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Posted: 11/9/2006 4:32:40 PM EDT
| Would appreciate some feedback from you pro's on my first AR. Let me start by running down some things I know I want to go with. #1 - I want a "varmint style" set-up. Flat top, tube forend. 20" bbl. No CAR or "entry type" CQB weapon. #2- No iron sights. Not big on stainless barrel, prefer chrome-moly coated, but can live with "the shine". I will mount a scope with tactical mounts instead of any dot type optic. To give you a better idea of I want, it would be along the lines of a DPMS varmint, or RRA varmint / coyote. #3 - Should I build, or look for complete rig off the rack? Would like to get away with complete gun for under a grand, with as many accuracy bells & whistles as possible. My main use will be for predators & plinking out to 300-400 yrds. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. I have two custom bolt guns, but the builder's not into semi-autos. What would be an optimum trigger set? My bolts break @ 30 to 32 ozs. That may be too light for this gun? |
I would look at a pre-build rifle. As this is your first. Look at the RRA and Bushmaster and DPMS varment type. You would be best going SS as far as barrel. Wont wear as much as a crome-moly (unlined) barrel. You lose some accurisy with a crome lined barrel but it last longer. You can always have the barrel KG coated or Duracoated. And Welcome to the site!
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| Thanks, gentlemen. This is helpful info you've given. 1/2" @ 100 sounds good. 24" is a bit long for what I want. A buddy of mine had a "sweet sixteen" that would clover shots at a 100, but I don't want a little stubby gun either. I mentioned DPMS & RRA because they look to be reasonably priced. I'm sure the BM, Armalite, & Colts are as good or better, but they seem to be a little more proud as far as the $ go. I'm interested to understand about the bolt/carrier setup as far as being chromed for smoother operation, and any little options that a novice such as myself may overlook. By the way, the recent elections worry me. I'm a card carrying NRA member and support 2nd Amendment to its full extent, but I figure I better move quick before the "LIBS" try to bring up the assualt weapons sh*t. |
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I have a DPMS 20" Panther Bull. Locally they go for around $900. They are also available with a JP trigger for another $150.00 installed. It's nice if you are picky about triggger pull. It will break crisp and clean and on my rifle is set around 2 lbs. I don't like to go much lower than that ona rifle I use in the field. I have a Nikon 6.5-20X44 Monarch scope on it and get .5 MOA accuracy with 5 shot groups using Black Hills Ammunition's Blue Box 55 grain FMJBT. My best groups have been as low as .4 MOA and even when hot (50 rounds over 10-15 minutes) the barrel still delivers 1 to 1.25 MOA accuracy with no change of point of impact. It makes a great varmint rifle. It has a 1 in 9 twist barrel which is perfect for 55 grain bullets, handles 50 grains equally well, and does well with 62 to 69 grain bullets. From what I have heard mileage varies with 75 grain bullets and I have not tried them myself. I prefer to use 55 grain bullets as they are accurate, cheap in the BHS factory box (about 23 cents per round), and even cheaper to reload (about 13 to 15 cents per round). And at ranges out to 350-400 yards they give up very little to the heavier rounds. I have a 16" bull barrelled upper arriving shortly that will go on a DMPS receiver and I plan to compare the two side by side. Velocity wise you lose about 120 fps with the 4" reduction in barrell lenght but accuracy should still be very good from the short heavy barrel. It will be a little lighter and more portable but should offer the same accuracy potential. I have a 4.5 to 14 Nikon ready to go on it which will keep the weight down slightly compared to the bigger 6.5-20 Nikon. A 24" bull barrel is in my opinion too long and adds another pound of weight on what is already a fairly weighty rifle (my 20" weighs 13 lbs with scope and bipod) Plus you only gain about 55 fps with the extra 4 inches of barrel. If you go long on the barrel fluting will help keep the weight down and speed cooling, but you will give up a little stiffness. |
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Thanks DakotaFal. I actually have a Nikon 6.5 x 20 44mm w/ illuminated retical I plan to mount on this rifle along with Warren tactical (3 screw) rings. For some reason my red retical quit working, so it's either green illumination or standard black, no big deal. So far, the key things I've picked up is a) Go with a 1 in 8 or 1 in 9 twist for sure to cover a somewhat wide spectrum of bullet weights, but stick to the lower grain rounds for optimum perf. b) Do something with the trigger, be it an aftermarket, or tune what I have if possible. I see in the forums where you pros prefer to match a lot of different brand as far as uppers/lowers and everything in between, but I assume a complete rig will safice. Again, thanks for helping, God bless our right to bare, and screw the anti's. |
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I've only been around this site a few months (after taking a vacation from AR shooting for a decade or so). It appears to me there are more or less 3 groups with regard to AR brand loyalty. 1. Those who have strong loyalties to specific brands, Bushmaster, RRA, etc, 2. Those who have strong loyalties to decent parts at a not too outrageous price and, 3. Those who feel parts are parts and place the focus on the quality of assembly. Personally, I don't think you would go wrong buying a Bushmaster, RRA or DPMS rifle. They all come ready to go, shoot very well and run reliably. Of course...once you buy one, you start craving another...and another...and another and that tends to be where the mixing, matching and building your own comes in to play...then of the next step is where your spouse checks you into an AR rehab program to help you kick the habit. |
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