AR Sponsor
Posted: 10/3/2008 2:39:06 PM EDT
| I would like to start using steel targets like the ones in most major competitions (as seen on shows like Shooting USA). I would like to be able to use AR's and .45's/9mm's on them. What kind of steel and what thickness is used? I.e., if I go to the local machine shop to have them whip some up, what do I ask for? |
|
Totally depends on what you shoot it with. I use 500 Brinell HV steel (for using .223). Works great with all pistol calibers. You can order them from online vendors. I've used http://www.letargets.com. They have steel plates, pepper poppers, etc. You do need to consider distance when shooting steel. Back splatter is a real issue. Most vendors don't recommend using FMJ with steel targets and recommend being at least 50 yards away when using a rifle. I've shot pistols at close range but I have been hit with splatter. It does sting. |
|
This is what you're looking for: PORTATARGET 1) It doesn't take much to stop pistol rounds. 2) Speed Kills - it's the velocity of the bullet that takes it's toll on the steel; above 3000fps, you're going to damage even the best steel plates. |
| The splatter from FMJ that was mention previously is real! Hits can really sting and hits to tender areas could cause damage so please remember your eye protection. 3/8 stell will handle 9mm and 45 at a distance but will leave dents. Standard FMJ 223 will go clean through 3/8 without even moving the plate... For longevity, I would ask for 1/2" mild steel if you shooting 9mm/45 out of an AR at handgun distances. 3/8 might handle at 100yds... |
|
I looked into having a few local metal shops cut me some 3/8" plates. Most places wanted minimum orders of $150-200 for raw product, plus labor charges to cut it into shapes. I finally decided that unless I was going to get 10+ plates, I was better off just buying commercial. I also read that lots of rifle hits can make AR500 steel pit and change the splatter, so AR550 was preferable. You might ask somebody who owns some, because I haven't taken the leap yet. |
| AR500 is usually the material of choice. I work at a steel shop and haven't seen any AR550, but we don't make targets very often. I've made targets from 1/2" AR450, and they work great against pistol, but for rifles (and really even for pistols) you really need to set up some way for it to "react", i.e. to move with the impact. Knock down targets work well, but you have to reset them after every hit. I like swinging targets on a fixed post since most of the fragments will go downward. Chain works as well but has a tendency to allow the target to move backward instead of rotating if you hit it above the centerline requiring the steel to absorb a lot more of the energy. The reaction of the target allows it to deflect a lot of energy rather than absorb it and confirms your hits. Unless you are planning to drop a fair chunk of change on this project I would suggest one of two routes. Either give up on the idea of longevity and buy some scrap mild steel (be careful, the edges of the craters and holes get really sharp and they're covered w/ lead to boot), or buy from a commercial target maker. I'm a fan of Mike Gibson Mfg. and have heard good things about www.letargets.com. |
|
Recommend you don't have your "local machine shop whip some up" if you want good targets that will last and are built to solid specs. ++++1 for Mike Gibson. I have a number of his targets including a plate rack, rifle "flash targets", and a cross-over for shoot-off competitions. It don't get any better. I also have Porta Target and Action Target steel. They each have their advantages and disadvantages compared to each other. Gibson's customer service is second to none. Action good as well. Not sure about Porta Target any more since the founder sold to Savage and retired to the mountains. I've heard some disturbing comments lately. 
|
|
I usually find scrap steel on the side of the highway and road. Won't hold up to rifle rounds, but I put some holes in it and find some new ones. I've also had some pretty good steel and the 223 will put some hurt on it after awhile. Just don't go shooting it with a Garand. |
|
The 1/2" plate above has taken a 200 rd belt of 308 and has been shot w/ 50 bmg FMJ at 100 yards. It has been going strong for 4 years now and has taken thousands of shot, mainly 223, 9mm and 45 acp. The only problem will be the edges get ripped up from losing the hardening from being cut and it will get bowed a little. Just flip it around to shoot it back flat. Its AR500, normal steel will not take it. It has very small pits from 223, just barely visible. 458 has done the most damage with the flat 405gr bullets. 50 BMG will flip it over but the plate is fine. The splatter will eventually cut through the 3/4" bar stack of the frame. its on it 5th or 6th frame- can't remember. It cost 60 USD and a bigger 18x18 cost me 140 IIRC |
Thanks for the information. The Porta-Target plates I have are several years old and have given outstanding service. I might need to look elsewhere for future purchases. |
AR Sponsor