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Posted: 6/9/2014 5:13:01 PM EDT
| Are there any smiths who will cut out a section of the handguard to shorten it? Im wanting to do a 6.5ish inch 300blk build and will need a rail cut down but am having a hard time finding a company who will do it. Any suggestions for companies to contact? |
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cut a section out and re-attach a section ? Basically taking a 9" rail and taking approximately 3" out of the middle. Due to the end of the rail being flat the difference in length that I need will need to be taken out of the middle. Kinda like sectioning the long bed of a truck to make it a short bed, or chopping the top of a car to lower the roof. I plan to use the new aero mlock rail due to the cuts in the rail s being straight rather than the keymod so it shouldn't be too noticeable. I would just tuck the can but Im using liberty's prototype chaotic that is 2" in diameter so the whole goal is to get the package as short as possible rather than use one of my longer cans tucked under the rail which would obviously be easier. |
Excuse my terrible MS paint skills and terrible word description of what I want done. Basically cut the section out between the two red lines and weld the barrel nut end and the muzzle end together to shorten the over all length down to wherever that ends up which should be 6ish inches. Ill get the barrel cut to match whatever length rail ends up being. I just want the barrel to end up being less than 7".
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Excuse my terrible MS paint skills and terrible word description of what I want done. Basically cut the section out between the two red lines and weld the barrel nut end and the muzzle end together to shorten the over all length down to wherever that ends up which should be 6ish inches. Ill get the barrel cut to match whatever length rail ends up being. I just want the barrel to end up being less than 7". <a href="http://s23.photobucket.com/user/1slow01z71/media/MLOKmodified_zps75fa46de.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b368/1slow01z71/MLOKmodified_zps75fa46de.jpg</a> Why would you need to remove a section and re-attach the end piece? A lot of rails are the same all the way out to the end (including the one you have pictured), so a hack saw, file, and some sanding would produce the results you're looking for. Trying to re-attach the end would be both pointless and expensive. It wouldn't likely just weld back together, you'd probably need support pieces that would link the back to the front, which adds weight, time, and money for someone to do it. In fact, I have a feeling that nobody would actually do it since just cutting it off would produce the actual results you're looking for. |
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Why would you need to remove a section and re-attach the end piece? A lot of rails are the same all the way out to the end (including the one you have pictured), so a hack saw, file, and some sanding would produce the results you're looking for. Trying to re-attach the end would be both pointless and expensive. It wouldn't likely just weld back together, you'd probably need support pieces that would link the back to the front, which adds weight, time, and money for someone to do it. In fact, I have a feeling that nobody would actually do it since just cutting it off would produce the actual results you're looking for. Quoted:
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Excuse my terrible MS paint skills and terrible word description of what I want done. Basically cut the section out between the two red lines and weld the barrel nut end and the muzzle end together to shorten the over all length down to wherever that ends up which should be 6ish inches. Ill get the barrel cut to match whatever length rail ends up being. I just want the barrel to end up being less than 7". <a href="http://s23.photobucket.com/user/1slow01z71/media/MLOKmodified_zps75fa46de.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b368/1slow01z71/MLOKmodified_zps75fa46de.jpg</a> Why would you need to remove a section and re-attach the end piece? A lot of rails are the same all the way out to the end (including the one you have pictured), so a hack saw, file, and some sanding would produce the results you're looking for. Trying to re-attach the end would be both pointless and expensive. It wouldn't likely just weld back together, you'd probably need support pieces that would link the back to the front, which adds weight, time, and money for someone to do it. In fact, I have a feeling that nobody would actually do it since just cutting it off would produce the actual results you're looking for. You didn't actually look at the rail did you? None of the slots actually end at the same spot except at the very end so yes it will have to be sectioned. Anyone with good tig skills and a fine stone chop saw could do this. Its very common in the race car world to section runners on intake manifolds. No support pieces would be needed as a weld is stronger than the actual material it is welded to. The hardest part for someone doing this would be to get the heat just right while walking the cup but theyd have the center section to practice on to dial in their peddle and rod feed. If my tig skills were better Id do it myself but Im not a professional welder and don't do it all day like some of the good smiths on this forum. |
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Cut it between the second and third oval holes on the side. Done. Cutting out a section of aluminum and welding it back together is not the same as welding manifold steel. For the cost of a rail plus this service, you might just have someone CAD a design and then CNC you a special rail. A lot of effort and money just for a handguard in my opinion though.
