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Posted: 10/12/2018 10:21:03 PM EDT
[#1]
I used to be like you. Then I stopped caring.
Realize every part is replaceable, and easily so. Besides once it's all worn out it'll look better than new. |
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Posted: 10/12/2018 10:29:19 PM EDT
[#2]
What rubbed up against the barrel? What are the chances it's the foreign object rubbed onto the barrel finish and not the finish coming off the barrel?
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Posted: 10/12/2018 10:38:30 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sharpie marker  |
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Posted: 10/12/2018 11:46:15 PM EDT
[#4]
The easiest solution is a Sharpie and some CLP, like everyone else has stated. If you want a slightly better touch-up I'd recommend some of this based on personal use:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/liquid-cold-bluing-chemicals/formula-44-40-instant-gun-blue-prod1112.aspx |
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Posted: 10/13/2018 2:45:36 AM EDT
[#5]
People who actually use their rifles will get dings and scratches and they don’t care because they actually use them....
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Posted: 10/13/2018 7:13:47 PM EDT
[#6]
Academy should have some Perma Blue in bottles. Stuff lasts forever.
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Posted: 10/14/2018 7:29:05 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have already put the CLP on it. If I find a way to touch up parkerized barrels I'll come share it. |
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Posted: 10/14/2018 10:11:59 AM EDT
[#8]
Actually use it and stop caring.
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Posted: 10/14/2018 10:12:51 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I need to give a couple days and see how I feel about it. I was pretty pissed. Now that I know how easily it scratches I know there's going to be many more. I have a 25 year old Colt and that finish does not scratch like this new one. |
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Posted: 10/14/2018 10:23:28 AM EDT
[#10]
Basic Colts aren't collector or show guns so it's really not that big of a deal IMO. With that said, I actually fuged up my new 20" Colt barrel and made multiple small marks in the finish. I've used this paint on my Saiga 12 barrel in the past and it turned out great so I used it on my 20" Colt last week too.
Its important to properly clean the barrel, tape off the barrel extension, gas block journal and threaded muzzle. After its painted and air dries I cooked it in the oven for 15 minutes at 375° to help harden the paint, then i threw a Tombstone the oven . I'm sure there is better stuff available but it's what I had and now the barrel color matches the handguard and receiver much better than it did originally anyway. 
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Posted: 10/14/2018 11:00:04 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The darker color bluing is Formula 44/40. Oxfo blue is not as dark. Get it from Brownells. kwg Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just use a Cold Blue. Try and pick one that says it is dark black. Lots of them (Birchwood Casey, for example) will just turn some steel light blue, which sucks. This is the one I use and I love it. It turns it black almost instantly. Dark black. Sometimes it takes a few wipes with a cue-tip, but it always works on any type of steel, and it never takes more than a few seconds. It’s great stuff and worth the extra coin. https://www.amazon.com/Kleen-Bore-Black-Magic-2OZ-60ML/dp/B0000C51WN kwg Dab a cue tip in it, rub it on the spot, then wipe with a wet towel or cue tip to inspect. Repeat until it matches. I’ve been using this for the last couple years on dozens of AK magazines, practically every gun barrel I own (including a Colt 6920 barrel), and a lot of AK’s, all with perfect results. Just note that this is for STEEL, and won’t work on aluminum parts, that requires an anodizer. I really can’t imagine a better product than this. It is fast, easy, and produces excellent results. Maybe there is another Oxpho that works as well, but I wouldn’t trust them after already being suckered into their false advertising on one product. |
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Posted: 10/14/2018 11:22:58 AM EDT
[#12]
You said it was something plastic that caused this? If so, it could just be that the plastic rubbed off on the barrel. Try some oil and a nylon brush and scrub it.
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Posted: 10/14/2018 11:31:46 AM EDT
[#13]
It's a Colt, you certain it didn't come from the factory that way?
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Posted: 10/14/2018 12:51:47 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You could try some Aluminum Black. but it still might oxidize slightly to make it less noticeable. I use the aluminum black pretty often on the deflector and upper/lower receivers when they get dinged up. I use it all the time |
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Posted: 10/14/2018 5:21:52 PM EDT
[#15]
The above advice to use Brownell's Dicrophan T4 is the best answer.
Dicrophan gives a BLACK color not blue. It also seems to be the most durable cold blue around, and I've tried them all over the years. Unlike most cold blues T4 can be applied over and over without beading up. Just clean the metal really well with something like Acetone, which leaves no residue at all. Then spray it with 91% alcohol or denatured alcohol. Warm the metal with a hair dryer to dry and warm the metal and apply the T4 with a Q-tip. Rinse it off, use the alcohol and hair dryer again and reapply a time or two. The metal will turn a flat black which blends in well with parkerizing and even most blue finishes. It's just great on sights due to the black color. |
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Posted: 10/14/2018 10:00:11 PM EDT
[#16]
Ah hell, unless it messes with function (obviously this won’t) I quit caring about scuffs. Gives it character, and makes it look like you actually use it every so often. Hit the high points with some steel wool and toss it down your driveway a few times for some accelerated character.
