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Posted: 12/2/2006 2:59:13 PM EDT
| I am interested in getting a free float tude under my standard a2 handguards, are there different quality tubes or should I just forget it and go with thw YHM rifle length free float handguards and add the plastic rail covers to make it look slightly less modified. What im trying to do is to preserve the original lookk of the A2. So basically are the YHM ones durable? and are the tubes that go under the guards worth it? |
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The only ones that I am aware of that sound even remotely like what you describe are DCM setups, which AFAIK are NOT made by YHM. If all you want is the look then just order a DCM tube from somebody like Bushmaster. You'll have to use modified handguards. Why is the look so important? Unless you are shooting DCM matches, no they are not worth it. All you are doing is adding weight for no real benefit. If you want A2, stay A2. If you want feefloat, get freefloat. |
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http://www.compasslake.com/float_tube.htm |
made it hot www.compasslake.com/float_tube.htm |
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"Why is the look so important? Unless you are shooting DCM matches, no they are not worth it. All you are doing is adding weight for no real benefit. If you want A2, stay A2. If you want feefloat, get freefloat." Can you explain why no benefit unless you shooting DCM? |
For the money, you would be better off using a regular freefloat tube that is going to end up being lighter. Depending on if you get the railed or non-railed version, you could add some utility. With the DCM float tubes, you add weight (it is steel, not aluminum), get no rails, have to use a wrench that will fit around the barrel nut/float tube combination, modify the handguards (removing the heatshields and probably shaving the tabs), remove the original barrel nut, and the FSB. If you do any protracted firing, the tube can get pretty hot as there are no vent holes. Since it is steel, it is going to take a while to cool down as well. And remember, there are no heatshields on your handguards anymore. A lot of hassle for a look. ETA: Oh yeah, unless you want TWO forward swivels, you're going to have to grind down the one on the FSB. |
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OP: Are you wanting a railed fore-end that uses panel covers like the KAC, MagPul, or Tango Down? Or are you wanting the freefloat tube that uses A2 handguards? From your original post it is hard to determine which one you want, you describe both. The YHM ones are OK, and they have recently added a mechanical stop to prevent backoff. You might have problems with them being to spec on the rails. If you are not going to attach anything, that won't be an issue. You may or may not have a problem with the covers, depending on which one you use. Personally, I would recommend going with MI, KAC, or similar rails as the next step up. PRI, LaRue, DD would be a little higher. How much real return on your money you would get for using these would be up to you with those. I've already posted my take on the DCM type float tube. |
| I noticed the swivel problemb but was not aware of the added weight and heat shield removal. I just want it to look like a normal rifle, I dont really like the tricked out look of railed handguards. Although it seems that I will be going to get a set of ff alluminum YHM and add rail covers. Anyone have a pic of a 20" A2 with an A2 stock with this setup? And thanks for all the input! |
Yes, the DCM style tubes are steel, they are not vented, and the heat shields are removed from the handguards. The handguards will need to be slightly modified, but nothing that can't be accomplished in a minute or two with a Dremel. I think you're overstating the heat concerns as I've never had a single problem with mine even after running several strings of fire during ITT practice ( usually 28-30rds in 50 second target exposures ). As for removal of the barrel nut and FSB, you'll need to take them off anyway if you install a rail type FF tube and you'll most likely need a wrench as well to put on the threaded barrel nut used by the FF tube. As for the original poster's question, for the money the best DCM style tube is the one by White Oak Armament... |
I'm not saying any one part of that is particularly hard; I'm not even saying that you WILL have heat probs, just that you might. But for the sake of a look, that all adds up. There's a lot of stuff going on/being modified that does not add any utility but does add weight for cosmetic purposes. If he really wants to just go for the look fine; but since he asked about more conventional float tubes I think they would be a better way to go.
Ummm, no. there are several two piece free floats. Like the one in the pic.
I never said a wrench wouldn't be needed. And BTW, again for the float tube I pictured, you don't need a wrench. What I was saying is that for the CLE tube that was linked you DO need a wrench that has a wide enough opening for the tube. It won't fit a standard GI wrench without modification. The YHM unit will take a standard GI wrench. |
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Here's an even wackier setup... DCM style freefloat tube fitted inside A1 handguards.  This was used to make a "sleeper" rifle. Rifle looks like a plain-jane A1 from the outside if you don't catch the 0.750" front sight base and heavier barrel. Has a 1:8" twist Shilen chromoly match grade barrel. Shoots itty bitty groups. |
Sorry, I'm not doing any more of those FFA1 handguards. I did that one, mostly to see IF it could be done. Now I know it can be done and that I DON'T ever want to do another. Get yourself a die grinder and go to town. |
Not sure why, but I think that is way cool 
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