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paint it.
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My dealer received my AEM5. Gotta go in and do the paperwork tomorrow and wait like ... a year to be able to enjoy it. But at least the process is started. I'm enjoying this rifle quite a bit. Just need to get it settled in and group it.
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So I don't have to read through about 1000 pages what is a suitable modern scope that I can actually find easier. The rifle will more or less be clone correct but not too worried about having a newer scope on it. I was looking at the NXS 2.5-10x42 Compact
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Originally Posted By Yumago: So I don't have to read through about 1000 pages what is a suitable modern scope that I can actually find easier. The rifle will more or less be clone correct but not too worried about having a newer scope on it. I was looking at the NXS 2.5-10x42 Compact View Quote Not what this thread's about. There's an Optics subforum if you're looking for optics advice. |
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Originally Posted By Yumago: It is about Mod 0, Mod 1 and Mod H discussion. I am looking at an optic for a Mod 1 and want to discus options for it, but okay. View Quote From page 1 - Optic: Leupold Mk4 MR/T 2.5-8x36mm TS-30A2, M2 turrets with Mk262 BDC, illuminated TMR reticle or NightForce 2.5-10x24 (optionally with NightForce rings) There's one gun (that I know of) thats been seen with NXS 3.5-15x50 F1, but them are your options for clone correct per the purpose of this thread. |
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Originally Posted By Yumago: It is about Mod 0, Mod 1 and Mod H discussion. I am looking at an optic for a Mod 1 and want to discus options for it, but okay. View Quote The point is that they are completely different systems, optics and the rifle. The proper optics for these guns are not modern by any means As they’re nearing 20 years of age. If you want to use a modern optics and don’t care about It being the right optic for these rifles, that’s fine but this thread is of no use to you and the optics sub forum would be the right place for you. |
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Originally Posted By Yumago: So I don't have to read through about 1000 pages what is a suitable modern scope that I can actually find easier. The rifle will more or less be clone correct but not too worried about having a newer scope on it. I was looking at the NXS 2.5-10x42 Compact View Quote Mk6 is you best bet for a newer optic while still being correct. Attached File |
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1) Have not heard great things about the Mk6 3-18s
2) There's a thread over on the site who shall not be named from like 2011, that contains pics of a late Mod 0 in the armory, on an XM16E1 lower receiver complete with bakelite black A1 grip. Look for "Unique AR: XM-16 E1 turned SPR (with pics)" |
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View Quote Nice setup. What pelican case is this? |
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Origionally Posted By sparticus2002:
Of course the Electoral system is a threat to democracy; it's specifically intended to be a threat to democracy, because we aren't a democracy |
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Origionally Posted By sparticus2002:
Of course the Electoral system is a threat to democracy; it's specifically intended to be a threat to democracy, because we aren't a democracy |
its old style 1700, mod 0 correct...which is what the mod H needs. foam is different and the case lacls metal.reinforcements at lock holes ans the corner bumpers are different.
:) |
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Hi all,
I'm still on a quest to have a Mk12 barrel spun to "real" NATO spec. I ordered an AEM5 suppressor through HCS recently, and while on the phone with them, I asked if they happened to have the real blueprints on hand for the barrel. The answer was no, unfortunately. Is there anyone out there with a real Mk12 "take off" barrel that would be willing to work with me so we can reverse engineer the thing and get proper dimensions blueprinted? I plan on having Compass Lake Engineering spin the barrel, as I feel they have the best overall barrel manufacturing experience among the "big 3" aftermarket barrel sources. I will gladly pay a considerable fee and/or provide a piece of rare collateral in return as assurance that you will get your barrel back in the same condition. My feedback rating is also flawless across several firearms forums, so hopefully that should help ease one's mind as well. Know I will not rest and will not stop posting in this thread until I get a taker! Cheers! |
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Originally Posted By wally05: My dealer received my AEM5. Gotta go in and do the paperwork tomorrow and wait like ... a year to be able to enjoy it. But at least the process is started. I'm enjoying this rifle quite a bit. Just need to get it settled in and group it. View Quote Just filled out the form for my RC2 Today. My AEM5 earlier this year came back under 6 months. Here’s to hoping we both get the same treatment on our latest purchase lol |
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Is there any place with AEM5’s in stock currently? I’m having trouble finding one using Google searches.
