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Posted: 6/2/2006 6:56:43 AM EDT
| I am going to get a heavy buffer to help slow down the cycle rate on my M-4gery. It ejects spent brass towards the 2'oclock position and leaves a little dent in each case. A heavier buffer should help slow the b/c down enough to change the ejection pattern and maybe not dent the cases. Since I have a standard CAR buffer in now should I go to an H, H2 or H3 buffer. I am leaning towards an H2 buffer. Any opinions???? |
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I had a regular buffer in my FIBERLITE tele stock when I switch to VLTOR stock wich comes with a H buffer it wont lock back with regular 223 loads but with M193 I have no trouble I would use what ever makes your rifle run 100% BTW the 9mm weighs a little less than the H3 and MIGHT be cheaper |
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In Christopher Bartocci’s Book, “Black Rifle II, The M16 Into The 21st Century,” he writes (Page 95): “…a new heaver M4 buffer, designated the H2, was designed to enhance reliability by preventing any possible bolt bounce due to the extremely high cycle rates of full-automatic fire.” On page 322 Bartocci writes, “The H2 buffer is designed for use in the M4A1 Carbines (full-automatic fire ability). As of this writing, Colt does not sell any carbines with this buffer installed.” Bartocci writes elsewhere in this book that the H2 (and H3) Buffer is part of the M4A1 Carbine SOCOM Reliability Parts Kit, and will be installed as needed by military SOCOM armors in M4 and M4A1 Carbines. As I understand Bartocci’s buffer use explanation, the types of buffers in use with the M4 type carbines are: Two-Piece 9mm SMG buffer for use in the 9mm caliber submachine guns; Three-Piece ‘Commando’ buffer, marked ‘C,’ for use in the M4 carbines with 11.5-inch barrels; M4 Buffer, marked ‘H’ for use in M4 carbines (semi and three-round burst only) with 14.5-inch barrel; M4 Buffer, marked ‘H2’ for use in the M4A1 carbines (semi and full-automatic) with 14.5-inch barrel; M4 Buffer, marked ‘H3’ for use in the M4A1 carbines (semi and full-automatic) with 14.5-inch barrel (used to slow cycle rate). Of course, all of this is not to be confused with the standard and unmarked buffer that is to be used in the 20-inch barreled rifles. For me, in my M4 Carbines I use the Colt H2 buffer from Specialized Armament. I get 100-percent reliability in full and semi-automatic fire. I suggest you do the same. |
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Here is my dillema. The issue with my M-4 (semi-auto) is more annoying than anything. I have fired 300rds through it and only one failure to eject (empty case stuck in the action). Other than that it cycles fine and shoots great. It is just annoying that it sends brass ejecting forward instead of to the side or rear. The brass only touches the front flat edge of the case deflector. I am only shooting American Eagle .223 through it and I am concerned that with a hotter load it might not eject correctly. I figured that a heavier buffer might help slow the bolt down enough to get the spent cases ejecting more towarrd 90 degrees instead of 30-45 degrees. Plus the buffer spring seems much softer than the one in my other AR so I don't know if that is part of it. Maybe I am making a big deal out of nothing. Don't know! |
Okay, part of the problem is that not every manufacturer uses the same spec in the gas port size, and that the gas port size DOES NOT remain constant throughout the life of the barrel. The gas port enlarges from erosion as the life of the barrel advances. On top of that, not all springs are made right either, and some may just start failing early. The goal for tuning the action, is to balance the pressure coming from the gas system, with the mass of the moving parts in the bolt/carrier/buffer group, and the recoil spring stiffness, so that the cycling is at a normal speed and no battering of the parts is present, and the reliability is flawless with the variety of ammo you plan to use. If you select a very wide range of ammo power, you might not get ideal conditions with the strong ammo, as you do with the weak ammo. The gun is not magic. It needs a certain amount of gas pressure to work, and this is set at the gas port with the type of ammo that is desired. If you have a big gas port to work with underpowered ammo, it will be way too much gas pressure with NATO-spec ammo, and you'll get battering and overly high action speeds. If you set the gas port diameter to work best with NATO-spec ammo, it will short stroke with weak ammo. A heavier buffer will reduce cycling speeds and change ejection pattern, but it may or may not be reliable in your gun, depending upon what size gas port is present, and how powerful the ammo is, and what the ambient temp is, and how strong the spring might be. Experimentation with various things can help you to fine tune the action, IF you know what you are doing. |
Trim a coil off of the ejector spring, or the extractor spring.. I dont remember which but someone may come along who knows which one. This willl solve you ejection path dilemma. A buffer wont. DO NOT- DO NOT -DO NOT fiddle with the gas port!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You may end up with a gun that doesnt cycle at all!! |
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I agree with what Gmtmaster said about not doing anything to the gas port. Don't try to fiddle with the gas port. If you must play around with things, then do it with things that are easily put back where you started. Also, don't go cutting any coil off the extractor spring either. You need all the extractor tension you can get. |
| I know that it isn't the extractor or ejector spring because I switched out the bolt with one from my Bushy (which ejects fine) and it ejected exactly the same. I don't want to even mess with the gas port and I don't want to spend a ton or money. The problem is that I don't know if anything is wrong or this AR just happens to function diffrently from my Bushy. Manufacturer says that if it cycles reliably and ejects then it meets their specs. |
If it's reliable why are fluckin with it? Do you have 1911itis? The case is hitting the shell deflector and because you are using non GI spec [lighter load] ammo it goes at a different angle. Have you tried using some GI spec ammo yet? Lots of ARs and M series guns ding the brass a bit. My GI one did it all the time but it always ran so who cared. Reliablilty is #1, go from there carefully. Your angle of ejection might also change as your gun breaks in. Run it for a while then go from there if you so desire. Try different ammo also. |
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