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Posted: 1/23/2011 7:27:28 PM EDT
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Hey guys,
Quick question for the DIY crowd.. I had a gunsmith originally install my 13" VTAC Extreme BattleRail and now I want to send it away for Duracoating. Can I remove the rail without specialized tools and without needing to re-zero my optic? |
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All you should need is an Allen wrench. There are two screws on the underside, just loosen those. Turn the rail left or right about 1/8" and slide it forward. Some people have problems with the Heli-coils backing out of the aluminum but there really isn't any way to prevent it. If Loc-tite wasn't put on the bolts when it was installed you will probably have a better chance of taking it apart without disturbing the Heli-coils. You should definitely recheck zero after you reinstall. It may shift slightly but the way it mounts it will probably be minimal if any at all.
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Quoted:
Hey guys, Quick question for the DIY crowd.. I had a gunsmith originally install my 13" VTAC Extreme BattleRail and now I want to send it away for Duracoating. Can I remove the rail without specialized tools and without needing to re-zero my optic? Sir sir sir, please no. It is so incredibly easy to do, why would you send in for this? There are bunches of youtube videos with detailed instructions, its really a gravy job. An airbrush will probably cost less than your shipping alone. You need to make sure your next AR is assembled completely from scratch by you. It really is not a difficult job, and well worth it for the intimate working knowledge of your own built to suit rifle you will gain. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Hey guys, Quick question for the DIY crowd.. I had a gunsmith originally install my 13" VTAC Extreme BattleRail and now I want to send it away for Duracoating. Can I remove the rail without specialized tools and without needing to re-zero my optic? Sir sir sir, please no. It is so incredibly easy to do, why would you send in for this? There are bunches of youtube videos with detailed instructions, its really a gravy job. An airbrush will probably cost less than your shipping alone. You need to make sure your next AR is assembled completely from scratch by you. It really is not a difficult job, and well worth it for the intimate working knowledge of your own built to suit rifle you will gain. +1 on this, just DC'd my AR with 11" TRX, single color coyote brown on all major pieces except the barrel. I did everything un-assembled so all my trigger pins, bolt release, etc. are still black and it gives it a very professionally done look. It took me the better part of the morning, started around 10am and finished by 2pm just make sure you tape off the takedown pin holes, I forgot and had to sand the paint out to get it to even close with light tapping on the pins. There is no need for baking DC, I was able to carefully start assembling it about an hour after it was painted and it's cured enough to shoot after 24 hours. I've actually gotten a few more people to start building their own AR's because of easy it was and how well it turned out. The rifle looks like it was a $2k+ store bought piece but it was actually done in my garage and backyard for south of $1500 from pieces, so not only did I save money but now I know EVERY nut, bolt, clip and pin in the rifle was done right. |
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Thanks for the input, guys. I hadn't thought about doing it myself since I have no equipment or painting skills. I'll take a look for those YouTube videos on Duracoat DIY. Would you still recommend it if I wanted something more complicated like Urban Camo or Desert Marpat?
So, for the rail, undo the 2 allen screws and slight rotate and it should come right off? |
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Quoted: Thanks for the input, guys. I hadn't thought about doing it myself since I have no equipment or painting skills. I'll take a look for those YouTube videos on Duracoat DIY. Would you still recommend it if I wanted something more complicated like Urban Camo or Desert Marpat? So, for the rail, undo the 2 allen screws and slight rotate and it should come right off? Yup |
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Quoted:
The Troy Extreme is Teflon coated... I assume the VTAC is the same. Not sure if that requires any special prep before painting... I imagine that a little sandpaper or steelwool will do the trick. I would just brake clean the heck out of it. The finish is pretty rough as is, but I suppose sanding the outside might help with durability. I wouldn't worry about it in the groves though. |
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