett on the threads of my properly fitting gas blocks. |
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Dammit man, I have never put loctite on the bearing surface only on the threads. And yes when the barrel heats up you can break the screw loose with a screwdriver with not too much elbow grease. But it still takes a little muscle and a screwdriver. Those screws aren't backing out on their own short of setting handguard on fire. Please enjoy your Rocksett. WALDT!! Loctite works too. Very well in my experience. |
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Quoted:
Ewetstone: I do not mean to hijack your thread but……….. Jim: you stated “…You're going to be hard pressed removing said item with allen wrench.” Sorry I got lost in the multiple quotes thing. Are you referring to red lock-tite or Rocksett being “hard pressed removing” ? Lug1: My info is not “just [a] reprint”. I have used Rocksett for a couple of years now and more importantly I have read the Material Sheet for both Rocksett and lock-tite. Rocksett is superior to lock-tite when it comes to heat resistance – in point of fact the application of heat is how you remove a threaded item that has red lock-tite on it. Rocksett only requires about 35 ft-lbs to get a threaded item to move, and if needed a 15 minute soak in heat water (about 210 F) will help loosen/dissolve the Rocksett. As always one needs to use the proper tool when unscrewing things.
If red lock-tite is so good, then why does AAC use Rocksett to secure the flash hiders on their Upper Assemblies.
Red LT. While it might become pliable under duress / mag dumps. You're not going to see a socket head screw backing out of the gas block. I said hard pressed because once you put the rifle, or upper (your choice) in the vice, using correct block. The socket head isn't going to spin out like it's hand tight. There will be some oomph needed to take them out. Keeping in mind some folks can torque barrel nuts by hand or so it seems by some of the threads i've read.
You want to use rockset, by all means do so. I prefer something to secure the hardware, while being able to remove with hand tools, as needed. Fortunately we agree to disagree w/out it turning in to a pissing match. |
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