AR Sponsor
Posted: 11/24/2009 2:05:13 PM EDT
| Hey guys, I was recently attempting to remove the castle nut from my DPMS lower so I could install a magpul ASAP adapter, and I have to say, even while I was using the proper tool, it is almost impossible for me to budge. It doesn't look like the nut is staked (like my BCM was), but its 10x harder to remove. I still haven't removed it. Is there any chance that DPMS used loctite on the lower? |
|
I have a MI Screw on mount...in fact, I just removed it, but damnit I loved the MP ASAP so much on my other tac rifle, I wanted it on this one as well.
I might have to get another goddamn BCM lower if I can't get this off. By the time I'm done it might be torn to ^$%@! |
|
Quoted:
I think I read on their forum that they do use Loctite and they do suggest you use heat to over come the Loctite. A little heat if it does have locktite, but I am sure that if you put some muscle into it you can get it to come loose or break something and injure yourself, either way something will happen if you force it to. |
For screws that have lock tight that are a little stubborn, I take my soldering iron and touch the screw until it gets hot and then take it out. This reduces the strength of the lock tight and makes is a hell of a lot easier to undo  I don't see why you couldn't do this with an AR |
|
Quoted:
Hey guys, I was recently attempting to remove the castle nut from my DPMS lower so I could install a magpul ASAP adapter, and I have to say, even while I was using the proper tool, it is almost impossible for me to budge. It doesn't look like the nut is staked (like my BCM was), but its 10x harder to remove. I still haven't removed it. Is there any chance that DPMS used loctite on the lower? You say "tool" in the singular form. Are you not using the proper vice block also? How are you securing the receiver? WIthout properly securing the receiver, you are going to have a hard time with any castle nut. |
|
Just to bring this thread up to date, apparently the lower I had has a "k" serial number, which means that DPMS merely supplied the lower and someone else (possibly the gun store I bought the lower from) had assembled it.
It was nearly impossible to remove. Here is what I had to do. Well, I heated the nut, first only a bit, and then massively, and it wouldn't break free. I even tried a pair of channel locks (LARGE) and couldn't get it free. I did call in and try to get some feedback on alternatives, but none was really possible. The receiver serial ends with a K, so apparently, even though I bought a complete lower, someone other than DPMS assembled it. I tried unscrewing the buffer tube, the castle nut, with a vice block in a vice, and no dice. I was about ready to get out the dremel, when I figured I would try one more thing. I placed the lower on my cleaning matt on the concrete. I placed my knee on the MOE pistol grip at the join point with the lower. I locked the channel-locks on the nut and torqued it with all of my strength, and it finally broke free. The nut was trashed (expected after the whole fight), the tubes threads were marred (perhaps its ok, but it might not be round anymore, I had a replacement so I let it go), and I looked at the threads. Ugh, dredded red loctite. |
|
Quoted:
I don't think DPMS does, I know RRA started using loctite. I wish I could explain my method of removing stubborn receiver nuts, buts its hard over the net
get good leverage, make sure the lower is supported, and give it some muscle! This^^^ I could not budge my RRA castle nut, even with a propane torch on it. Dremel it off.. |
|
For a castle nut with loctite I put the lower in the deep freeze for a few hours. Then I put the end of a brass punch in one of the notches and give it a good whack with a hammer. Someone here on arfcom suggested it and I tried it. It works. I guess the cold either makes the loctite brittle so a hard impact can break it or the different metals contract at different rates in the cold and that loosens the bond. When I get done I use a hair dryer to dry out any condensation in the lower.
|
AR Sponsor