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8/17/2008 2:26:37 PM EDT
is it necessary to stake it or will just tightening the screws suffice?
8/17/2008 2:27:38 PM EDT
[#1]

Quoted:
is it necessary to stake it or will just tightening the screws suffice?


The Std. Allen type screws need to be staked.
8/17/2008 2:34:56 PM EDT
[#2]
they have to be staked or everything stops. there is no end to all the problems that happen when they are not.
8/17/2008 2:42:46 PM EDT
[#3]
You will here "the loc-tite works fine"tighten them down and then stake them there is no substitute for the job being done right and from a thread a few days ago there seems to be a sealnt put on before staking down the key.I think some one said Dennys heavy duty BCGs are done tha way.
8/17/2008 2:54:03 PM EDT
[#4]
is staking it difficult? should i have it done by a gunsmith?
8/17/2008 2:58:41 PM EDT
[#5]
www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=2&f=130&t=160446
8/17/2008 2:59:57 PM EDT
[#6]
You could use a flat head screw driver..I use a small set of bolt cutters by rounding the cutting edge and it comes out like factory..I just squeeze from the sides after locking the carrier wraped in a piece of cowhide into a vise.
8/28/2008 11:02:15 AM EDT
[#7]
has anyone ever tried welding there's on? im curious to see how that would do
8/28/2008 11:08:36 AM EDT
[#8]
Welding/loctite and such are a little too permanent for the purpose of the staking.  The key needs to be secure with the ability to quickly remove/replace if need be.  Properly staking it allows this to happen, and it just happens to also fulfill the need of the extra vibration protection to keep the screws from walking out...

In short - just properly stake the damn things!  
8/28/2008 11:09:40 AM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:
has anyone ever tried welding there's on? im curious to see how that would do




It may become damaged or worn/bent and you need to be able to remove it so that it can be replaced.

Edit-- What Quicksilver said...
8/28/2008 12:02:26 PM EDT
[#10]
Okay, as far as a "sealant" on the gas key, I'd personally not use Loc-Tite red.  The Red hardens, and a hardened sealant isn't the best for sealing against a gaseous leak.

If you're dead set on sealing the mating surfaces between the key and the carrier, a VERY nice non-permanent yet gas-sealing adhesive is Permatex Hylomar HPF.

It's a gasket sealant used in the automotive industry that has a thick tacky gel consistency.  It's rated for -60 to +600 degrees farenheit, and remains pliable which gives it great gas sealing characteristics.

It's also "ready to go" once applied (you don't need to let it dry).  And it's easy to remove the gas key bolts and clean it off the surfaces if disassembly is needed (unlike Loc-Tite red).

I don't think you really NEED a sealant, but this stuff pretty much rules if you find it necessary to seal the key/BC.

Just add a thin coating to the mating surfaces, then a bit to the threads...  THEN STAKE THE ASSEMBLY ONCE INSTALLED...and you're all set.
8/28/2008 12:19:22 PM EDT
[#11]
The reason for the staking is the key will heat much faster than the screws.  When the key is about 100 F hotter than the screws, the screws will yield, becoming ever so longer than the key.  That means they are now loose.  Without staking, they can now fall out.  But with staking, they stay in place and slowly heat to the same temp as the carrier, restoring the tension and all is fine since the screws will also cool slower than the carrier key.
8/28/2008 12:25:19 PM EDT
[#12]

Quoted:
Okay, as far as a "sealant" on the gas key, I'd personally not use Loc-Tite red.  The Red hardens, and a hardened sealant isn't the best for sealing against a gaseous leak.

If you're dead set on sealing the mating surfaces between the key and the carrier, a VERY nice non-permanent yet gas-sealing adhesive is Permatex Hylomar HPF.
www.45degree.net/parts/parts_polish/hylomar_img.jpg
It's a gasket sealant used in the automotive industry that has a thick tacky gel consistency.  It's rated for -60 to +600 degrees farenheit, and remains pliable which gives it great gas sealing characteristics.

It's also "ready to go" once applied (you don't need to let it dry).  And it's easy to remove the gas key bolts and clean it off the surfaces if disassembly is needed (unlike Loc-Tite red).

I don't think you really NEED a sealant, but this stuff pretty much rules if you find it necessary to seal the key/BC.

Just add a thin coating to the mating surfaces, then a bit to the threads...  THEN STAKE THE ASSEMBLY ONCE INSTALLED...and you're all set.


Whiskey
Tango
Foxtrot?!

I've never in my life known anyone to use such a product on the carrier key...
8/28/2008 1:08:23 PM EDT
[#13]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Okay, as far as a "sealant" on the gas key, I'd personally not use Loc-Tite red.  The Red hardens, and a hardened sealant isn't the best for sealing against a gaseous leak.

If you're dead set on sealing the mating surfaces between the key and the carrier, a VERY nice non-permanent yet gas-sealing adhesive is Permatex Hylomar HPF.
www.45degree.net/parts/parts_polish/hylomar_img.jpg
It's a gasket sealant used in the automotive industry that has a thick tacky gel consistency.  It's rated for -60 to +600 degrees farenheit, and remains pliable which gives it great gas sealing characteristics.

