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7/15/2011 12:17:45 PM EDT
Just did a search and didn't find anything.

I'm thinking about selling one of my uppers and I'd like to get the Troy BUIS and flashlight mount off. Any tricks on getting red locktite to bust loose? Will heat work?

I wanted to get some feedback before I start wrenching or torching on my expensive parts. Thanks.
7/15/2011 12:22:06 PM EDT
[#1]
Now why in the f would you RED Loctite those parts????

Heat.  A lot of it.  Something like 350 degrees Fahernheit, I think.

Good luck.

ETA:  I found the following in a five year old post on another forum:

The following was found on the Loctite site FAQs section.

Removal/Clean Up

Q: What solvents can I use to remove liquid Loctite materials?

A: Most organic solvents are effective in removing anaerobic and cyanoacrylate adhesives. Chlorinated solvents are most commonly used. Dry MEK and acetone are used on applications using instant adhesives.

Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?

A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface
7/15/2011 12:28:08 PM EDT
[#2]
You know what... I think it was actually blue locktite. It was in a red tube though so I got confused.
7/15/2011 12:30:01 PM EDT
[#3]
Well, if it's blue (Loctite 242), you're golden.  That's just a threadlocker.  And makes much more sense.
7/15/2011 12:30:26 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
You know what... I think it was actually blue locktite. It was in a red tube though so I got confused.


I was gonna say...red locktite would not be fun to break free
7/15/2011 12:32:24 PM EDT
[#5]





Quoted:





Quoted:


You know what... I think it was actually blue locktite. It was in a red tube though so I got confused.






I was gonna say...red locktite would not be fun to break free



I used a tiny dab of red on an optic mount once, and it was insanely effective...I had to put more torque on it than I was comfortable with...learned my lesson good on that one.





 
7/15/2011 12:58:29 PM EDT
[#6]
You guys are kinda freaking me out about the red locktite.....No nothing further to add
7/15/2011 1:07:45 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
You know what... I think it was actually blue locktite. It was in a red tube though so I got confused.


Blue is easy to get loose so your good........

I have no idea why they do that but I have red locktite in a blue bottle and blue locktite in a red bottle WTF  
7/15/2011 2:28:01 PM EDT
[#8]
I have had good experiences with using a soldering iron on loctited screws.  

useless info since you are using blue.. but just throwing it out there.
7/15/2011 4:47:32 PM EDT
[#9]
ya blue you can simply break free with whatever tool you need to remove the fastener.  good rule of thumb is blue is good for keeping things in place.  red is useful for high vibration situations that will probably never need to be removed but can be with high amounts of heat.  a good example would be locking a new gas piston in place on an ak.  green locktite is used in extreme situations when whatever you are fastening together will never ever be removed.  even heat wont always break green loose.  though you should never use it on a firearm in the first place.
7/16/2011 9:11:19 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
I have had good experiences with using a soldering iron on loctited screws.  


This is the best method for applying controlled high heat to a small area.
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