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“Always love your country — but never trust your government!" - Robert Novak
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Originally Posted By Paulie771: Is there any place with AEM5’s in stock currently? I’m having trouble finding one using Google searches. View Quote Try giving High Caliber Sales a shout, Kevin might have them on hand. I don't believe his website shows inventory though, so shoot him an email |
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I ordered an AEM5 last month through HCS and Kevin told me there was a 4-6 week production backlog at that point in time. I still haven't received word that the suppressor was built or being shipped yet... YMMV
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Originally Posted By bachn2324: Just filled out the form for my RC2 Today. My AEM5 earlier this year came back under 6 months. Here’s to hoping we both get the same treatment on our latest purchase lol View Quote @bachn2324 Haha, I can only hope. My FFL did say that they've been seeing about 5-6 months recently. My RC2 from 2018 took 11.5 months. :*( @Paulie771 I bought mine from DSG Arms last week and with the LE / Mil discount, it was extremely well priced. It wasn't listed as knurled, but I saw it at my dealer and it is knurled. They are beautiful cans. It's the first time I've seen one in person. |
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my AEM5 came in and I went up yesterday to do a test run with my Mod 0 and H. Both only get 3 full turns. I know it's in this thread but I can't find it. Where/who are you sending your collars to be turned down? Thanks guys.
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WTB: Pelican 1700, especially a Mk12 issue case.
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Originally Posted By unstabl: my AEM5 came in and I went up yesterday to do a test run with my Mod 0 and H. Both only get 3 full turns. I know it's in this thread but I can't find it. Where/who are you sending your collars to be turned down? Thanks guys. View Quote I run my 0 with 3.5 turns. The Holland shouldn't have any obstruction though, I suggest shimming the brake |
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Originally Posted By unstabl: my AEM5 came in and I went up yesterday to do a test run with my Mod 0 and H. Both only get 3 full turns. I know it's in this thread but I can't find it. Where/who are you sending your collars to be turned down? Thanks guys. View Quote Order a new collar from Ron. Measure the diameter of the barrel before and after the step the collar sits on. Then measure the distance from the bare muzzle to the step. You need this in inches out to 3 decimal places. Send him an email, which can be found on his site. This will ensure you get the recommend 8-11 turns. Don't be that guy running your can on 3.5 turns. |
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Originally Posted By stainlineho: Order a new collar from Ron. Measure the diameter of the barrel before and after the step the collar sits on. Then measure the distance from the bare muzzle to the step. You need this in inches out to 3 decimal places. Send him an email, which can be found on his site. This will ensure you get the recommend 8-11 turns. Don't be that guy running your can on 3.5 turns. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By stainlineho: Order a new collar from Ron. Measure the diameter of the barrel before and after the step the collar sits on. Then measure the distance from the bare muzzle to the step. You need this in inches out to 3 decimal places. Send him an email, which can be found on his site. This will ensure you get the recommend 8-11 turns. Don't be that guy running your can on 3.5 turns. Ouch ETA: Took a little bit to find, couldn't remember where I saw it The contract prints were too short, the Mod 1 barely aleviated this problem but the original SPR rifles get about 2.5-3 turns with the cans. So there's that. 3.5 turns may be an unpopular number of turns, but for the sake of clone accuracy here...long collar and the PRi fsgb, thats as good as it gets with a fair majority of mk12/ops profiled barrels on the market. You can shim the brake, pull the distance out a bit more that way, but unless you run a short collar or trim the absolute shit out of that long collar, which will be nearly the same length as the short when finished (roughly 200 thou longer per my measurements with a CLE barrel)...you'll never hit that 8-11. As for the Holland, I don't know why you would only be getting 3, is it certainly an AE collar? What barrel is it? Is the brake timed proper? |
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My issued SPR upper got about 3 turns, same with about every guy I know that has had one. Issued Mod 1s a couple more turns.
