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Posted: 3/15/2009 12:01:01 PM EDT
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I just spent the better part of a day putting a parts kit in my Lower. I bought a 4 lb trigger kit from Bill Springfield. The parts came very quick and Bill was top notch. It took about 3 tries for me and my son to install the trigger and hammer and then the safety wouldn't go in. I come to find out there is a weld on the bottom rear of the trigger. I had to file this down to get the safety in. I'm thinking it has to be a trigger stop.
Then the best part after 4 hours. I function test and everything checks O.K.. and Then I put the trigger pull gauge on it and it's 5 maybe 6 pounds. It's crisp and it's right there, But it's heavy. The springs might lighten up a bit with time. The gun isn't going to be a target gun, But after all this work, I was really looking for a better pull. I really don't want to pull this trigger out again. Any Ideas? |
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Quoted:
I probably would have contacted him directly vice posting it here. He has a good rep and would probably work with you on it. FWIW....  i have to agree, exactly how is posting here going to solve your problem? Bill is a true craftsman, a rarity in today's hi-tech world. I'm pretty sure he will fix or tweak your trigger to your satisfaction. I know he did for me. |
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Quoted:
I just spent the better part of a day putting a parts kit in my Lower. I bought a 4 lb trigger kit from Bill Springfield. The parts came very quick and Bill was top notch. It took about 3 tries for me and my son to install the trigger and hammer and then the safety wouldn't go in. I come to find out there is a weld on the bottom rear of the trigger. I had to file this down to get the safety in. I'm thinking it has to be a trigger stop. Then the best part after 4 hours. I function test and everything checks O.K.. and Then I put the trigger pull gauge on it and it's 5 maybe 6 pounds. It's crisp and it's right there, But it's heavy. The springs might lighten up a bit with time. The gun isn't going to be a target gun, But after all this work, I was really looking for a better pull. I really don't want to pull this trigger out again. Any Ideas? Put the gun back together with the stock trigger as it was mfg. and call it a day? |
| that welded spot got in the way when installing a safety as well. the simple fix was to instal the safety and then the trigger. if you not happy with it let bill know, it only takes a minute to pull the fcg group out and mail it back. i had a problem with the disconector and it was fixed promptly. |
| The weld was there to take up the extra creep in the trigger. When you ground it down you likely took the contact area back where it was originally and out of the area that Bill worked on. I would be very surprised if the weight was that high before filing the stop down. Send Bill a e-mail. He will take care of it. |
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I ran into this as well. I called Bill for help and as lucky_dog stated, the solution is to install the selector first, then slide in the trigger assembly underneath. You pretty much undid Bill's work with your filing. If you aren't using one, get a punch set and use it to help align all the parts in the lower and us it as a guide for the trigger pin - pull it out as you slide in the pin.
Rob |
I had the same problem with the safety not going in because of the trigger stop Bill installed. I emailed him and he said simply install the safety first, then the trigger and then the other parts as normal. Worked like a champ. I got the 4lb kit (JP service rifle springs) and my trigger pull gauge read 6+ lbs avg when I first tested. I'm using it for a while and see if it goes down a bit. If not, then I'm going to install a yellow JP trigger spring. I also got the chopped hammer upgrade. Nice crisp trigger with no creep  .
Bill does good work and I'm going to send other FCGs to him for service. |
| I had the same problem. After about 1 minute of looking at it, I figured I would have to install in the manner described above. It would be nice to know that first, but it was easy to see the problem also. I shot about 50 rounds the other day (cleaning after every few) to break in the barrel. The trigger felt very smooth and if fell right off to fire––very nice. I have not weighed the pull because it feels just right. |
| Not to disagree with the above suggestions, but you can also "change" the weight of your trigger pull by changing where you put the scale hook. My Browning Hi Power would show about 4 lbs if I put the scale on the very tip of the trigger, 6-7 lbs if in the middle of the trigger bow. |
| I had the same problem, because I did not understand that I needed to install the safety first and then the trigger. I filed off the bump he welded on, and the trigger was back to about 7 lbs. I emailed Bill, and he said that the bump was put on there for a reason. I sent it back to him and he redid the trigger for just the shipping back to me ($5). Now it is a crisp 4 lb. Email Bill and he will put it back to his specs. |
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Sounds like Bill needs to hear this feedback so he can send a simple direction sheet for re-installation so this type of thing doesn't happen.. Not to say that it won't or he needs to do it but it might be in his advantage.
I was just thinking of sending out 3 trigger groups to Bill for 3lb jobs. |
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Well, Bill is an honest hard working man that gets people triggers for lower prices so they can enjoy them. I don't think he is running for setting up a brochure for his trigger that will raise the cost.
Either way, as others have stated, I had this problem, got on the net, 10 minutes later I realized that I could rearrange the sequence in which I installed the lpk and it worked. Think twice, post once. And on another note..... I ordered quite a few triggers from Bill, but I have to agree with the OP as far as pull. |
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Well, I contacted Bill and I will say he has been up front and top notch through this. I Migged the bead back and filed it down to .040. The trigger was still heavy. I touched up acouple of surfaces with some 400 grit on a flat surface and it seems better. Nowhere near a 4lb trigger.
Bill seems to think the the Hammer spring is heavy and suggested storing it with the hammer cocked. I'll give that a try. First I think there should be some kind of paperwork with this trigger talking about exactly what was discussed here and the chance that the hammer will need to be left cocked. If I had to do it again I would probably go for the JP yellow spring kit. I understand it also comes with instructions for cleaning up the mating points. I am also concered with the fact that some of these hammers and triggers may only have surface hardening. Can doing a trigger job wear the hammer and trigger out faster? |
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