Quoted:It’s called bobbing the hammer. When you put a light hammer spring, you have to bob the spur off. A bobbed hammer weights 0.8 ounces and a factory hammer weighs 1.1 ounces.
With a factory hammer, you need a heavy spring to move that weight. If you install a light hammer spring, it cannot move the heavy hammer fast enough which will cause light primer strikes.
With a bobbed hammer, removing the spur removes weight and when paired with a lightweight hammer spring, it moves at a fast enough speed to give reliable primer strikes. The only downfall is you cannot use old ammo with hard primers like that old Russian stuff. All modern American made brass cases ammo such as fiocchi and even lake city works every time.
The take up screw, well you install it like the instructions say. You tighten the grip screw all the way down and then use the long supplied Allen wrench and screw that all the way in until it stops moving the trigger bow. Then back off a 1/4 turn because if you don’t, you won’t be able to move you safety selectors. Once that is in its proper place, you will find that the amount of pull required to get the hammer to release is about 1/8th of an inch versus a full 1/4 inch.
Bobbing the hammer, installing the take up screw with light trigger and hammer springs and polishing the contact points causes a heavy trigger pull of 7 pounds to become 3 pounds that is 100% reliable. I do it to all of my ar15’s and I’ve helped friends do it as well.
JP enterprises who makes ar15 trigger springs sells pre-bobbed hammers. They call them speed hammers.
It takes about 30-45 minutes between everything and per trigger cost is about $15.
Here is a picture of a bobbed hammer. You can do the same with a few minutes and an angle grinder. You just have to make sure you cut it correct and have it even. You don’t want it uneven as weight distribution when smacking the firing pin doesn’t work.
https://cdn-fsly.yottaa.net/53ff2f503c881650e20004fa/www.brownells.com/v~4b.b5/userdocs/products/p_452015100_1.jpg?yocs=l_