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Posted: 5/23/2011 3:56:58 AM EDT
| I'm looking for Free Float Handguards for my Bushy. I saw the YHM Lightweights, I've also seen others like Daniel Defense (pricey) and others. The YHM lightweights seem to fragile. Should I get end caps? I'll admit I don't know a lot about who or what is quality for the price. What do you guys think? |
| The Wife runs that set up on her comp carbine. YHM's light weight forearm is a solid piece of equipment. Doesn't seem fragile at all. The end cap add a nice touch. You shouldn't have a problem under normal use. If you're an LEO using a patrol gun, you might go another way, otherwise GTG. |
| im running the yhm lite weights on my 458 socom and they seem to hold up well to being dragged about the woods , rattling around in the back of a utv and me beating and banging them around climbing in and out of a deer stand. not to mention a 36 inch fall off a shooting bench onto a concrete pad thanks to some bozo with a giant rifle case knocking it off when he walked by. |
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USE? A simple DPMS tube will free float the barrel for about 60 bucks. +1. You need to spell out what you are trying to achieve with the FF tube. If the primary goal is accuracy improvement, competitive shooting or shooting off a bench/sandbag, then a simple FF tube for $40 will be entirely adequate. If instead you feel the compelling need to hang all sorts of junk essential tactical accessories off the rifle, then one of the more expensive rail systems may make more sense. Help us help you. |
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The Wife runs that set up on her comp carbine. YHM's light weight forearm is a solid piece of equipment. Doesn't seem fragile at all. The end cap add a nice touch. You shouldn't have a problem under normal use. If you're an LEO using a patrol gun, you might go another way, otherwise GTG. I use the YHM light weight rails on my patrol carbines and recommend them for that use. They are plenty rugged but aren't really heavy like the cheaper quad rails. They are, IMO, the best compromise between weight and price. You can save a few ounces with some much more expensive rails but it wasn't worth it to me. Just in the last two weeks I've installed a YHM, a Daniel Defense, and a Midwest Industries rail on duty rifles. The DD was definitely the most refined piece and the YHM and MI were comparable in quality, but it is just a rail after all. It just needs to free float the barrel, hold whatever is clamped to it, not come loose, and not break. |
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According to Stealthy Blagga I need to define my use of the rifle for this question, so here goes.
I am trying to build a reasonably priced Mark 12. I already have a heavy barreled Bushy with a Mark AR Leupold scope and am looking to upgrade my handguard to free floated so I can attach a bipod. No it isn't a Mark 12 with all the best of everything, but it won't cost me 5 to 6 grand either. |
| YHM makes a nice rifle length FF forearm that has 3" rails at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. easy to mount a bipod and still gives an uninterrupted top rail. |
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According to Stealthy Blagga I need to define my use of the rifle for this question, so here goes. I am trying to build a reasonably priced Mark 12. I already have a heavy barreled Bushy with a Mark AR Leupold scope and am looking to upgrade my handguard to free floated so I can attach a bipod. No it isn't a Mark 12 with all the best of everything, but it won't cost me 5 to 6 grand either. To attach a bipod all you need is a uncle mikes sling stud cost 10 bucks added to a round free float tube. Most Cost effective approach. After that you are just going for looks. |
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I own two YHM rails the solid 4 rail and the add-on round one but my Troy blows them both away. By the time you buy the wrench its a wash on price since Troy furnishes one. http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb449/Snafu-Ken/dsc26_large.jpg What specifically is better about the Troy? Stronger, lighter, better finish? Just curious. |
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According to Stealthy Blagga I need to define my use of the rifle for this question, so here goes. I am trying to build a reasonably priced Mark 12. I already have a heavy barreled Bushy with a Mark AR Leupold scope and am looking to upgrade my handguard to free floated so I can attach a bipod. No it isn't a Mark 12 with all the best of everything, but it won't cost me 5 to 6 grand either. To attach a bipod all you need is a uncle mikes sling stud cost 10 bucks added to a round free float tube. Most Cost effective approach. After that you are just going for looks. +1. Get a plain vanilla free-float tube for $40 and add a sling swivel stud for another $10. A standard Harris bipod will clip right on rock solid. A Picatinny rail handguard is not necessary for installing a bipod. Example: 
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I own two YHM rails the solid 4 rail and the add-on round one but my Troy blows them both away. By the time you buy the wrench its a wash on price since Troy furnishes one. http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb449/Snafu-Ken/dsc26_large.jpg What specifically is better about the Troy? Stronger, lighter, better finish? Just curious. Not much experience with the YHM rails myself, but the Troy TRX Extreme rail is extremely light weight with a small outside diameter. It's made of one piece of aluminum, so it's very strong and light weight. Troy also makes a version for Viking Tactics with oval cuts for less of a grating feel on bare hands. Given that the rail itself clamps onto the barrel nut, it's theoretically stronger that many competing designs, despite being one of the lightest rails on the market. It's extremely small outside diameter also makes it very ergonomic... and its simple design means less machine time, which also means less cost. As for the OP, you might also want to consider a Centurion Arms free float rail system, as it clamps onto the stock barrel nut, is lightweight, has a sturdy design, and machined in QD sockets. The Daniel Defense LITE rail is the lightest rail in the business, but it costs accordingly. When it comes to free float rails, you have to determine your needs and wants. Quad rails generally cost more as 4 panels of rails take a lot of machine time to produce. Simple tubes are cheap because they don't require quite as much machining. Choose 2 out of these 3: 1. Cost 2. Features 3. Lightweight. I prefer to roll with "Lightweight" and "Features" |
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According to Stealthy Blagga I need to define my use of the rifle for this question, so here goes. I am trying to build a reasonably priced Mark 12. I already have a heavy barreled Bushy with a Mark AR Leupold scope and am looking to upgrade my handguard to free floated so I can attach a bipod. No it isn't a Mark 12 with all the best of everything, but it won't cost me 5 to 6 grand either. To attach a bipod all you need is a uncle mikes sling stud cost 10 bucks added to a round free float tube. Most Cost effective approach. After that you are just going for looks. +1. Get a plain vanilla free-float tube for $40 and add a sling swivel stud for another $10. A standard Harris bipod will clip right on rock solid. A Picatinny rail handguard is not necessary for installing a bipod. Example: http://www.uzitalk.com/stug/ar15side.jpg How did you attach the swivel. Just a drill and tap or did you use a backing plate? If so, can you provide some details. |
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Shilling? |
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I LOL'd |
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I own two YHM rails the solid 4 rail and the add-on round one but my Troy blows them both away. By the time you buy the wrench its a wash on price since Troy furnishes one. http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb449/Snafu-Ken/dsc26_large.jpg That photo looks really familiar 
http://www.weaponoutfitters.com/products/vtac-extreme-battlerail-13 |
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