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Posted: 1/4/2015 4:27:49 AM EDT
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Hey I know this probably isn't the right place for this post, but there isn't really a general accessory discussion, it's all specific. Now for my question.
I recently purchased my first AR 15, and it's beautiful. However, I am now looking into accessories, such as optics, grips, lights, etc. Money is kind of tight, so I won't be able to buy everything at once. So I wanted to kind of make an accessory priority list and get your input on what accessories you guys think are most important for an AR. For example, someone might think an optic is more important than a flashlight, while someone might think a grip is more important than a laser. I don't know, I'm kinda new around here. Any input at all would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time. |
A grip is definitely higher on my list that a "laser". Out of a dozen rifles, I still don't have a laser on one 
The grip is the first thing I change, but I already know I hate the A2 grip after shooting thousands of rounds with one. Having said; as long as you are completely comfortable with your rifle, and have a thousand rounds through it, and 10 mags stacked up...start looking at a nice red dot, maybe. Save up for an Aimpoint PRO I always use my son as my example. He went 2 years with his bone stock rifle, and I just got him his first red dot and BCM grip for Christmas. 4000 rounds through the rifle before he got one new accessory. |
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What is the rifle for?
If its an HD/range gun: 1. Back up sights if it didn't come with any. 2. Mags/ammo/range fees/instruction needed for zero and base level of training. 3. Flashlight/mount. 4. Red dot (none of that cheap Chinese crap for HD). 5. Sling. 6. Trigger upgrade. 7. Charging handle upgrade. #1-4 are pretty much a requirement for HD in my opinion. 5-7 depends on personal preference developed over time. There is no limit to what you might want to change depending on what you learn as you shoot it more and more. If you are new to shooting, focus on shooting more, and gear less. |
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Making this list best quality for lowest price to suit your needs.
Optic- primary arms micro Weaponlight- Surefire M951 or Inforce WML Sling- just a regular ol 1 or 2 point. Dont need anything fancy. Grip- I like A2's for the clone factor, but the MIAD is my preferred A weaponlight is the most important accessory you can have if you already have a carry handle or BUIS. second would be optic, 3rd sling, 4th grip |
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A grip is definitely higher on my list that a "laser". Out of a dozen rifles, I still don't have a laser on one
The grip is the first thing I change, but I already know I hate the A2 grip after shooting thousands of rounds with one. Having said; as long as you are completely comfortable with your rifle, and have a thousand rounds through it, and 10 mags stacked up...start looking at a nice red dot, maybe. Save up for an Aimpoint PRO I always use my son as my example. He went 2 years with his bone stock rifle, and I just got him his first red dot and BCM grip for Christmas. 4000 rounds through the rifle before he got one new accessory. There's a difference between teaching a kid fundamentals at the range, and quickly advancing someone for defensive purposes. Waiting 2 years to buy a red dot, and not training with it, slows down HD effectiveness in the interim. I'm assuming OP is using the AR for HD. |
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I guess I should have given a little info about my rifle before posting this, I have a raptor arms ambidextrous charging handle(It was on sale don't hate me for buying that before anything else), Troy back up flip up iron sights, and its a free float quad rail system. The lower is polymer and the upper is metal which really bothers me for some reason.
