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Posted: 5/22/2011 12:37:41 PM EDT
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I imagine this has been discussed a million times, but I am having a hard time finding the answers.
I have a 16" carbine that is over gassed. I have a semi auto bcg. I want to slow it all down a bit w/ out replacing my bcg. (it's just not something I want to replace on this rifle). What do I need to do to slow it down? New buffer? What about a new buffer spring? |
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What brought you to the conclusion that its overgassed?
I have two s&w m&p 15's and originally both shot nearly the same, one with a standard front sight base, the other with a railed gas block. Both shot nearly the same, felt the same etc. But the railed gas block was slightly canted, so I replaced it with a YHM flip up front sight/gas block. After that, it felt much more violent than the other rifle. I then compared it to a LMT and a BM, both with semi-auto carriers and they felt like the other M&P. Even the other shooter said the one felt more violent. My conclusion is it's over gassed now. Btw, same ammo was used in all 4 rifles. |
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What brought you to the conclusion that its overgassed?
Is your rifle have trouble functioning? Is it breaking bolts? Is there excessive wear on certain parts that you're having trouble with? No, no, no. I just want to slow thi g's down before I start having issues. |
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What brought you to the conclusion that its overgassed?
Is your rifle have trouble functioning? Is it breaking bolts? Is there excessive wear on certain parts that you're having trouble with? No, no, no. I just want to slow thi g's down before I start having issues. I will spare you the round about way of saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it" what you want is an H3 buffer. Buy one of those, test it out. If your rifle won't cycle with the H3... pop out the pin on the buffer and remove a weight... now you have an H2... repeat until you find a reliable weight for your rifle/ammo. Another option would be an adjustable gas block.. you could dial it down until you hit the sweet spot. |
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What brought you to the conclusion that its overgassed?
Is your rifle have trouble functioning? Is it breaking bolts? Is there excessive wear on certain parts that you're having trouble with? No, no, no. I just want to slow thi g's down before I start having issues. I will spare you the round about way of saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it" what you want is an H3 buffer. Buy one of those, test it out. If your rifle won't cycle with the H3... pop out the pin on the buffer and remove a weight... now you have an H2... repeat until you find a reliable weight for your rifle/ammo. Another option would be an adjustable gas block.. you could dial it down until you hit the sweet spot. I knew the gas block was an option, but I really did not want to go that route. Thanks on the H3. I was not aware I could remove weight. I will go that route then. |
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When you remove a weight from an H3 buffer, you will need to replace it with a steel weight from your carbine buffer.
An H3 has 3 tungsten, a carbine has 3 steel. H2 has 2 tungsten,1 steel. By just removing one tungsten, it will throw it off somewhat. Probably would work, but there would be more movement internally in the buffer than normal buffers. |
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What brought you to the conclusion that its overgassed?
Is your rifle have trouble functioning? Is it breaking bolts? Is there excessive wear on certain parts that you're having trouble with? No, no, no. I just want to slow thi g's down before I start having issues. I will spare you the round about way of saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it" what you want is an H3 buffer. Buy one of those, test it out. If your rifle won't cycle with the H3... pop out the pin on the buffer and remove a weight... now you have an H2... repeat until you find a reliable weight for your rifle/ammo. Another option would be an adjustable gas block.. you could dial it down until you hit the sweet spot. I knew the gas block was an option, but I really did not want to go that route. Thanks on the H3. I was not aware I could remove weight. I will go that route then. Be careful on the removing weight thing. It's more than simply opening the buffer and removing one weight. You'll need to put something back in, or else the weights will be moving around a lot more and that could effect proper functionality of the buffer. Never shot one like that, so I'm not sure what would happen. |
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What brought you to the conclusion that its overgassed?
Be careful on the removing weight thing. It's more than simply opening the buffer and removing one weight. You'll need to put something back in, or else the weights will be moving around a lot more and that could effect proper functionality of the buffer. Never shot one like that, so I'm not sure what would happen. good point. forgot that tidbit... what would you suggest he uses? Nylon washers or spacers possibly? |
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What brought you to the conclusion that its overgassed?
