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5/1/2008 3:16:59 PM EDT
I have a stainless varmit rock river upper on the way, i want to get rid of the silver finish, can i paint the stainless??
5/1/2008 3:24:53 PM EDT
[#1]
I'm not stopping you.

Do what you want with your barrel.
5/1/2008 3:26:02 PM EDT
[#2]
You can paint your wagon!
5/1/2008 3:27:39 PM EDT
[#3]
I whould
5/1/2008 3:28:57 PM EDT
[#4]
Dunno. Can you?

What kinda skills you got yo?
5/1/2008 3:32:23 PM EDT
[#5]
search Duracoat on the net and buy away. What i wanna know is can i paint my bullets. I bought em brass but i'd like them to match my rail covers
5/1/2008 3:39:16 PM EDT
[#6]
Just dont use cheap shit.
5/1/2008 4:00:14 PM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:
search Duracoat on the net and buy away. What i wanna know is can i paint my bullets. I bought em brass but i'd like them to match my rail covers


Huuuum
5/2/2008 5:28:33 AM EDT
[#8]
you can blue it or parkerize it. Call Brownells.com they could probably point you in the right direction.
5/2/2008 6:01:13 AM EDT
[#9]
Just remember that your barrel gets hot... hot enough to burn off most paint.  Additionally, many paints won't hold up to the solvents used to clean a rifle.

Your best bet is a finish designed for firearms (i.e. Duracoat) or a bake on finish.

With that said, high temp barbeque paint would probably work fine.  Wally Mart has it for less than $4 a can.

My $0.02,

- AG
5/2/2008 6:07:36 AM EDT
[#10]
Norrels Molyresin comes to mind.
Check that product out. Thank me later.





HUNTER.
5/2/2008 6:10:05 AM EDT
[#11]
DuraCoat+Beta Mag = noxious fumes and billowing black smoke. I couldn't figure out what was going so I kept shooting.  Maximum Smudgekins LOL

The rifle was MagPul OD Green and black furniture. It looked pretty good until I cooked it.

ETA: Can you?  Yes of course. DuraCoat sticks to children stainless. Aerosol can from the Lauer website.

5/2/2008 6:12:35 AM EDT
[#12]

Quoted:
you can blue it or parkerize it. Call Brownells.com they could probably point you in the right direction.


No you can't blue or parkerize stainless.

You can black oxide, or if you want a durable self applied color, use a ceramic based paint.

If you are going to coat the bbl, blast it first with a coarse compound so that it has a frosted appearance, and that there will be enough "tooth" for the finish to adhere to.
5/2/2008 6:16:51 AM EDT
[#13]
Nevermind
5/2/2008 6:17:59 AM EDT
[#14]
go with dura coat or or a teflon coating. I would suggest avoiding all rattle can paints. I have had to many nightmares with that stuff.
5/2/2008 6:54:09 AM EDT
[#15]
Duplicolor wheel paint if you want to go with gray, black, or white. It resists solvents, chipping, and heat. Just scuff the barrel with a brillo pad and clean it with alcohol.
5/2/2008 8:21:38 AM EDT
[#16]
Norell's or Kal-Guard if you want to do it right.
5/2/2008 8:30:57 AM EDT
[#17]
Having used both Duracoat and Norrells, I feel that Norreells is a FAR superior product. Much tougher than Duracoat, and it sprays better. Baking isn't that big a deal.
5/2/2008 8:39:02 AM EDT
[#18]
Duracoat is fine for stuff you can't bake but it is not the equal of Ka-Guard or Norell's.
5/2/2008 8:46:41 AM EDT
[#19]
sandblast it
5/2/2008 8:58:55 AM EDT
[#20]
Can of Krylon camoflage would work.

Av.
5/2/2008 2:41:13 PM EDT
[#21]
Instead of DuraCoat, Lauer also makes DuraHeat for high heat applications.  This is a ceramic based coating that will withstand temps up to 1800 degrees according to Lauer.
-JD
5/2/2008 2:48:29 PM EDT
[#22]
The best I've used is Alumihyde from Borwnells. You don't have to bake it. You do have to be patient. It dries to the touch in a few hours but fully cures in about 2 weeks. It's tough as nails when cured. I used it on my stainless bull barrel and several other guns. Never disappointed.
5/2/2008 3:26:39 PM EDT
[#23]
Krylon is fine.  It won't come off if hot and you can just spray again when you need.  
5/2/2008 3:31:58 PM EDT
[#24]
I used the cheap heat resistant paint for mufflers, BBq grills . I seemed to work fine and didn't scratch off too quick.
5/2/2008 4:18:36 PM EDT
[#25]

Quoted:
I have a stainless varmit rock river upper on the way, i want to get rid of the silver finish, can i paint the stainless??


You might be satisfied with a sandblast job on the barrel, which will give it a gray matte (non-reflective) finish. Or, you could have it blasted, then paint it with one of the bake-on coatings, like 'Dark Parkerizing or Satin Black. What you cannot do is have it blued or Parkerized.
5/2/2008 4:46:41 PM EDT
[#26]
I would use the Norrells, love that stuff
5/2/2008 5:49:47 PM EDT
[#27]


I guess i have asked the wrong people.


Maybe wrong place.


www.ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=6&f=19
5/2/2008 6:22:08 PM EDT
[#28]
Don't you have to bead blast before using norrells on a stainless barrel?
5/2/2008 6:32:40 PM EDT
[#29]
You can wrap it in black electrical tape , it always worked for stickball bats. I'm thinking you may get a little sticky the first time out though. Pick up some gloves.
5/2/2008 6:47:22 PM EDT
[#30]
Man, this got rather childish quickly.

To answer your question, you can send it off to Springer Precision and get it IonBonded with the DLC coating.  Go to springerprecision.com I wouldn't mess with anything else.
5/3/2008 8:42:36 AM EDT
[#31]

Quoted:
you can blue it or parkerize it. Call Brownells.com they could probably point you in the right direction.



No, you can't.
5/3/2008 8:47:16 AM EDT
[#32]
Several courses of action.

YOu don't need the whole barrel sandblasted, just the part that shows.  Stop of the bore, protect the crown at all costs.

Sandblasting alone will get rid of the shine and make it appear a dull gray that blends in with either rural or urban environments well.

Once sandblasted, you can shoot on a few coats of Molyresin or other baked on finish.  That works well.

I once sent a stainless Armalite AR-10 barrel to Olympic Arms to be "black oxided".  Took a few weeks, until they next time they ran a batch.  Cost was about $125 total, if I remember correctly, but that some 7 or 8 years back.  A nice, dead flat finish.

Personally, if it was mine, I'd just sandblast from the gas block or FSB on up to the muzzle and be done with it.
5/3/2008 8:47:38 AM EDT
[#33]

Quoted:
Don't you have to bead blast before using norrells on a stainless barrel?


Yes and no.

Yes, if it is a polished surface, such as most blued or stainless.

No if it is a rough surface, like anodized aluminum receivers or parkerized steel.  If so, just thoroughly degrease and then you are ready for Molyresin application.
5/5/2008 1:02:25 PM EDT
[#34]

Quoted:
I'm not stopping you.

Do what you want with your barrel.

And you are a frickin' moderator.
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