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move it forward a slot and you may be able to make it an easy job. the slots all line up there. Yeah it shouldnt be more than a 20 minute job for someone qho has better tig skills than me. Ill probably end up getting a local guy who does a lot of race car stuff to do it for me. Just figured there might be a smith that could do it and the barrel chop at the same time. |
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Dont you think I wouldve bought a rail if there was one made in mlok or keymod thats 6" or shorter? Quoted:
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Sell the rail, buy a new one of the proper length. Will be a shit load cheaper. Dont you think I wouldve bought a rail if there was one made in mlok or keymod thats 6" or shorter? Sorry bud, I don't think you're gonna find one for a barrel that short nor do I think it will be economically conscious to do what you're wanting to do. If I were you I'd go 1'' longer on the barrel or use a muzzle device that will clear the 1'' extra of the standard carbine length rail. |
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Sorry bud, I don't think you're gonna find one for a barrel that short nor do I think it will be economically conscious to do what you're wanting to do. If I were you I'd go 1'' longer on the barrel or use a muzzle device that will clear the 1'' extra of the standard carbine length rail. Quoted:
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Sell the rail, buy a new one of the proper length. Will be a shit load cheaper. Dont you think I wouldve bought a rail if there was one made in mlok or keymod thats 6" or shorter? Sorry bud, I don't think you're gonna find one for a barrel that short nor do I think it will be economically conscious to do what you're wanting to do. If I were you I'd go 1'' longer on the barrel or use a muzzle device that will clear the 1'' extra of the standard carbine length rail. Again I'm using a 2" diameter silencer on the end so another muzzle device isnt an option. Cost isnt much of a concern as I cant see this costing more than 100 or so to be done. That would put me at less than a geissele rail so its really not that expensive. Ive already got a 9" 300blk and will be getting liberty to build me an 8" leonidas as well. The whole point of this build is a very light and short suppressed package. If I cant a get a sub 7" barrel theres really no point to the build. This can be done easily by someone with good tig welding skills, its just finding someone who is willing to do it. |
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If you're going to use a suppressor anyway, why not skip the hassle and just get a 7'' rail?
I don't think your project is going to be as easy as you think. Keeping the picatinny rail in spec, making everything line up properly and look halfway decent. Plus the cost of re finishing. ETA just saw the 2'' suppressor. That's a huge can 
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If you're going to use a suppressor anyway, why not skip the hassle and just get a 7'' rail? I don't think your project is going to be as easy as you think. Keeping the picatinny rail in spec, making everything line up properly and look halfway decent. Plus the cost of re finishing. ETA just saw the 2'' suppressor. That's a huge can Shouldnt be too bad to keep everyrhing lined up. It doesnt have to be accurate to the thousandth of an inch, just as long as it visual looks good I dont care. The only thing that might get mounted on the rail is a light. Clamping the two sections together with a scope mount while its welded should be more than adequate to hold it together and lined up right. The can is the original prototype liberty made for the chaotic so its made out of all aluminum. 6"x2" and only 12oz should make for decent suppresion in a short and light package. Once its all together I'll be going with silencer shop to db meter it against their demo chaotic and a couple of my other cans. |
| Ill try the cutting thing and see how it looks. Didn't notice that it looks like it might be flat faced between the second and third slots. I finally found the actual mlok spacing and it in fact will only be able to have two of the mlok slots and get me the right length which will end up at a 6" barrel length roughly. Should make for a fun combo. |
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