AR Sponsor
Posted: 1/29/2010 4:00:02 PM EDT
|
... How the heck do you guys get CLP on your barrel to make sure it stays protected from rust if you have a rail on? I'm assuming you don't take the rail off every time you clean your gun. I was spraying CLP in there but it seems like a huge waste since 90% of it just drips off. Got the job done, I'm sure, but there must be a more efficient method that doesn't involve removing the rail... Maybe put CLP on Q-tips and spread it on? 
|
|
Forget CLP in this application, CLP is a lubricant and is petroleum based. What does oil do on water? Quick answer, it floats. For this application, use some good ole WD40. The WD stands for Water Displacement.
I've run guns through a dishwasher to get cosmoline off (works great by the way), when it's done, wipe it down to dry it as much as possible, hit every surface with WD40, and oil as appropriate, haven't had an issue yet. Living with gulf coast humidity I would have if this method didn't work. |
|
Quoted:
... How the heck do you guys get CLP on your barrel to make sure it stays protected from rust if you have a rail on? I'm assuming you don't take the rail off every time you clean your gun. I was spraying CLP in there but it seems like a huge waste since 90% of it just drips off. Got the job done, I'm sure, but there must be a more efficient method that doesn't involve removing the rail... Maybe put CLP on Q-tips and spread it on? I found the best way of applying CLP was getting the spray-can variant of it and dousing the barrel down at one end (either one), then setting the rifle up against a wall and standing it on the opposite end so that the CLP runs down to the opposite end. It's an oil, so it will work its way through all the nuts, bolts, etc. After you've let it sit for a few hours, turn the rifle on the other end and let the CLP fully run back down the opposite direction. Once that's done, a bottle of compressed air will blow off any excess CLP. Make sure you're wearing some old clothes you don't care about when blowing off the excess CLP, as it stains fabric. Avoid using any type of fibrous rags/q-tips/etc, as their fibers break off and cling to the barrel. One guy on these boards had his barrel spot-rust because some left-over fibers from Q-tips clung to his barrel and attracted moisture. Since reading that, I've avoided using anything with fibers. If you do get some on your barrel, the compressed air will make quick work of them. I'm sure the most effective method would be coating the barrel in KG Kote or similar, but since that's not always an option, this is a close second. Also, CLP is a cleaner, lubricant, and preservative (hence "CLP"). All you really need is the preservate (rust-preventative). The best known rust-preventative is a product called Eezox. If you can get your hands on that and use the same method above, it'll leave the barrel with less of a residue, as it doesn't have the added ingredients that aren't needed for the outside of the barrel. Hope that helps... |
|
Quoted: Douche it with CLP and let it drip off. If you are in a hurry blow it off with compresed air. Do not use WD-40. While it was considered good stuff 40 years ago, there are dozens of product out now that render it obsolete.  +1 WD40 is worthless at stopping rust. WD stands for "water displacement" and it does just that when you spray it on. But it dries and does nothing to stop rust. I do use it on hunting rifles if I'm out in the rain or snow. It will displace the moisture but the rifle will be torn down and properly cleaned and lubed after the season or soon after being wet. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
remind me again why I need to put CLP on a parkerized barrel, under a hand guard that never gets scratched? A parkerized finish is not rustproof. If left dry it will rust in the right (wrong) conditions. Copy. Would those right(wrong) conditions involve storage in a safe at less than 20% RH? Not being a smart ass...just really want to know. If that's the case, I need to buy some spray CLP and some cotton swabs. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
remind me again why I need to put CLP on a parkerized barrel, under a hand guard that never gets scratched? A parkerized finish is not rustproof. If left dry it will rust in the right (wrong) conditions. Copy. Would those right(wrong) conditions involve storage in a safe at less than 20% RH? Not being a smart ass...just really want to know. If that's the case, I need to buy some spray CLP and some cotton swabs. At 20% RH, no, it should be fine. However, unless you have a hygrometer, why take the chance? Just clean and oil your guns every 4-6 months, even if they haven't been used. |
|
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: remind me again why I need to put CLP on a parkerized barrel, under a hand guard that never gets scratched? A parkerized finish is not rustproof. If left dry it will rust in the right (wrong) conditions. Copy. Would those right(wrong) conditions involve storage in a safe at less than 20% RH? Not being a smart ass...just really want to know. If that's the case, I need to buy some spray CLP and some cotton swabs.  The pic is from a current thread here. Dry parkerizing on steel will rust. http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=480533 |
AR Sponsor