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Posted: 3/1/2007 2:17:26 PM EDT
| Can someone help me out here. I have a Rock River Entry Tactical Carbine and I got this stock and it want fit on the buffer tube already on my gun which I found to be odd. Anyway, it came with a new tube, is there a particular type of tool/wrench I have to use in order to get my original buffer tube off to get this new one on? Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks. |
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the VLTOR utilizes a mil-spec buffer tube which is a bit smaller in diameter than the commercial version on your Rock River. That's why the VLTOR won't fit on your rifle without removing the RR buffer tube. You will need to purchase an AR multi-tool or a castlenut (the notched ring you see on the buffertube against the receiver) specific wrench. -don't attempt to remove the castlenut with anything other than these particular tools (IMO, get the multi-tool as you may need it to remove a barrel or flashhider later) seperate the receiver halves. depress the little pin at the rear/inside of the receiver and remove the buffer and spring. using a propane torch, heat the castlenut along it's entire circumference. while still hot begin backing the castlenut off the receiver, being careful that the receiver end plate doesn't pop off and you lose the spring and detent. (receiver end plate is on the outside of the receiver, held in place by the castlenut) slowly twist the buffer tube out while ensuring that the buffer retaining pin (on the inside of the receiver--the pin and srping are held in a compressed state by the lip of the buffer tube) aren't lost. after removing the spring/detent behind the end plate and the buffer retaining pin/spring--unscrew the buffer tube from the receiver. replace with mil-spec tube in reverse order. Rock River, unless things have changed, uses red loctite on the buffer tube threads to ensure the tube doesn't come loose. THIS is the reason you must heat the parts before attempting disassembly otherwise you WILL bugger up the castle nut. A heat gun does not work for this (at least in my experience) you will have to use a propane torch. edited for some semblance of clarity |
in all honesty, it reads more difficult than it really is. Without photographs, and the benefit of taking the assembly apart as I type, my "instructions" aren't the clearest. IMO, this is something that you can do yourself. One of the first modifications I made to my first AR was removing the factory collapsible stock. I borrowed the tool and purchased the propane torch (about $20). |
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ya know, you coulda stepped in here a little earlier...like before I took the time to type the original reply.  to the OP, get the manual, do it yourself, report back if you have any problems. |
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OMG, no need to heat the castlenut. If you get a multi tool, it have enough torque to get it off. If not, put a socket wrench on one of the holes to get the extra leverage. I used a simple spanner wrench for the buffer tube and a metal pipe as leverage to get it off. Here are some sample links: www.talonarms.com/talonarms/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=328 www.cactustactical.com/osc/product_info.php?products_id=76 www.fulton-armory.com/M6Tools.htm P.S. Watch out for the rear take-down pin spring. It is right behind the buffer tube plate and will JUMP when you remove the buffer tube. |
If we were talking about any other manufacturer I'd agree with you. Most manufacturers peen or stake the castlenut in place. Not Rock River arms. They use Red Loctite on the buffer tube threads. Believe me when I tell you that direct heat to the castle nut for a minute to a minute and a half will loosen the red loctite. Before buying the propane torch, I tried: Kroil, gun oil, WD40 all of which were given several hours of penetration time. After which I tried sheer force. Followed this with heat from a heat gun (most often use to shrink wrap) with absolutely no luck. Hit it with a propane torch for a minute or so (NOT on the receiver) and the nut backed off no problem. |
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