EDIT: The rifle is for the range/HD. I'm a marine officer in training and I'm looking at infantry, so I thought I would pick up a rifle before I leave for TBS(The Basic School). |
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I guess I should have given a little info about my rifle before posting this, I have a raptor arms ambidextrous charging handle(It was on sale don't hate me for buying that before anything else), Troy back up flip up iron sights, and its a free float quad rail system. The lower is polymer and the upper is metal which really bothers me for some reason. EDIT: The rifle is for the range/HD. I'm a marine officer in training and I'm looking at infantry, so I thought I would pick up a rifle before I leave for TBS(The Basic School). Knowing that my suggestions are still the same. After you get all the accessories you want over time, pick up an anderson lower for $50 and you will have a fairly solid rifle. As long as you don't drop the rifle or do anything crazy your polymer lower should hold up ok tho |
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I guess I should have given a little info about my rifle before posting this, I have a raptor arms ambidextrous charging handle(It was on sale don't hate me for buying that before anything else), Troy back up flip up iron sights, and its a free float quad rail system. The lower is polymer and the upper is metal which really bothers me for some reason. EDIT: The rifle is for the range/HD. I'm a marine officer in training and I'm looking at infantry, so I thought I would pick up a rifle before I leave for TBS(The Basic School). Your instincts are right, most Polymer lowers have a reputation for breaking. If it is for HD, replace the polymer lower with aluminum first. |
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There's a difference between teaching a kid fundamentals at the range, and quickly advancing someone for defensive purposes. Waiting 2 years to buy a red dot, and not training with it, slows down HD effectiveness in the interim. I'm assuming OP is using the AR for HD. Quoted:
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A grip is definitely higher on my list that a "laser". Out of a dozen rifles, I still don't have a laser on one
The grip is the first thing I change, but I already know I hate the A2 grip after shooting thousands of rounds with one. Having said; as long as you are completely comfortable with your rifle, and have a thousand rounds through it, and 10 mags stacked up...start looking at a nice red dot, maybe. Save up for an Aimpoint PRO I always use my son as my example. He went 2 years with his bone stock rifle, and I just got him his first red dot and BCM grip for Christmas. 4000 rounds through the rifle before he got one new accessory. There's a difference between teaching a kid fundamentals at the range, and quickly advancing someone for defensive purposes. Waiting 2 years to buy a red dot, and not training with it, slows down HD effectiveness in the interim. I'm assuming OP is using the AR for HD. I knew nothing of the OPs experience until his post about being a Marine. I read it as being new to the AR, as there was nothing in that first post to imply anything related to advancing to an HD purpose. We both made assumptions. |
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So should I just buy a new complete lower altogether or just buy a stripped metal one? Either one. I dont know what receiver extension or LPK you have, but if they're decent just get a stripped lower. If the LPK and extension are low grade then pick up a complete lower |
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Yeah its a pretty shitty lower. How does this one look?
http://www.surplusammo.com/anderson-am-15-ar15-complete-lower-with-collapsing-stock-winter-trigger-guard-integral/ EDIT: Here's my current polymer lower: http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/New_Frontier_Armory_LW_15_Complete_Poly_Lower_p/nfa-lw15blk.htm I wouldn't mind taking apart a rifle myself, I might as well get comfortable with it now. |
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What polymer lower do you currently have? Does it have normal lower parts, or polymer? Do you want to disassemble and re-assemble lowers, or just buy complete? Quoted:
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So should I just buy a new complete lower altogether or just buy a stripped metal one? What polymer lower do you currently have? Does it have normal lower parts, or polymer? Do you want to disassemble and re-assemble lowers, or just buy complete? There are polymer LPK's now? Good lord! 
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Yeah its a pretty shitty lower. How does this one look? http://www.surplusammo.com/anderson-am-15-ar15-complete-lower-with-collapsing-stock-winter-trigger-guard-integral/ EDIT: Here's my current polymer lower: http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/New_Frontier_Armory_LW_15_Complete_Poly_Lower_p/nfa-lw15blk.htm I wouldn't mind taking apart a rifle myself, I might as well get comfortable with it now. Neither link works for me, but does it say what brand parts are on your current lower? |
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Whoops sorry, here's the Anderson lower I'm looking at:
Anderson Lower Here's my current New Frontier Armory polymer lower: New Frontier Armory Polymer Lower |