Issued Holland on the other hand swallows the can, ludicrous amount of turns. I think like 8 or more. No issues there either. Have not yet had an instance of can backing off with only 2-3 turns, haven't blown my endcap out. |
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My Mod1 with OG barrel gets 3.5 turns.
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-Things do not happen. Things are made to happen. -JFK
-Beware the fury of a patient man. -Thousands and thousands of laws....All for just ten commandments. -"alot" is not a word. |
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Originally Posted By lancecriminal86: https://i.imgur.com/Ni8XJyK.jpg View Quote I hope that's an unobtainium part in there |
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Originally Posted By lancecriminal86: https://i.imgur.com/yzB0EK7.jpg View Quote God damn. The jealousy i feel right now cannot be put into words |
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Originally Posted By kmcale: God damn. The jealousy i feel right now cannot be put into words View Quote I must say, I admire anyone who has the dedication and focus to track down a rare piece like this just for the sake of "clone correctness." Some call it a sick obsession. I call it having one's priorities in order. :) |
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Originally Posted By lancecriminal86: I can retire now. Needs coating whenever I can get that done and get the right coating done to match the faint rose-gold hue of the other issued handles I have seen. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By CPshooter1: No shit! On the other hand, I don't think I want to know what lance had to do to get his hands on a "welded hotdog." I must say, I admire anyone who has the dedication and focus to track down a rare piece like this just for the sake of "clone correctness." Some call it a sick obsession. I call it having one's priorities in order. :) View Quote I'd say he got a great great deal on it. Glad you like it, homie and glad I could help you out. |
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"Endeavor to Persevere."
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Originally Posted By stainlineho: Order a new collar from Ron. Measure the diameter of the barrel before and after the step the collar sits on. Then measure the distance from the bare muzzle to the step. You need this in inches out to 3 decimal places. Send him an email, which can be found on his site. This will ensure you get the recommend 8-11 turns. Don't be that guy running your can on 3.5 turns. View Quote Recommended amount of engagement is 6-8 turns. If you are more than 10 the end of the brake gets too close to the first baffle. |
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Originally Posted By JAR-SPR: Recommended amount of engagement is 6-8 turns. If you are more than 10 the end of the brake gets too close to the first baffle. View Quote Not to mention when you start building up carbon, you'll be kissing that first baffle every time. I get 7 turns on my HCS barrel and some days it feels like it touches |
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Originally Posted By mdavis: I have two uppers for a Mod 1 build and I'd like to see which everyone thinks is more correct. I have a "raised C" split-A upper like the picture below (gratuitously borrowed from a member selling a similar upper in the EE) and a "stamped C" Cerro forge keyhole upper. My Mod 0 will already be using a "raised C" AF upper so that's spoken for. Thanks. https://i.imgur.com/19Zq7Tv.jpg View Quote Stamped C Cerro is what I went with for the Mod 1. I think I remember seeing a photo of a fair bit of them assembled with Cerro's, though I have no idea if that was contract or for commercial market. |
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Originally Posted By LsuJon: Mk6 is you best bet for a newer optic while still being correct. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/316069/B6E9B900-D5A6-48F2-A641-24A5472A650E_jpe-1632331.JPG View Quote +1 It is light years ahead of any of the original issue optics without being much larger or heavier. I was a big fan of mine and ended up using it 90% of the time over Vari X III tacticals, TS30s, and Mark 4s. Reticle choice is also great if you like trees. Certainly crosses the line though if you are an originalist. |
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Originally Posted By mdavis: I have two uppers for a Mod 1 build and I'd like to see which everyone thinks is more correct. I have a "raised C" split-A upper like the picture below (gratuitously borrowed from a member selling a similar upper in the EE) and a "stamped C" Cerro forge keyhole upper. My Mod 0 will already be using a "raised C" AF upper so that's spoken for. Thanks. https://i.imgur.com/19Zq7Tv.jpg View Quote I built my mod 1 upper with the same new old stock raised C/split A upper. I like using odds and ends uppers for clone builds. That upper is from the late 90's/early 2k time frame, its good to go |
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Originally Posted By lancecriminal86: SNIP I'd hate to have to resort to Cerakote, but I know Ankratz's work is second to none when it comes to various colors and finishes, as exemplified by his tanodized and DD brown work that you really have to know what to look for to tell it from the real thing. The other issue, coating will probably mean stripping the anodizing, which is not something I want to happen more than once. It's risky to have anything done at this point so I will be proceeding very carefully and only if I'm 100% satisfied that I will achieve what I want with it. View Quote Maybe look at a PVD finish in the tone/hue you want. Richter Precision in Easton PA does an excellent job with varying finishes. They'll only accept work from an FFL, and they have a minimum order quantity, but it might be worth exploring something like their Champagne Richkote finish. Just a thought. |
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Originally Posted By System Message:
Why can't you guys participate in a simple discussion about some guy's mom making a porno without violating the COC? This is why we can't have nice things. |
Thanks for the replies guys. I’ll see what I come up with this weekend when I get some free time.
