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Posted: 4/7/2011 12:02:50 PM EDT
| how easy is it to do with a dremel tool and with it still on the barrel? i'm thinking of picking up a 1.5X4.5 scope for bush hunting this year and i don't want the front sight in the way. |
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just FWIW, the front sight should not be in the way of a scope. unless you are using with a sun shade. i use my 3-9x32 on my m4gery with no problems. Yes this ^^ Don't cut until you try it with the new scope ! OP's going to be using a 1.5-4.5x scope and below 3x the sight might be quite annoting. Above 3x it should not be a problem. |
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just FWIW, the front sight should not be in the way of a scope. unless you are using with a sun shade. i use my 3-9x32 on my m4gery with no problems. Yes this ^^ Don't cut until you try it with the new scope ! OP's going to be using a 1.5-4.5x scope and below 3x the sight might be quite annoting. Above 3x it should not be a problem. Still, try it first before breaking out the chainsaw 
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just FWIW, the front sight should not be in the way of a scope. unless you are using with a sun shade. i use my 3-9x32 on my m4gery with no problems. Yes this ^^ Don't cut until you try it with the new scope ! OP's going to be using a 1.5-4.5x scope and below 3x the sight might be quite annoting. Above 3x it should not be a problem. Yeah...I use a 1-4 scope w/ a FSB and I see it until I get past about 2.5 power. I'm thinking about cutting my FSB and going with a longer rail and flip up sights. |
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just FWIW, the front sight should not be in the way of a scope. unless you are using with a sun shade. i use my 3-9x32 on my m4gery with no problems. Yes this ^^ Don't cut until you try it with the new scope ! OP's going to be using a 1.5-4.5x scope and below 3x the sight might be quite annoting. Above 3x it should not be a problem. good point! |
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just FWIW, the front sight should not be in the way of a scope. unless you are using with a sun shade. i use my 3-9x32 on my m4gery with no problems. Yes this ^^ Don't cut until you try it with the new scope ! OP's going to be using a 1.5-4.5x scope and below 3x the sight might be quite annoting. Above 3x it should not be a problem. Yeah...I use a 1-4 scope w/ a FSB and I see it until I get past about 2.5 power. I'm thinking about cutting my FSB and going with a longer rail and flip up sights. Do it, done it, NO regrets here! 
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Quoted: Who cares what it looks like under the rail? It's under the rail. Nobody will see it. You can do a half decent job with the small cut-off wheels and a polishing wheel. Be patient and let the speed of the tool do the work (not your elbow) and you'll finish without breaking a wheel (though you may use one up). Finish it up with black high-heat Krylon and you're GTG. If you can pull the fsb before cutting it would be a plus. If you want to clean it up real nice and refinish it it really needs to come off. http://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/aceranch/gasblock.jpg |
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Don't cut the FSB, get a low profile gas block. The FSB is unique to the barrel, pretty much if you cut it you have committed to sending your barrel to ADCO or another quality gunsmith to have another FSB fitted. Please explain. I've been toying with this idea and would like to know of any downsides. |
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Don't cut the FSB, get a low profile gas block. The FSB is unique to the barrel, pretty much if you cut it you have committed to sending your barrel to ADCO or another quality gunsmith to have another FSB fitted. Please explain. I've been toying with this idea and would like to know of any downsides. You install a FSB by placing a new FSB and barrel into a jig and then drill...new FSB's have no taper pin holes in them. No two jig's are the same so the taper pin holes and angles of the drill are not the same. You cannot just swap FSB's. |
| The FSB is held on by 2 tapered pins. The holes for the pins are reamed through the FSB and the lower edge of the barrel. They are machined together at the same time. You can remove the tapered pins and the FSB and cover these holes in the barrel with many other clamp-on or set screw type gas blocks. If you change your mind, you can always change back to the original FSB. However, the FSB that you removed is the ONLY FSB that will match the tapered holes in the barrel. It is very difficult to fit a new FSB to existing holes in a barrel. It can be done but it involves a larger reamer and pins plus someone who knows the process. So just be aware of this when you alter the original FSB. |
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Place the scope the correct height for your style and eye relief. I don't think you will have a problem with interference from the front sight. I tell folks this all the time...but when they see the setup they are very difficult to convince. Once a person looks through the scope.....95% are very happy.
Look at it this way........it won't cost any more to try it. |
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The FSB is held on by 2 tapered pins. The holes for the pins are reamed through the FSB and the lower edge of the barrel. They are machined together at the same time. You can remove the tapered pins and the FSB and cover these holes in the barrel with many other clamp-on or set screw type gas blocks. If you change your mind, you can always change back to the original FSB. However, the FSB that you removed is the ONLY FSB that will match the tapered holes in the barrel. It is very difficult to fit a new FSB to existing holes in a barrel. It can be done but it involves a larger reamer and pins plus someone who knows the process. So just be aware of this when you alter the original FSB. Finally some clarity in these last few posts. There are low pro gas blocks designed to cover the area that the FSB vacates and of course you keep your original FSB intact. Yankee Hill |
| I plan to do the very thing you're thinking, cutting it while on the barrel. I don't move front sights enough to make it a point of concern. While I realize the quality of the work may be a bit better with the FSB off and in a vice, I'm willing to take a chance and my time. All it needs to do is function as it'll be living under the rail. |
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I have done the two I have different ways for different reasons.
1. I have a 16" barreled M4gery that I wante dto make into a Dissapator. I bought a used, stripped FSB from the EE and chopped that one. Tapped the taper pin holes and ran set screws to hold it in place against the original taper pin holes on the barrel. They did not line up 100% but enough that that sucker isn't going anywhere. This way if I change my mind I can put the original FSB back on without issue. 2. I have a pinned 14.5" barrel and wanted a free float rail. So I chopped that one as it sat and ordered a Samson Evolution rail that will slip over the chopped FSB and mount against the factory barrel nut. Hind sight I probab;y should have gone with a bolt down low-pro gas block for the #1 project, but I am cheap and have been wanting to chop a FSB in preperation for the #2 project. Chopping the first one gave me a clear understanding and experience that came in handy with the #2 project. I love doing hands on stuff. |
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If you are planning on also running a free float rail I don't see a reason not to chop it. I chopped the majority of mine while it was still on the barrel and then took it off to clean it up a bit and smooth some areas out. Just be sure to tape up any areas of the barrel that are exposed around the FSB. Pick up some reinforced cut off wheels if you are going to use a dremel. I also broke numerous standard ones cutting mine down and it made the process longer than it needed to be.
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Who cares what it looks like under the rail? It's under the rail. Nobody will see it. You can do a half decent job with the small cut-off wheels and a polishing wheel. Be patient and let the speed of the tool do the work (not your elbow) and you'll finish without breaking a wheel (though you may use one up). Finish it up with black high-heat Krylon and you're GTG.
If you can pull the fsb before cutting it would be a plus. If you want to clean it up real nice and refinish it it really needs to come off. http://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/aceranch/gasblock.jpg Did the OP say the fsb/gas block would be covered by a rail? |
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