Be careful on the removing weight thing. It's more than simply opening the buffer and removing one weight. You'll need to put something back in, or else the weights will be moving around a lot more and that could effect proper functionality of the buffer. Never shot one like that, so I'm not sure what would happen. good point. forgot that tidbit... what would you suggest he uses? Nylon washers or spacers possibly? A steel weight from a carbine buffer. I guess. |
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I have two s&w m&p 15's and originally both shot nearly the same, one with a standard front sight base, the other with a railed gas block. Both shot nearly the same, felt the same etc. But the railed gas block was slightly canted, so I replaced it with a YHM flip up front sight/gas block. After that, it felt much more violent than the other rifle. I then compared it to a LMT and a BM, both with semi-auto carriers and they felt like the other M&P. Even the other shooter said the one felt more violent. My conclusion is it's over gassed now. Btw, same ammo was used in all 4 rifles.[/div] I dont care how "in tune" you are with your ARs, no one can make an accurate conclusion that a gun is over gassed by feel. If you didnt drill a bigger gas port in the barrel, you didint change a thing swapping sight bases. Your gun isnt broke, dont fix it. |
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Quoted: Quoted: I have two s&w m&p 15's and originally both shot nearly the same, one with a standard front sight base, the other with a railed gas block. Both shot nearly the same, felt the same etc. But the railed gas block was slightly canted, so I replaced it with a YHM flip up front sight/gas block. After that, it felt much more violent than the other rifle. I then compared it to a LMT and a BM, both with semi-auto carriers and they felt like the other M&P. Even the other shooter said the one felt more violent. My conclusion is it's over gassed now. Btw, same ammo was used in all 4 rifles.[/div] I dont care how "in tune" you are with your ARs, no one can make an accurate conclusion that a gun is over gassed by feel. If you didnt drill a bigger gas port in the barrel, you didint change a thing swapping sight bases. Your gun isnt broke, dont fix it. Dont truly overgassed guns tend to rip case rims off during extraction? |
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I have two s&w m&p 15's and originally both shot nearly the same, one with a standard front sight base, the other with a railed gas block. Both shot nearly the same, felt the same etc. But the railed gas block was slightly canted, so I replaced it with a YHM flip up front sight/gas block. After that, it felt much more violent than the other rifle. I then compared it to a LMT and a BM, both with semi-auto carriers and they felt like the other M&P. Even the other shooter said the one felt more violent. My conclusion is it's over gassed now. Btw, same ammo was used in all 4 rifles.[/div] I dont care how "in tune" you are with your ARs, no one can make an accurate conclusion that a gun is over gassed by feel. If you didnt drill a bigger gas port in the barrel, you didint change a thing swapping sight bases. Your gun isnt broke, dont fix it. While I understand what you are saying, I "know" something is not right. Yes, it works, and it works just fine, but I would rather "fix" what is not broke before it becomes broke. BTW, smiths are known to have larger gas ports and being over gassed. I guess that replacing the canted block with a good straight block allowed more gas in???? Kinda like the canted block was just off enough to cut off a bit of the gas port. I look at it kinda like a car with a knock. Do you drive it till it breaks and possibly have to replace the heads or much worse the engine? Or do you fix it before it becomes worse? For me, I would rather fix it before it's worse. Now, this is not my "go to" rifle, in fact I am setting this one up to be a hog rifle, so I could just let it go till it breaks, but why? Quoted:
Is gas hitting you in the face through the charging handle channel? I noticed that happening to me after putting on a YHM gas block/sight. Yes it is. It was not doing that before. In fact I was researching the gas buster charging handle or the gas buster "mod" to this charging handle. Thanks for all the responses. I will try the h3 buffer and swap weights if need be. Btw, is their an order to how the weights are in there? Steel first or steel last on the H2 or H buffers |
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I have two s&w m&p 15's and originally both shot nearly the same, one with a standard front sight base, the other with a railed gas block. Both shot nearly the same, felt the same etc. But the railed gas block was slightly canted, so I replaced it with a YHM flip up front sight/gas block. After that, it felt much more violent than the other rifle. I then compared it to a LMT and a BM, both with semi-auto carriers and they felt like the other M&P. Even the other shooter said the one felt more violent. My conclusion is it's over gassed now. Btw, same ammo was used in all 4 rifles.[/div] I dont care how "in tune" you are with your ARs, no one can make an accurate conclusion that a gun is over gassed by feel. If you didnt drill a bigger gas port in the barrel, you didint change a thing swapping sight bases. Your gun isnt broke, dont fix it. Canted sounds like the port in the FSB wasn't correctly aligned with the hole in the barrel. Even if the FSB was restricting gas flow that doesn't mean that it's now over gassed. Have you had any malfunctions since the change? Or are you relying only on your "perception"? |