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Yeah its a pretty shitty lower. How does this one look? http://www.surplusammo.com/anderson-am-15-ar15-complete-lower-with-collapsing-stock-winter-trigger-guard-integral/ EDIT: Here's my current polymer lower: http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/New_Frontier_Armory_LW_15_Complete_Poly_Lower_p/nfa-lw15blk.htm I wouldn't mind taking apart a rifle myself, I might as well get comfortable with it now. The lower you have has a polymer FCG. It doesn't say, but Im guessing the pins, mag catch and most of the other lower parts are polymer too. I have one of these that's about 2 years old, it isn't bad for the range, but I wouldn't trust it for HD. I also wouldn't try to take it apart, or use the parts from it on another lower. The good news is, it was cheap, it's lightweight, and the trigger is lighter and cleaner than mil spec. The lower you are looking at buying doesn't list what parts are used. I'd email them to find out what parts, or buy from someone like Palmetto state armory who gives you the details on what went into the lower. Personally, I'd buy a lower with an ALG ACT or Geisselle already installed, and the grip/buttstock you want, or order parts and assemble your own. It will be cheaper than buying it, then swapping it all out later. |
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Whoops sorry, here's the Anderson lower I'm looking at: Anderson Lower Here's my current New Frontier Armory polymer lower: New Frontier Armory Polymer Lower you have a commercial extension, I don't run commercial anything. If you want the good shit buy a stripped anderson lower and a mil-spec receiver extension, as well as a mil-spec m4 waffle stock. Like I said your LPK might be ok, but it wouldnt hurt to just buy a whole new complete lower with mil-spec parts eta- nevermind, if you have a polymer lower parts kit throw it in the garbage. Buy a whole new mil spec complete lower. |
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Getting a little expensive there, but I definitely do see the upside of having a mil-spec rifle and I'll definitely make that a priority as the money comes along. I'll take it to the range, see how the lower does and adjust accordingly. Sounds like a good plan. Until then just be conscious not to drop your rifle or smack it on walls or something, I have a polymer lower as well but I look at it as no more than a disposable lower. My home defense rifle is all mil spec. You'll get there tho. |
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Getting a little expensive there, but I definitely do see the upside of having a mil-spec rifle and I'll definitely make that a priority as the money comes along. I'll take it to the range, see how the lower does and adjust accordingly. I'd definitely replace that lower before buying anything else except maybe a little ammo, a few mags and a flashlight (HD rifle is worthless 50% of the time with no flashlight). It is very possible that the polymer pivot or takedown pin, or mag catch snaps when you need it most. That would be very bad. If you decide to run the Polymer lower for a while, replace those parts if they are polymer. You can buy those parts for probably $20 then use them on an aluminum lower you build later. Another good thing about building your own is you can buy the stuff one piece at a time, and when it is on sale. Edit: I hear ya on the money thing. When I was in College, my HD rifle was a baseball bat. |
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Getting a little expensive there, but I definitely do see the upside of having a mil-spec rifle and I'll definitely make that a priority as the money comes along. I'll take it to the range, see how the lower does and adjust accordingly. I'm going to go against the grain here, since you need an entire lower + LPK, and suggest your purchase this complete lower. It's not much more expensive than your complete poly lower and it's built with solid quality parts. |
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1. Light (anything from Surefire would work) 2. Red dot (anything from Aimpoint would work) 3. Sling (VTAC or VCAS) In that order, with strong emphasis on the first two. These three in this order. However, before you go ''pimping'' your AR out, learn the the basics; ie, become proficient with your ''irons'' before moving on to the plethora of optic choices. |
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These three in this order. However, before you go ''pimping'' your AR out, learn the the basics; ie, become proficient with your ''irons'' before moving on to the plethora of optic choices. Quoted:
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1. Light (anything from Surefire would work) 2. Red dot (anything from Aimpoint would work) 3. Sling (VTAC or VCAS) In that order, with strong emphasis on the first two. These three in this order. However, before you go ''pimping'' your AR out, learn the the basics; ie, become proficient with your ''irons'' before moving on to the plethora of optic choices. Don't go cheap on a weapon light, but don't get dependent on one, either. Get the brightest one you can afford, and work hard at figuring out where best to mount it for your uses. Red dots are everywhere, but if you haven't ever used one it can be an odd experience. Primary Arms has some really good red dots that don't break the bank. They're worth a look. Slings? There are probably 5 different opinions for how to use a sling among any 3 "experts." Depending on your training (formal and personal), go with what works for you. |