It's also "ready to go" once applied (you don't need to let it dry).  And it's easy to remove the gas key bolts and clean it off the surfaces if disassembly is needed (unlike Loc-Tite red).

I don't think you really NEED a sealant, but this stuff pretty much rules if you find it necessary to seal the key/BC.

Just add a thin coating to the mating surfaces, then a bit to the threads...  THEN STAKE THE ASSEMBLY ONCE INSTALLED...and you're all set.


Whiskey
Tango
Foxtrot?!

I've never in my life known anyone to use such a product on the carrier key...


Well, now you have!

And, it's mentioned elsewhere that people/companies have used "sealants".  

No, it's not necessary, but there ARE people with OCD on here.
8/28/2008 1:23:19 PM EDT
[#14]

Quoted:
Whiskey
Tango
Foxtrot?!

I've never in my life known anyone to use such a product on the carrier key...


From the Colt Maintenance Manual........

8/28/2008 2:01:20 PM EDT
[#15]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Whiskey
Tango
Foxtrot?!

I've never in my life known anyone to use such a product on the carrier key...


From the Colt Maintenance Manual........

img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Metroliner/carrierkeysealant.jpg


My -23 states a few rounds may need to be fired after carrier key replacement to "seal" this joint.
8/28/2008 2:06:59 PM EDT
[#16]

Quoted:
My -23 states a few rounds may need to be fired after carrier key replacement to "seal" this joint.



Correct. The -23&P states to fire blanks to seal the key.
8/28/2008 2:39:34 PM EDT
[#17]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Whiskey
Tango
Foxtrot?!

I've never in my life known anyone to use such a product on the carrier key...


From the Colt Maintenance Manual........

img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Metroliner/carrierkeysealant.jpg


I've read that, but I just don't interpert it the way Steve/you do I guess.  I can't seem to find a specific reference to the sealant used, or a P/N...
8/28/2008 3:30:08 PM EDT
[#18]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:
Whiskey
Tango
Foxtrot?!

I've never in my life known anyone to use such a product on the carrier key...


From the Colt Maintenance Manual........

img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Metroliner/carrierkeysealant.jpg


I've read that, but I just don't interpert it the way Steve/you do I guess.  I can't seem to find a specific reference to the sealant used, or a P/N...


Company secret.  Colt sells to civillians.  FNMI cannot.  Colt cannot disclose.  The Permatex product will work fine, making a good seal the first time instead of having to fire blanks as described in the -23 TM.
8/28/2008 3:30:58 PM EDT
[#19]
I'm totally blanking on the company that makes the Enhanced Bolt Carriers, but don't they use red Locktite to seal the key to the carrier?

Would it really matter though with the heat generated from firing? I'd imagine that the heat would eventually weaken the Locktite to the point it just crumbles.
8/28/2008 3:38:43 PM EDT
[#20]

Quoted:
I can't seem to find a specific reference to the sealant used, or a P/N...


Neither can I. I’ve searched the entire manual for a Consumables Table for a P/N or NSN and found nothing.

This same subject was recently discussed. I posted that same manual excerpt and someone here responded with the sealant used. I’m not sure though what type sealant it was.

8/29/2008 5:16:37 AM EDT
[#21]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I can't seem to find a specific reference to the sealant used, or a P/N...


Neither can I. I’ve searched the entire manual for a Consumables Table for a P/N or NSN and found nothing.

This same subject was recently discussed. I posted that same manual excerpt and someone here responded with the sealant used. I’m not sure though what type sealant it was.



And that's why I interpret it differently (that the carrier key is sealed via the securing screws to the carrier) vs. sealed with some kind of high temp sealant.  Oh well, you learn something new every day, and I guess this is it!
9/1/2008 8:14:22 PM EDT
[#22]

Quoted:
You could use a flat head screw driver..I use a small set of bolt cutters by rounding the cutting edge and it comes out like factory..I just squeeze from the sides after locking the carrier wraped in a piece of cowhide into a vise.


The bolt cutters sound interesting, appreciate any more details on the bolt cutter.
- Nominal length of bolt cutters
- Model number / brand
- Photos  


Had been thinking about making a punch / die for the press (a little over kill, but have two bolt carriers now to stake, after several years of shooting NFA ;-).
9/1/2008 8:35:52 PM EDT
[#23]
Theres no name on mine except the name made in china but they look like the ones a school janitor would have for lockers just way smaller 15" long.On the jaws theres the rounded bottom and the sharper angled top.I dremeled the sharp part down and reshaped the bottom.Put the carrier in the vise and squeeze
9/1/2008 9:10:18 PM EDT
[#24]

Quoted:
Theres no name on mine except the name made in china but they look like the ones a school janitor would have for lockers just way smaller 15" long.On the jaws theres the rounded bottom and the sharper angled top.I dremeled the sharp part down and reshaped the bottom.Put the carrier in the vise and squeeze


Something along the lines of the following ($23):

One possible down side if one would slip, might do a little damge
9/2/2008 5:57:39 AM EDT
[#25]
A dull chisel or an old straight slot screwdriver are what I use.  They work very well in accomplishing the task of staking...
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