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While I understand what you are saying, I "know" something is not right. Yes, it works, and it works just fine, but I would rather "fix" what is not broke before it becomes broke. BTW, smiths are known to have larger gas ports and being over gassed. I guess that replacing the canted block with a good straight block allowed more gas in???? Kinda like the canted block was just off enough to cut off a bit of the gas port. The hole in the gas block is around .160, the gas port is maybe .068. For the gas block to be canted enough to cut off any gas, the gas tube would be so crooked in the receiver, you would not be able to close the bolt because the key would bind with the gas tube. You "think" something is wrong, but its all in your head. You are just making busy work for yourself and wasting money on band aids (buffers/carriers/weights are not fixes) to a non existent problem. If you want to actually do something about what you ASSume is an over gas issue, for $35 I'll weld your gas port shut and drill a new smaller port. |
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I have two s&w m&p 15's and originally both shot nearly the same, one with a standard front sight base, the other with a railed gas block. Both shot nearly the same, felt the same etc. But the railed gas block was slightly canted, so I replaced it with a YHM flip up front sight/gas block. After that, it felt much more violent than the other rifle. I then compared it to a LMT and a BM, both with semi-auto carriers and they felt like the other M&P. Even the other shooter said the one felt more violent. My conclusion is it's over gassed now. Btw, same ammo was used in all 4 rifles.[/div] I dont care how "in tune" you are with your ARs, no one can make an accurate conclusion that a gun is over gassed by feel. If you didnt drill a bigger gas port in the barrel, you didint change a thing swapping sight bases. Your gun isnt broke, dont fix it. what ever you do , do not pay attention to somebody who does this for a living.. yeah just a bit of sarcasm there , im pretty sure adco has built a rifle or two. |
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I dont care how "in tune" you are with your ARs, no one can make an accurate conclusion that a gun is over gassed by feel. If you didnt drill a bigger gas port in the barrel, you didint change a thing swapping sight bases. Your gun isnt broke, dont fix it. If you look up "getting schooled" in the Webster... This is it. |
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While I understand what you are saying, I "know" something is not right. Yes, it works, and it works just fine, but I would rather "fix" what is not broke before it becomes broke. BTW, smiths are known to have larger gas ports and being over gassed. I guess that replacing the canted block with a good straight block allowed more gas in???? Kinda like the canted block was just off enough to cut off a bit of the gas port. The hole in the gas block is around .160, the gas port is maybe .068. For the gas block to be canted enough to cut off any gas, the gas tube would be so crooked in the receiver, you would not be able to close the bolt because the key would bind with the gas tube. You "think" something is wrong, but its all in your head. You are just making busy work for yourself and wasting money on band aids (buffers/carriers/weights are not fixes) to a non existent problem. If you want to actually do something about what you ASSume is an over gas issue, for $35 I'll weld your gas port shut and drill a new smaller port. All true but I've seen a clamp on gas block who's port was under sized, about .078 and right at the diameter used on the barrel (manufacturer shall remain nameless) that caused similar borderline issues (clearly seen with a bore scope). And of course barrel gas holes can get covered front to back as the distance from the gas block shoulder on the barrel to the port hole doesn't match that used by the gas block manufacturer. It should be easy enough since he's already swapped them once to pull the block, measure the holes, and report back. Not saying that is at all the case here just that it's possible. |
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Quoted: Quoted: While I understand what you are saying, I "know" something is not right. Yes, it works, and it works just fine, but I would rather "fix" what is not broke before it becomes broke. BTW, smiths are known to have larger gas ports and being over gassed. I guess that replacing the canted block with a good straight block allowed more gas in???? Kinda like the canted block was just off enough to cut off a bit of the gas port. The hole in the gas block is around .160, the gas port is maybe .068. For the gas block to be canted enough to cut off any gas, the gas tube would be so crooked in the receiver, you would not be able to close the bolt because the key would bind with the gas tube. You "think" something is wrong, but its all in your head. You are just making busy work for yourself and wasting money on band aids (buffers/carriers/weights are not fixes) to a non existent problem. If you want to actually do something about what you ASSume is an over gas issue, for $35 I'll weld your gas port shut and drill a new smaller port. Take Bigbore's advice. |
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The hole in the gas block is around .160, the gas port is maybe .068. For the gas block to be canted enough to cut off any gas, the gas tube would be so crooked in the receiver, you would not be able to close the bolt because the key would bind with the gas tube. You "think" something is wrong, but its all in your head. You are just making busy work for yourself and wasting money on band aids (buffers/carriers/weights are not fixes) to a non existent problem. If you want to actually do something about what you ASSume is an over gas issue, for $35 I'll weld your gas port shut and drill a new smaller port. +1 all the way! |
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