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12/21/2010 7:17:39 AM EDT
I was wondering what people do regarding zeroing their rifles.

At the range, I shoot a lot of cheap steel cased, underpowered ammo with light projectiles.
I like to have a good zero, even though the ammo is not consistent.

When I load the rifle at home, I put in M855 which has a significantly different POI
from the steel cased stuff.  

I'm thinking I should record my optics zero settings with the M855
and with the Wolf, and switch the setting back and forth depending
on which I shooting.

Does anyone bother to do this?
12/21/2010 7:20:19 AM EDT
[#1]
No.  I sight mine in with what I have in my SHTF mags at 50yrds for BFZ at 200yrds.  62grn tap.  The cheap shit I shoot at the range is close enough, and I assume my shooting will be withing 30-50yrds in a close urban enviroment.  At that range, a BFZ is not as necessary.
12/21/2010 7:20:33 AM EDT
[#2]
my opinion. Buy a spare upper for for the M855.
12/21/2010 7:27:46 AM EDT
[#3]
shoot cheap ammo then save few rounds of good and re-zero at end of shooting session
12/21/2010 7:28:00 AM EDT
[#4]
sight it in with the ammo you will se in a SHTF situation.....if its M855 zero with that.......everything else is plinking ammo, POI may be slightly off but not much at 50/100......dont sweat that, I would rather know that my go to ammo is where I want it then be worried about a POI shift with all other ammo.
12/21/2010 7:33:59 AM EDT
[#5]
POI wont shift enough to do more than let the bad guy limp away to die on the neighbors property. I'm ok with that, saves me doing the body disposal.

Mine was zero'd for my plinking ammo but I figure its close enough for anything I want to do regardless of the ammo I run through it.

In other words, I wouldnt lose any sleep over it.
12/21/2010 7:34:35 AM EDT
[#6]
I am with the other guys.  I zero it with the good ammo and don't worry about changing for plinking ammo.
12/21/2010 8:56:54 AM EDT
[#7]
I would zero it for the ammo that matters, which in your case seems to be the M855.





Then just adjust your aim ("Kentucky windage") for the ammo that you're shooting or accept that it will be off and go for groups and fun instead of the bullseye.

 
12/21/2010 9:55:31 AM EDT
[#8]
I find it doesn't effect zero that much. Are you shooting the same grain with the wolf and the good stuff ? Or different which would explain things a bit more.
12/21/2010 10:41:17 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
I am with the other guys.  I zero it with the good ammo and don't worry about changing for plinking ammo.


This.  Always zero for what you'll use when your hand is forced.
12/21/2010 10:45:01 AM EDT
[#10]
Zero for your man killin' bullets. Use something in training that is similar. It does not have to be identical, but as long as it is close then you should be gtg.
12/21/2010 10:45:20 AM EDT
[#11]
The biggest difference between my defensive ammo (75gr Hornandy TAP) and my plinking ammo (whatever is the cheapest 55gr I can find) is just the elevation. In other words, the holdovers are different at different ranges. As long as you know what they are, why would you re-zero? Just think of it as "it is zeroed for 75gr at x meters and zeroed for 55gr at y meters."
12/21/2010 10:49:35 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
The biggest difference between my defensive ammo (75gr Hornandy TAP) and my plinking ammo (whatever is the cheapest 55gr I can find) is just the elevation. In other words, the holdovers are different at different ranges. As long as you know what they are, why would you re-zero? Just think of it as "it is zeroed for 75gr at x meters and zeroed for 55gr at y meters."


Only thing I could think of wrong with this is that you will default to your training. If you train on the range for a certain hold over, regardless if you know the difference, when bullets start to fly and your brain goes tits-up then you will be shooting for your hold overs instinctivly. You could religiously shoot your defensive ammo, but doing training, if you have your 55grn ammo, then that is what you will revert to. This is the reaon that I try to maintain a close proximity in performance with both my training and killing ammo. But that is just me.
12/21/2010 1:30:09 PM EDT
[#13]
If you train with x brand 55gr cheap stuff and it performs flawlessly at the range everytime. Then why not make that your SHTF ammo of choice.

Not trying to start anything just want some insight because I shoot cheap all the time and it works great so I stock up on it.

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12/21/2010 1:46:21 PM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
If you train with x brand 55gr cheap stuff and it performs flawlessly at the range everytime. Then why not make that your SHTF ammo of choice.

Not trying to start anything just want some insight because I shoot cheap all the time and it works great so I stock up on it.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile


I guess that ammo is a personal choice.
I would not rely on cheap shit because of reliability and terminal performance.

For me, I like military ammo.  
Military ammo has a cannelure which improves reliability of feeding,
it has staked military primers which also improve reliability.
The round is hermetically sealed.
Military ammo has a high probability of going "bang."
You can also weigh your individual SHF rounds to be sure they are correctly charged with powder.

I also like ammo that will put a hole in various different targets.
I am not LE, so I don't care about "over penetration".
IMO, xm855 has the best chance of penetrating a windshield or car body at an oblique angle,
xm855 has the best chance of defeating any soft body armor.
On the other hand, I give up stopping power due to fragmentation in soft targets.
I would prefer to put a little hole in any threat rather than a big hole in just some threats.
Personal preference...
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