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Posted: 4/8/2016 5:47:09 PM EDT
I have installed a YHM-9394 on a WOA 18" barrel, do I need the top and bottom mounts to be flush for it to work properly or will it be okay if there is a gap as it currently sits; is not flush.
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When you look at YHM's picture, you can see that the "holes" don't look circular where the two parts come together. That's because it's designed to have a gap - it allows for a small amount of variation in what the barrel maker calls "0.750 inch" barrel diameter.
The gap on both sides should be the same, though. Use a measuring tool of some kind to check the gaps. Having a substantial difference between the two sides may cant your sight. |
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Quoted:
When you look at YHM's picture, you can see that the "holes" don't look circular where the two parts come together. That's because it's designed to have a gap - it allows for a small amount of variation in what the barrel maker calls "0.750 inch" barrel diameter. The gap on both sides should be the same, though. Use a measuring tool of some kind to check the gaps. Having a substantial difference between the two sides may cant your sight. +1 They are not designed to be flush. If they were flush you would lose part of the clamping force. |
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Anyone else have advice with the pic added? The only advise I can give you is to watch those screws. Even with threadlocker they have come loose on each weapon I've seen (ones which are actually used). My department had to prohibit them from use on duty weapons. |
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Only that the gaps on the other side should be identical. I'll go not too far out on a limb and say that ALL the gaps should be identical, if everything is tightened appropriately. Quoted:
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Anyone else have advice with the pic added? Only that the gaps on the other side should be identical. I'll go not too far out on a limb and say that ALL the gaps should be identical, if everything is tightened appropriately. I agree. I will say don't get overzealous with tightening the screws up; they're shitty Chinese fasteners and will break easily. |
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The only advise I can give you is to watch those screws. Even with threadlocker they have come loose on each weapon I've seen (ones which are actually used). My department had to prohibit them from use on duty weapons. Quoted:
Quoted:
Anyone else have advice with the pic added? The only advise I can give you is to watch those screws. Even with threadlocker they have come loose on each weapon I've seen (ones which are actually used). My department had to prohibit them from use on duty weapons. I think the only way to avoid that is to use safety wire. Drilled cap screws aren't the problem here, it's teaching people how to work safety wire. 
It's not terribly hard to do, but it's not fun with small parts. |
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Looks like the YHM screws are #6 which is somewhat small imo. Is there enough meat there to drill and tap them out to the next size up? At the very least one could get screws of a known tensile strength such as the above McMaster-Carr offering if the YHM screws are no good.
Edit: There doesn't appear to be enough meat there to go up to #8 screws. |
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Looks like the YHM screws are #6 which is somewhat small imo. Is there enough meat there to drill and tap them out to the next size up? At the very least one could get screws of a known tensile strength such as the above McMaster-Carr offering if the YHM screws are no good. Edit: There doesn't appear to be enough meat there to go up to #8 screws. The screws only need to hold the clamps in place - there is no real load on them other than that. The only issue is if they loosen, thus my point about safety wire. The drilled screws I linked to are MADE for safety wire; the wire goes through the hole, and makes a "figure 8" to go through the hole in the other screw so that if one turns counterclockwise, the wire pulls the other tighter (and vise versa). The trick isn't figuring out the "figure 8" wire routing, it's getting the wire secured in a proper pigtail that holds it together but doesn't cause the rifle's user to bleed on a regular basis - that stuff is sharp! |
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