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Posted: 1/6/2012 8:42:33 PM EDT
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I am reading a book about the SEALs and it got me to thinking about something. What do they do to prevent rust/corrosion after salt water operations. Are the weapons literally soaked in something like WD-40 to displace the water before cleaning or is it done in another fashion? Thanks.
ERic |
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I would imagine a water displacement type followed by compressed air into all the nooks and crannies. While I am not an armorer, I know my agency has, from time to time, used compressed air to blow out a Glock instead of breaking it down after a salt water dunking.
We end up in marsh water on occasion, use a patrol boat and kayaks, and I'd like to hear some answers on this, too. |
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You'll see more rust on M16s/M4s when you are in a salty environment. However, you just clean like normal. I remember being in Okinawa in the late 90s. Our rifles got soaked with salt water regularly...also got rained on and handled in a rather humid environment. Most of the time we cleaned the rifles twice a day and re-oiled with plenty of CLP. Never had serious problems.
When we were in the rear, we pulled them out of the armory and cleaned and re-oiled them every few days. Rarely went longer than 3 days without a cleaning. Used to use a "donkey dick" to COAT them with a heavy layer of CLP before putting them in the armory. The armory had AC as well to keep it a little drier. |
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Quoted: I think 99% of people missed the point here. We all know how to clean a salty gun, the question was how do the seals do it in a field of combat environment. I doubt theyll have access to warm soapy water just coming out of the ocean with their M4's Clean it like normal. |
| I think the seals were looking into specific coatings (paint) to prevent rust, such as KG Gun Kote. I don't know about cleaning though. I think submersion in a tank of WD-40, CLP, or a similar product followed by a blow out with compressed air would be the most effective. Ultra sonic firearm cleaners usually have two solutions. The first solution is a cleaner and the second solution is an oil bath. |
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I know that the Mk48 has an extra thick coating of some sort on it to help with Corrosion in Salt Water conditions. No idea about an M4/416 type weapon system. Lots of plastic an aluminum. Lol, you know what I mean. I know most of my company's M4 are in need of some work. But what do you expect when most of these have been on 4 deployments to Afghanistan. |
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It's not that freaking hard!
If you have fresh water available, just rinse it clean. You aren't "neutralizing" anything. You're just washing or rinsing the salt off. And as this isn't WWII in the middle of nowhere, they probably do have access to warm water and soap after the mission is over. If the need to clean occurs while still out, then any fresh... ish, water for a rinse followed by wiping dry and lots of oil. Just like the Army, and especially Marines who spend a lot of time in and around salt water do. |
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Got to neutralize salt so use warm water to flush out any part that contacted the salt water and then use a blow dryer or compressed air to blow clean. Then follow normal cleaning procedure. You don't neutralize salt. It is already neutral unless it is exposed to moisture. |
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Pay special attention to the detent springs, dry and drench with oil. If not properly lubed they will rust and not provide pressure on the detent. Yup. For all the talk we have here about not following the old school AR maintenance and cleaning procedures, you really should follow the old oiling point charts because it is too easy to forget about all the detents and springs. Those springs are not under much stress, but they don't need much rust to break them. That is after I wash my rifle out in the slop sink under warm water.
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This is what humid, salty air will do to an AR after about 1 week. I took this on vacation to Hilton Head SC last year in case I found a range to shoot at. Rifle was in a soft case secured in the bed of my pick-up truck, and was never even opened up to the air direclty. Fortunately it was only surface corrosion, so I was able to wipe this off with an oiled rag. http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/rustyar-1.jpg If humid salty air does this, I'd have to imagine that direct saltwater exposure would be hard on a rifle if it wasn't cleaned shortly after exposure. You should have coated that gun with Breakfree CLP (Even the barrel exterior), then put it in a Pelican case with closed cell foam. That wouldn't have happened. But your pic is a great example of now *easy* it can happen. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Pay special attention to the detent springs, dry and drench with oil. If not properly lubed they will rust and not provide pressure on the detent. Yup. For all the talk we have here about not following the old school AR maintenance and cleaning procedures, you really should follow the old oiling point charts because it is too easy to forget about all the detents and springs. Those springs are not under much stress, but they don't need much rust to break them. That is after I wash my rifle out in the slop sink under warm water. ![]() Would you please share charts/graphic/description/thread of "old school AR maintenance and cleaning procedures?" Thank you. |
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Quoted:
This is what humid, salty air will do to an AR after about 1 week. I took this on vacation to Hilton Head SC last year in case I found a range to shoot at. Rifle was in a soft case secured in the bed of my pick-up truck, and was never even opened up to the air direclty. Fortunately it was only surface corrosion, so I was able to wipe this off with an oiled rag. http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/rustyar-1.jpg If humid salty air does this, I'd have to imagine that direct saltwater exposure would be hard on a rifle if it wasn't cleaned shortly after exposure. I've seen that happen overnight on an issued M16. The parkerizing gets worn off due to all the handling, and they rust much easier then (especially if touched with sweaty hands). |
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I know that the Mk48 has an extra thick coating of some sort on it to help with Corrosion in Salt Water conditions. No idea about an M4/416 type weapon system. Lots of plastic an aluminum. Aluminu and salt water do may not mix well. always flush with fresh water then clean as normal |
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Flush with clean water, blow dry, clean and lube as normal. I run my AK through the shower after shooting corrosive. This is how I did it for years when I carried an AR on the boat. The salt spray wasn't tough to deal with as long as you stayed on top of it. Putting a finger cot over the flash hider and keeping the dust cover closed helped a bit too ETA: An air compressor is a godsend after rinsing. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Quoted:
This is what humid, salty air will do to an AR after about 1 week. I took this on vacation to Hilton Head SC last year in case I found a range to shoot at. Rifle was in a soft case secured in the bed of my pick-up truck, and was never even opened up to the air direclty. Fortunately it was only surface corrosion, so I was able to wipe this off with an oiled rag. http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/rustyar-1.jpg If humid salty air does this, I'd have to imagine that direct saltwater exposure would be hard on a rifle if it wasn't cleaned shortly after exposure. Trapped in a gun case is what did that. Wrapping a rifle in a regular old dry towel will prevent that.... there was too much moisture buildup, that's all. I ran a boat for a long time with M4's on board. A small boat; everything got soaked regularly. Almost always salt water, or brackish rivers. Just clean 'em, and lube 'em, and carry on as usual. |
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I think the seals were looking into specific coatings (paint) to prevent rust, such as [url=http://www.kgcoatings.com/protective-coatings/2300-original-gun-kote/]KG Gun Kote[/url]. I don't know about cleaning though. I think submersion in a tank of WD-40, CLP, or a similar product followed by a blow out with compressed air would be the most effective. Ultra sonic firearm cleaners usually have two solutions. The first solution is a cleaner and the second solution is an oil bath. Gun Kote was developed for the purpose way back in the day. Packing recesses and things like the selector spring and detent, F/S post detent and spring etc. help mitigate water intrusion. |
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