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This (with added emphasis). Home defense doesn't require anything beyond the basic weapon. If you "need" a red dot or light to know what's going on within your home, you aren't familiar enough with your home. Practice getting around in the house blindfolded for a while, just to get to "know" your home. (It's a good idea to do this just to help you manage finding your flashlight in a power failure. No matter how thoroughly you preposition flashlights, the power will go out when you're not right next to one - guaranteed.) Quoted:
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1. Light (anything from Surefire would work) 2. Red dot (anything from Aimpoint would work) 3. Sling (VTAC or VCAS) In that order, with strong emphasis on the first two. These three in this order. However, before you go ''pimping'' your AR out, learn the the basics; ie, become proficient with your ''irons'' before moving on to the plethora of optic choices. The point of a WML isn't to help navigate in the dark. It doesn't matter how well you know your house--you NEED a light to ID someone in your house. How else are you going to tell the difference between a bad guy and a family member in the dark? And a red dot isn't "necessary" either but it sure makes it a heck of a lot to shoot quickly and accurately. Yeah, learning the basics is important, but OP wants a good HD rifle set up, and a red dot will make him more effective with less training required. |
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Sling and a light on any rifle that going to see any real use. Hiking with a rifle or practicing transitions gets pretty shitty pretty quickly without one. Your factory grip, stock and iron sights will work fine until you can save up the funds. Just start here, and end here. At least until you go to Basic, where you can get some hands on and training with free ammo and get paid at the same time. My preferences: Sling - BFG VCAS, mounted at the back of the handguard and on the stock. Just use the slot on your stock for now for the rear attachment. But if you use that rear attachment try to have either a QD at the front or a fastex buckle somewhere on the sling. You might check on the EE, but these are cheap enough that you should just buy one at your LGS. The unpadded model is fine; the padded one adds a little comfort; don't buy the Victory model. Do not mistake the VCAS for the VTAC; they are different slings and the VCAS is superior. Light - Your have a rail, so a VTAC polymer light mount and a Surefire Fury EAG/Tactical (one/high mode only with a clickie tailcap). This is one place where the EE can help. I recently got a Fury with a Gear Sector mount for a great price. The mount had been painted at one time, but so what? There was another Fury/mount combo just a day or two ago; I was tempted. Lots of mounts are good, the VTAC is normally the best priced one. ETA: If you have the money then replace the lower. Otherwise just shoot it as often and as much as you can until Basic, then decide on changes later. If you change out the lower assembly then don't decide which parts to swap over, just buy everything new and keep the poly lower as is. Do not believe that PSA or any other company means mil-spec unless they explicitly call out every spec. For instance, while some PSA stuff is mil-spec and PSA is always a good price for what you get, PSA 'mil-spec' is not always really mil-spec. The linked lower has a "Milspec diameter Receiver Extension" which means it is the correct diameter and that it isn't the correct material. It is NOT 7075 aluminum; it IS 6061 aluminum and it isn't as strong as mil-spec. And while they aren't lying, they are (IMO) implying things that are not true. Great lower, maybe a good LPK (maybe not), and a receiver extension that is sub-standard. Why go from a poly lower to a unknown and substandard parts lower? Good for the money, but wouldn't be my choice. |
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The point of a WML isn't to help navigate in the dark. It doesn't matter how well you know your house--you NEED a light to ID someone in your house. How else are you going to tell the difference between a bad guy and a family member in the dark? And a red dot isn't "necessary" either but it sure makes it a heck of a lot to shoot quickly and accurately. Yeah, learning the basics is important, but OP wants a good HD rifle set up, and a red dot will make him more effective with less training required. Quoted:
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1. Light (anything from Surefire would work) 2. Red dot (anything from Aimpoint would work) 3. Sling (VTAC or VCAS) In that order, with strong emphasis on the first two. These three in this order. However, before you go ''pimping'' your AR out, learn the the basics; ie, become proficient with your ''irons'' before moving on to the plethora of optic choices. The point of a WML isn't to help navigate in the dark. It doesn't matter how well you know your house--you NEED a light to ID someone in your house. How else are you going to tell the difference between a bad guy and a family member in the dark? And a red dot isn't "necessary" either but it sure makes it a heck of a lot to shoot quickly and accurately. Yeah, learning the basics is important, but OP wants a good HD rifle set up, and a red dot will make him more effective with less training required. |
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