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Posted: 4/23/2010 6:01:27 AM EDT
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Ok, let me start by saying I am not familiar with all of the proper names of things on the AR, so please bear with me.
On my upper, right behind where the spent cases are ejected there is the raised area, I assume this is some type of shell deflector. Well when my cases eject they hit this area, is this normal? It is getting quite worn already and I can only see it getting worse. I don't know if this matters or not, but I will mention it. I went shooting with a buddy last weekend, and when I would shoot, my shells would ground nicely on the ground, but they were about 10 feet to the right and about 4 feet behind. My buddys gun grouped them nicely on the ground also, but his were about 5 feet directly to his right. I would think the rubbing on the deflector area and the extreme rearward ejecting would be connected somehow, thats why I mentioned it. Thanks for any and all help |
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Perfectly normal if you are worried about the deflector getting worn but some black electrical tape on it. I personally think it is a badge of honor showing that your rifle is not a safe queen.
Every AR I have/had ejects slightly different which is normal because the ejector tension on each is slightly different. Their is a picture circulating around that shows bad places for a rifle to eject to I am sure someone will chime in and post it. |
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Don't get too hung up on this graphic. If you're rifle is ejecting reliably, regardless of the direction, be happy. All too often folks see this chart and realize they aren't in the 'perfect ejection' zone, and then start messing with springs, buffers, gas blocks, and whatnot when there is absolutely no need. I have 4 ARs and they all eject differently from about 1:30 all the way back to about 4:30. |
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Wow, great chart! Thanks for that mathecb!! Very much appreciated. Thanks |
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Different ammo ejects somewhat different . I prefer a 2 oclock eject but with this you have to make sure you ejection path is clear to prevent bounce back which can be not safe. Order a couple ejection springs, some pins for loss, and using a dremel stone grind one down till it just fits in with a tiny tiny press to reset the pin that holds it. Sometimes they use the wrong spring or the depth is off where the spring fits in , making it too strong. You can get it to where the shell ejects without hitting your rifle and thats where it should be .
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Quoted:
Don't get to hung up on this graphic. If you're rifle is ejecting reliably, regardless of the direction, be happy. All too often folks see this chart and realize they aren't in the 'perfect ejection' zone, and then start messing with springs, buffers, gas blocks, and whatnot when there is absolutely no need. I have 4 ARs and they all eject differently from about 1:30 all the way back to about 4:30. +1 If your rifle runs reliably, don't mess with it. |
| If you really want to get fancy, you can trim your ejector spring down a coil or two and get the brass to dump out closer to you, as opposed to flying several feet away. I did it with the bolt in my service rifle upper and it made picking up brass at the matches a piece of cake; it was all right there next to me in a neat little pile. |
| Testing reloads in my .204 was entertaining because with each powder I had to find the first piece of brass after the first shot. The restof the brass from that powder would be in a cluster right around that when I went to pick them up. They varied from being flung 10' to the 4 o'clock to 5' to the 1:30 to just clearing the ejection port and rolling across the shooting table. The only change made was the ammo. |
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