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Posted: 1/18/2014 5:54:36 AM EDT
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Heavy buffers are readily available for purchase for stupid prices.. Is there anyone out there that sells buffer weights so that you can switch out the internal weight and increase the weight of your standard buffer?
What have you guys done experimentally to increase the weight of a standard buffer? (steel/lead shot or a piece of steel rod, etc.) |
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there used to be a member that sold the weights, maybe some one will chime in with his username. I've heard people just filled the buffer with lead shot to get the desired weight, but if I want to experiment I just buy an H2 or H3 buffer then swap the weights with a standard CAR buffer to get the one I need.
I don't think the steel rod will work since the weights in a standard buffer are steel, you need tungsten to get the extra weight in that small of an area. |
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Tungsten is twice the price of steel. You can have SAW replace one of the steel weights in a carbine buffer with a tungsten one and it's cheaper but why bother. You're only paying for the replacement weight, but also the labor and shipping. Might not be worth it. You could call or write and ask to buy just the weight, don't know if they do that or not though.
Don't listen to the good idea fairy if that mofo stops by to tell you to try a 9mm buffer as it's a steel body and a lot heavier. The weight in those isn't the rciprocating weight needed in the AR. It works for the bloback 9mm, but not any of the standard ARs. |
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I put one of these in one of my rifles when tuning it, weighs in at 4.4 oz.
Falls in between a "H" and a "H2" buffer, similar in weight to an "S-2" It is a Middy with a Carbine spring, and is now a very soft shooter. I got lucky and picked it up at a local gun show for $24.00 out the door. Still not a bad price at retail. http://guntecusa.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_64&product_id=92 |
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I got mine from Slash. |
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Quoted:
Filled mine (std car buffer) with lead; as much as I could fit in there. It works great (4.8 oz). Bought two off Amazon (4.9 oz) for 9.99 each they also work great. None os them have the inner weights that slosh back and forth and it does not seem to matter. The weights are supposed to move inside the buffer to help slow acceleration and deceleration. Filling it as full as you get it could possibly cause some issues |
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Colt has made what they call "synthetic" buffer (hard to find now) they were solid; no weights moving around in them. Don't get me wrong, I'm only saying that it can lead to issues, not that it definitely will. It was designed to move for a reason. On a semi- auto it might not be as big of an issue? His may work fine, but he should be aware if down the road there are symptoms that can be hard to diagnose. |
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I don't pull apart buffers often, but when I've pulled mine apart, they were stuck together as one piece. The rubber bumpers held the steel pieces together. So as a test, I had a machinist take a piece of brass, make it slightly oversize, and maybe .020" longer than the three steel weights with two rubber pieces between them. I installed the brass piece with a rubber pad on each side. The result was a buffer that weighed just a bit more than an H buffer.
But as stated, buy one H3, and you'll have three tungsten weights, then you can build with that and a standard any combo of H, H2 or H3. |
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Quoted:
Colt has made what they call "synthetic" buffer (hard to find now) they were solid; no weights moving around in them. Yeah, those were a mistake. Hence them not being around anymore. If they worked fine, Colt or others would be using them as they are a hell of a lot less expensive. The weights move teh way same way the weight in a dead blow hammer moves. It ads that second impulse a split second later to keep the bolt group from bouncing back when it goes into battery. You miht not notice it, but really is the potential for reduced reliabilit worth a few bucks? |
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