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WTB: Pelican 1700, especially a Mk12 issue case.
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There was a guy on here once turning out faux AEM5s but can not find anything using the search. Does anybody remember the username? I'm curious if it's possible to make one into a form 1 can.
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Admit nothing. Deny everything. Make counter-accusations.
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Originally Posted By hamrad: There was a guy on here once turning out faux AEM5s but can not find anything using the search. Does anybody remember the username? I'm curious if it's possible to make one into a form 1 can. View Quote @HARMS4X though I don't know if he still posts much/at all anymore. |
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Without blood, it doesn't count!
"A gun, like any other source of power, is a force for good or evil, being neither in itself, but dependent upon those who possess it." |
Originally Posted By lancecriminal86: @Nutro I appreciate you going through with it, and hope to hook you guys up in the future when I can. As to coatings, NP3 or some early iteration of it was experimented with on the SPR prototypes (the whole upper, charging handle, and possibly the BCG were coated), and every early SPR I've seen has the NP3 coated charging handles on them. I actually called PRI today to verify that was the case. Sometime later it seems NP3 changed, as I swear the issued and prototype NP3 coatings have a gold or rose gold hue to them. In contrast, current NP3 is more like a polished nickel like you'd see on a handgun, or more gunmetal even. PRI sent me a pic of an original issued SPR charging handle they still have next to a gasbuster they had but never released which was silver/gray. I've found places that do NP3 but the color just doesn't match my expectations from what I am seeing. At one point the Fortis Hammer charging handle was offered in some "other" nickel teflon finish that allegedly wasn't NP3, and it seems to take on that color that I'm looking for. But, if they went through Robar, Robar is dead so who knows. WMD isn't doing customer coating due to COVID so can't really explore their version of nickel teflon. It's the next ongoing quest to resurrect some process or coating from 2000-2001 that has long since changed, just like we did with KG's original batch of their FDE color that turned orange/pinkish hued as seen on usmcsgt0331 and ObiWang's uppers, the Sara Jane rifle, etc. I'd hate to have to resort to Cerakote, but I know Ankratz's work is second to none when it comes to various colors and finishes, as exemplified by his tanodized and DD brown work that you really have to know what to look for to tell it from the real thing. The other issue, coating will probably mean stripping the anodizing, which is not something I want to happen more than once. It's risky to have anything done at this point so I will be proceeding very carefully and only if I'm 100% satisfied that I will achieve what I want with it. View Quote |
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So I followed up and emailed the actual company that owns the NP3 process. Per their COO who's been there 30 years, NP3 never changed really as far as formulations, but he did indicate that the golden hue can show up based on heat. I'm not sure if that's heat during coating, or heat after coating like a bake process, or what. Either way, I'm going to see if he has any more input on particularly where in the process I could have someone introduce enough heat to impact the coloration.
If I can't, I'm trying to see if Fortis would forward my handle to the guys that did their charging handles a few years back that were a similar finish with a rose gold hint to it. I'm not having anything done until this process is 100% figured out. There's too few early patent pending handles for me to risk one getting ruined in the stripping process, or if I hate the finish and am permanently stuck with it. |
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Originally Posted By lancecriminal86:I'm not having anything done until this process is 100% figured out. There's too few early patent pending handles for me to risk one getting ruined in the stripping process, or if I hate the finish and am permanently stuck with it. View Quote |
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