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Posted: 5/2/2008 10:29:03 AM EDT
| I just got a new Magpull CTR kit. I have never had a problem with the castle nut comeing off befor, I just used blue locktite. I want this one to be installed corectly I'm going to use blue locktite and stake it. Can some one please tell me how they have staked there castle nut on. Should I just get a center punch and wack it with a 3lb hammer or will that be to much? Thank you for any info. |
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I did the same thing on my Vltor kit a couple of years ago, used blue Loctite, center punch and I did a light hit first to make sure I'm centered (or very close to center) in the middle of the castle cutout, then gave it a good whack. I used my other LMT carbine's factory stake job as an example and just copied it. There was a thread here which a member used a drill to put a drill start at the center of the notch then staked it to get a more accurate location. |
| I do it with a center punch as well, much like the above posters, by starting lightly to dent the surface enough to keep the punch centered. I then fallow with a couple light hits to move enough metal into the staking recesses on the castle nut. I skip the locktite though and lightly grease the threads of the lower and extension before torquing. |
If you gotta do it, go for the center punch method. It doesnt take much to do the job if it's been properly tightened and loktighted to begin with. Plus, if you only stake lightly, you dont have to totaly fubar the nut and or tube if you change your mind down the road. I know others disagree, but I feel the same about the carrier key. No need to flow enough metal to start another AR Firm and tight. ( insert joke here )
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| You just wrench it off like you normally would. The stakes will break after some pressure is applied. Its a small amount of metal, only enough to keep the vibrations from loosening the nut but not enough to make it difficult to remove. It is more difficult to remove a castle nut with loc-tite than it is to remove a staked nut. |
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Firm and tight. ( insert joke here )