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Posted: 10/18/2018 1:28:17 PM EDT
[#17]
Just tell people that it's battle damage!
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Posted: 10/18/2018 7:49:19 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I knew better than to ask this in GD or something, but I thought AR15 forum wouldn't be chock full of assholes. |
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Posted: 10/18/2018 8:40:53 PM EDT
[#19]
Just shoot it. You shouldn’t really care that much.
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Posted: 10/19/2018 3:09:31 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yeah, we are the ones with the problem. Not OCD klutz who made a thread with obvious predictable responses instead of doing a one minute google to find the fix. |
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Posted: 10/19/2018 4:26:04 PM EDT
[#21]
You just put your signature on it. I wouldn't think twice about that. Well maybe a few times but it's no biggie. If you use it, it's going to get some dings and scratches. So you started them earlier than you wanted while not shooting. Oh well.
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Posted: 10/19/2018 4:43:42 PM EDT
[#22]
Because of all the “BS get over it” posts I have not read everything. Question, how did you scratch it? The reason I ask is that the blemishes look more like aluminum “painting” rather than true scratches. I dragged a barrel across the aluminum edge of a gun case and put a two inch “scratch” on it that looked very similar in color. The aluminum marked the phosphate finish, painting it, not really scratching the barrel. CLP and a ton of rubbing with a cloth finally removed it. In retrospect, I wonder if I had applied a little Aluma-Black to it if it would have darkened/removed it a lot easier. If you put a piece of raw aluminum in Aluma-Black, it will bubble and smoke, as it oxidizes, or whatever it does, the aluminum. I wonder if a little AB on a Q-tip applied to those marks might remove them in nothing flat. AB will not hurt a phosphare finished barrel unless you leave it on a long time, and maybe not even then. Worth a try?
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Posted: 10/19/2018 6:12:20 PM EDT
[#23]
Birchwood Casey flat black touch up pen. If it's too dark, scuff it slightly with fine steel wool after it dries.
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Posted: 10/19/2018 6:13:20 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: it will work, just remove the oil prior. I use it all the time |
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Posted: 10/19/2018 6:48:09 PM EDT
[#25]
I use an at home blueing kit on the weld of flash hider pin/welds. It doesn't match parkerizing perfectly of course, but it does match a whole hell of a lot closer than raw steel color, and brings back some corrosion protection.
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Posted: 10/19/2018 7:12:23 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Because of all the “BS get over it” posts I have not read everything. Question, how did you scratch it? The reason I ask is that the blemishes look more like aluminum “painting” rather than true scratches. I dragged a barrel across the aluminum edge of a gun case and put a two inch “scratch” on it that looked very similar in color. The aluminum marked the phosphate finish, painting it, not really scratching the barrel. CLP and a ton of rubbing with a cloth finally removed it. In retrospect, I wonder if I had applied a little Aluma-Black to it if it would have darkened/removed it a lot easier. If you put a piece of raw aluminum in Aluma-Black, it will bubble and smoke, as it oxidizes, or whatever it does, the aluminum. I wonder if a little AB on a Q-tip applied to those marks might remove them in nothing flat. AB will not hurt a phosphare finished barrel unless you leave it on a long time, and maybe not even then. Worth a try? I'm kinda over it now. I came here asking a question about how to touch up parkerizing but it wasn't worth all the BS. I'm pretty much done here but thanks for the tips. |
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Posted: 10/20/2018 7:53:22 PM EDT
[#27]
Other things are more important than that scratch..just shoot it...it is going to receive more scars as it more uses. If it help...use a black marker!
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Posted: 10/20/2018 11:16:49 PM EDT
[#28]
Shoot it until it looks like this
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Posted: 10/20/2018 11:28:48 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Shoot it until it looks like this
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/20856/IMG_1841_JPG-321165.jpg 
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Posted: 10/21/2018 10:12:52 AM EDT
[#30]
I used to be like that. That’s a lot of money to throw down on something, and you want to take care of it. I understand.
Once you really get the sickness, you won’t give a shit about the scratches and dings. Hell I get scratches like that just trying to pull something out of the safe. Shoot it, enjoy it, buy another. |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 10:17:30 AM EDT
[#31]
Is it a safe queen ?
Yes- Touch up with something and drive on No- Leave it alone and shoot/train repeat as often as your budget allows. If your really worried/bothered about that, you would have a heart attack if you saw how thrashed some military M4s are. 
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Posted: 10/21/2018 12:20:22 PM EDT
[#32]
Cover the barrel with a rail?......
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