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Posted: 2/14/2009 9:04:46 AM EDT
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Can someone tell me if the FSB has to come off in order to install a delta ring? I know it does for the barrel nut, but for some reason I thought a delta ring could be installed without removing the FSB.
Also, one other question: Does the Vortex slide over that fatter part of the barrel? I know the Phantom butts up to the fat part of the barrel, but I thought the Vortex slid over the larger part of the barrel. Thus having more material to drill into for pinning? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! |
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If anyone has could point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it. Thanks http://www.ar15.com/content/manuals/TM9-1005-319-23.pdf |
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No, the delta ring snaps on to the rear of the barrel nut. FSB stays put. The Vortex fits flush against the barrel shoulder. It doesn't extend over the barrel. Thanks! That is what I thought, but could not remember for sure. I thought if I needed to remove the FSB, I might as well go with a FF. |
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The Vortex fits flush against the barrel shoulder. It doesn't extend over the barrel.
Really? All of the pics that I see, look like the flats where your wrench is placed during installation / removal slide over the barrel itself. Therefore when pinning, you would not be drilling directly into the threads, but into the larger diameter of the barrel. Anyone have a pic of the Vortex threaded end? PIC PIC 2 These pics make it look like it slides over the barrel some? |
| You have to remove the FSB in order to install the delta ring and barrel. In order to remove the FSB you have to have the FS off. I have a pinned phantom on my 14.5 and i almost goofed. if you have a A2 front sight you have to install the barrel nut and delta prior ring prior to pinning the FS. Otherwise you will not be able to remove the front sight post. |
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You have to remove the FSB in order to install the delta ring and barrel. In order to remove the FSB you have to have the FS off. I have a pinned phantom on my 14.5 and i almost goofed. if you have a A2 front sight you have to install the barrel nut and delta prior ring prior to pinning the FS. Otherwise you will not be able to remove the front sight post. Not according to this. Quib is correct, the delta ring can be installed without removing the FSB from the rear of a removed barrel. Like I said, the barrel nut is already installed and the barrel is not mounted. Should be no problem with the delta ring. Thanks for the reply ETA: page 153 |
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Has anyone used this setup from Smith? The pre-drilled holes look like they would slide over the shoulder. Any idea? http://<a href=http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/8673/predrilledvortex2co7.jpg</a> <a href="http://g.imageshack.us/img6/predrilledvortex2co7.jpg/1/" target="_blank">http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/predrilledvortex2co7.jpg/1/w500.png</a>" /> No, the Vortex shoulders off approximately where the wrench flat surface starts at the base of the FH - i.e. - it only overhangs the barrel shoulder by about 1/10" or so, IIRC. Hope this helps. |
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Has anyone used this setup from Smith? The pre-drilled holes look like they would slide over the shoulder. Any idea? http://<a href=http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/8673/predrilledvortex2co7.jpg</a> <a href="http://g.imageshack.us/img6/predrilledvortex2co7.jpg/1/" target="_blank">http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/predrilledvortex2co7.jpg/1/w500.png</a>" /> I have the Vortex on three rifles. The the rear of the Vortex basically fits flush against the shoulder. The flats (and the pre-drilled hole) are located over the threaded part of the muzzle. If the shoulder stopped where you indicated, the threaded part of the barrel would extend into the flutes and it wouldn't be long enough to "legalize" a 14.5" barrel. |
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I would suggest that you try 1100 degree silver solder yourself for permenately attaching your muzzle device. After I had a vender from this site "botch" a blind pin job on my LMT, I had to take it to a local shop and have it re-welded to cover up their mistakes. I then dremeled and sanded it before finishing it with Durabake. It ended up looking good, but shouldn't have been that much trouble, especially from a "well known" shop.
I switched to a PWS FSC556 and used the 1100 degree solder method and I won't ever go back to the blind pin method after seeing how easy the soldering was. Below is a link to show how easy the silver soldering is, as well as cost effective and also photos from others, including me that used this process with good results. Well worth you checking into. http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=407395 |
| Thanks for the Info IN Trooper. I have done a couple with Brownell's Fusion in the past, but I was able to twist them off with a wrench and vice after and decided to have them blind pinned. My guess is that I was not getting it hot enough, but I tilted the barrel back so that I could tell when it flowed. Obviously, I did something wrong. This is the reason that I am thinking about the blind pinning, but I have not done this myself before. |
Use the correct solder and it's super easy! The best thing is that if you want to change the muzzle device, all you have to do is re-heat, twist said muzzle device off and replace. I took mine to a local shop and had them heat it with a welding torch. Just make sure that you use 1100 degree solder to make it BATF compliant. I placed mine in a vice afterward and it wouldn't budge.
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Use the correct solder and it's super easy! The best thing is that if you want to change the muzzle device, all you have to do is re-heat, twist said muzzle device off and replace. I took mine to a local shop and had them heat it with a welding torch. Just make sure that you use 1100 degree solder to make it BATF compliant. I placed mine in a vice afterward and it wouldn't budge. Thanks again for the reply. This is the stuff that I was using, but did not have any real success. It can be found HERE Mfr: FUSION In Quickly-Applied Paste Form FUSION solders come already ground in their own special flux in the right proportions. Lowest temperature, high strength brazing alloy. For tight fitting joints, with minimum amount of fill. Use on ramps or ribs where the fit is very close. SPECS: Melts at 1145° F. 1 oz. (28 g) jar. What did you use? Maybe the stuff that I used was the problem 
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I used the #56 found HERE and what is nice is that it comes in a syringe. I am sure that what you bought from Brownells is fine, you probably didn't heat it high enough.
Here is how you can somewhat tell how high you are heating: Temperature Color Fahrenheit 752 Red heat, visible in the dark 885 Red heat, visible in the twilight 975 Red heat, visible in the daylight 1077 Red heat, visible in the daylight 1292 Dark red 1472 Dull cherry-red 1652 Cherry-red |
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