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should have used peel washers on a barrel like that, looks like the crushwasher shifted in the relief. I don't think I've ever seen a muzzle device that a crush washer was used that wasn't ever so slightly off. OP, yours is the worse I've seen, it's sloppy as fuck to be honest. But it isn't going to cause any problems... |
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As has already been said, it looks to be in good alignment and it doesn't look cross threaded to me. Crush washer just isn't centered. You could toss a cleaning rod down the bore and make sure it doesn't hang up on the muzzle break if that will make you feel better.
ETA: I still wouldn't accept that quality of workmanship. I'd be removing that and installing a new crush washer that was centered better if I were you. |
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As has already been said, it looks to be in good alignment and it doesn't look cross threaded to me. Crush washer just isn't centered. You could toss a cleaning rod down the bore and make sure it doesn't hang up on the muzzle break if that will make you feel better. ETA: I still wouldn't accept that quality of workmanship. I'd be removing that and installing a new crush washer that was centered better if I were you. This. However, it begs the question, why are you paying a gunsmith to install a muzzle brake in the first place? If you have the ability to browse a website such as ARFcom, 15 minutes of your time invested on youtube (or any generic video streaming share) will have you at 100% for this task. |
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This. However, it begs the question, why are you paying a gunsmith to install a muzzle brake in the first place? If you have the ability to browse a website such as ARFcom, 15 minutes of your time invested on youtube (or any generic video streaming share) will have you at 100% for this task. Quoted:
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As has already been said, it looks to be in good alignment and it doesn't look cross threaded to me. Crush washer just isn't centered. You could toss a cleaning rod down the bore and make sure it doesn't hang up on the muzzle break if that will make you feel better. ETA: I still wouldn't accept that quality of workmanship. I'd be removing that and installing a new crush washer that was centered better if I were you. This. However, it begs the question, why are you paying a gunsmith to install a muzzle brake in the first place? If you have the ability to browse a website such as ARFcom, 15 minutes of your time invested on youtube (or any generic video streaming share) will have you at 100% for this task. What do you recommend for holding the bbl in the vice without damaging the finish? When removing a FH to install a MB. |
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Those will slide right into the relief cut, too. Quoted:
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New crush washer is not going to fix diddly. Order a set of shims from KAC, PWS or another company and time the comp. Those will slide right into the relief cut, too. Quiet. I'm enjoying the drama queens responses. |
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Quiet. I'm enjoying the drama queens responses. Quoted:
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New crush washer is not going to fix diddly. Order a set of shims from KAC, PWS or another company and time the comp. Those will slide right into the relief cut, too. Quiet. I'm enjoying the drama queens responses. lol Seems like you cold just loosen it and wrap a little tape around it to keep it in place , then re tighten, and remove tape. To me, it isn't worth the gas used to bring it to a smith to fix. |
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Quiet. I'm enjoying the drama queens responses. Quoted:
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New crush washer is not going to fix diddly. Order a set of shims from KAC, PWS or another company and time the comp. Those will slide right into the relief cut, too. Quiet. I'm enjoying the drama queens responses. Sorry.
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Thanks for all the inputs.
As a temporary (or permanent) fix, I used my Geissele Reaction Rod to loosen it up the MB and re tightened and achieved the correct alignment. The reason that I got one done by the gunsmith was that I was getting my BCM KMR cerakoted by him and I had this MB when I was there to pick up the rail, and he offered to do it for $10. I guess I could have done it myself and save me the money and hassle. Lesson learned!! |
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The real cure for that is to chuck the barrel in lath and cut the shoulder back another .030" so that the new crush washer will be held in the center when the break is screwed against it. If you've got a lathe, you may as well just time the brake itself. |
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Quiet. I'm enjoying the drama queens responses. Quoted:
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New crush washer is not going to fix diddly. Order a set of shims from KAC, PWS or another company and time the comp. Those will slide right into the relief cut, too. Quiet. I'm enjoying the drama queens responses. One would think you would offer a fix for the OP rather than babble about comments.
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One would think you would offer a fix for the OP rather than babble about comments. ![]() Quoted:
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New crush washer is not going to fix diddly. Order a set of shims from KAC, PWS or another company and time the comp. Those will slide right into the relief cut, too. Quiet. I'm enjoying the drama queens responses. One would think you would offer a fix for the OP rather than babble about comments. ![]() Why would I offer to fix something that isn't broke? |
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One would think you would offer a fix for the OP rather than babble about comments. ![]() Quoted:
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New crush washer is not going to fix diddly. Order a set of shims from KAC, PWS or another company and time the comp. Those will slide right into the relief cut, too. Quiet. I'm enjoying the drama queens responses. One would think you would offer a fix for the OP rather than babble about comments. ![]() I think I liked the unedited post better. |
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