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Posted: 10/28/2009 6:04:58 PM EDT
| Can I take an H2 and CAR buffer apart, and make two H buffers? |
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Last night I made the H buffers, but did not get the weights of everything.
It took a matter of minutes to do. The tungsten weights are a lighter shade of hue than the steel, so it is easy to tell what is what. I put the tungsten weight in first. I will weight them both and see if there is a difference. What is reprocipicle weight? |
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Yes, you can do it with no problem. I've even had custom made weights so I could upgrade a BUNCH of Carbine buffers to H and H2 (I run H2 in all my carbine 14.5" and carbine 16"). It's just a cylinder of Tungsten but you have to get the right density. You can EASILY tell the Tungstens from the Steels because the Tungsten is significantly heavier...
The Tungsten weights GO IN THE BACK of the buffer as shown in Randall's photo: Carbine = Pad / Steel / Pad / Steel / Pad / Steel / Endcap H Buffer = Pad /Steel / Pad / Steel / Pad / Tungsten / Endcap H2 Buffer = Pad / Steel / Pad / Tungsten / Pad / Tungsten / Endcap I've take apart dozens of Carbine / H / H2 buffers (all factory buffers) and they were all built this way. |
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Quoted:
What is reprocipicle weight? The amount of weight that moves inside the buffer as opposed to the weight of the entire buffer assembly. I attempted to disassemble a couple of buffers and could not get the plastic part to come loose, at least without using destructive means Any hints?
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Quoted:
Quoted:
What is reprocipicle weight? The amount of weight that moves inside the buffer as opposed to the weight of the entire buffer assembly. I attempted to disassemble a couple of buffers and could not get the plastic part to come loose, at least without using destructive means ![]() Think of, " the part that moves." 458 |
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Quoted:
I attempted to disassemble a couple of buffers and could not get the plastic part to come loose, at least without using destructive means Any hints?Take a pair of channel lock pliers, open it up so that you can get a good grip on the plastic endcap but without crushing it too bad (maybe the second channel) and the grip the endcap as close to the base as possible (as close as to the metal body). Then just twist and turn and it will come off. You can also use a little Kroil (or some other ultra thin penetrating oil) and it'll make it easier. Also, when you put it back on, I generally just put some light lube on it, wipe off all the excess and it will go back on with a little hit of a hammer (I use one of those nylon head hammers). |
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Any hints?