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Posted: 3/17/2006 6:39:09 AM EDT
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Well i'll be damned, the cool factor on that thing is waaaaaaay too high! Awesome looking.
HUNTER. |
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Looks pretty good. I'd love to have my AR done up in multicam, but it is very expensive. With my full AR setup, it would cost over $600.....
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DIY |
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I want to know what the guy holding the gun is wearing - I can't find him.
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Best approximation of MC on a rifle that I have seen yet; but the green is too bright. It should be more drab.
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+1 Maybe it's my monitor but the underlying colors don't seem to jibe with the green (which looks like it was sprayed last.). I like the pattern though. |
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The price for this is $315.00 There are discounts for Military & L.E. Personnel.
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My question was regarding payment to Crye. |
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Duracoat's Woodland Green should be renamed Zombie Green or Hulk Green.
I have purchased Tiger Stripe Camo packs from Brownell's and they contain that dayglo green. Yuck. |
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Yeah, I don't know that I'm that adventurous just yet... |
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Really? I figured it was the higher price of $425 as listed on their website, since it isn't a "standard" pattern. They list the $425 price as being for the Mirage-Flage, so I figured it would be the same for Multicam. Add in $75 for an optic, $45 for a combat light and $30 for each magazine, and it adds up in a hurry. That is $545 before any magazines are done. I also have an M203 and Gemtech HALO that I'd want painted as well, so call it a "barrel" and a "lower" for pricing purposes. That adds another $365 to the cost. Crap, now I'm looking $1,000 or more! Maybe if I had Bill Gates checkbook.... I wonder if the finish would even hold up to the temperatures generated by the suppressor? |
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They look great, the green is a tad bright as mentioned already, but there seems to have been no attempt to fade the colors within a given 'blob'. The technique required for that is easy enough if I could get my hands on a good stencil. I was wondering a few weeks ago what a soft-edged multicam would look like, doing it without a stencil and just using an ultra-fine aribrush tip.
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That's the LCW camo pack with templates for you- the templates are peel and stick and if you spray too much, you are going to get a really sharp edge. You'd almost have to do like professional airbrushers and have the templates cut out of mylar or something a little sturdier and hold them over the desired areas as you spray- just a tad over the surface so you don't get hard edges.
$30 to spray a mag. Sheeeit... That rifle actualy looks nothing like the background it's on. There is WAY too much white splotches- look at the stock. If you look at the MultiCam and actually count the number of shapes per square foot, the rifle is probably double the number on the fabric... |
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Jospeh, they don't list a multicam template on the website, is it new and not listed? It would certainly simplify the process a great deal.
I have decent skills with an airbrush, I've won awards in regional scale model contests. But I have ZERO experience with the paints like duracoat and molyresin. Do they mix/reduce similar to a laquer enamel? I can see issues with blending the colors into a 'fade' if they do not. The consistency of the paint will have to be nearly exact between the two colors along with air-pressure and angle/distance or the finish will be different. How about things like hardener, it needs to be mixed with the paint at the time it is sprayed rather than being a separate topcoat right? I see: very light tan light tan light brown dark brown medium green (and significant mixtures/blends of the above) Anyone here with enough experience with these colors to provide recomendations? Jospeh is right, using colors off the intardnet or even printed brochures is not very helpful compared to the human eye. I looks like they did a faded background of tans, and one pass of a green fade but then applied the dark brown and very light tan as blobs. The blobs might be best done with the templates/masks frisket, probably even the green fade since there are a few hard edges on it too. That method means there will be up to five layers in some areas, is paint buildup a consideration with duracoat? |
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There is no Stencil Kit available from LCW as of yet. We did this by hand. There shouldn't be a build up of DuraCoat if done correctly.
If you could feel this weapon the finish is very smooth and not a ripple or a bump on it. The swatch of Multicam that we have pictured with the weapon will always photograph different because the material has an intergrated IR Structure. If you look at Genuine Multicam material thru your standard Digital Camera it will seem to give off a Blue look. Multicam is even effective thru NVG's. most Black materials and standard camo seem to look like a bright gray thru NVG's TM M1 |
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I didn't mean to criticize your camo job that much. I usually come off as a real a$$hole to begin with. Edbert- I'm not really sure how many colors are on that Multicam rifle. Maybe GhilleTim will answer that and let us know which ones. The hardener has to be mixed with the Duracoat itself-unfortunately. The hardener is the consistency of KARO syrup or fiberglass resin and DC isn't that thin to begin with. I would recommend using their thinner although an MSDS (or brochure?) on the Polane-T (from Sherwin Williams which is supposedly all DC is ) lists the preferred thinner as a mixture of almost 70% lacquer thinner, almost 20% acetone and then the remaining is a bunch of other nasty looking junk. I use lacquer thinner to clean my airbrush. Straight Acetone seemed to not mix so well with the stuff and break it up and I had gotten "floaters" in one bottle once that wouldn't break up any further... Wierd. It's pretty easy to get Duracoat colors to have the same sheen as long as you mix the hardener the same but that's chore in itself when you are only mixing small amounts. It's a pita to mix one tablespoon of hardener and get all of it out of your measuring device into a small glass bottle... I just assumed LCW made a multicam stencil kit. There was a guy on AR15.com that had made some stencil kits- I might have seen them there... We need a refinishing forum GD-it!!! |
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Joseph,
No harm no foul. Thats the reason i posted the pics, we want feedback either positive or negative it makes us better. Yeah the hardener is like Log Cabin syrup that has been sitting in the fridge. Yeah we have seen people get the polane from Sherman Williams and they seem to have a hard time geting the mixture correct to get it like out of the can DuraCoat. If the ratio's aren't correct it gets kinda funky to work with. So have an abacus handy!! The number of colors in Multicam can vary because of the fading and shading they have. We used around 6 colors, which we had to mix to get a close as we could. Since we had to mix the colors i really don't have names to share. We will use the same amount of hardener for each color to get the same sheen. But we also use the Matte Clear over the entire weapon and accessories which is awesome when it's done. Some people seem to freak out over pricing to do this to a weapon and accessories. But they don't seem to realize how much work it is to do what we do. From the Complete Disassembly and Reassembly of the weapon and the accessories. If anyone has ever Disassembled Completley and Reassembled a Harris Bi-Pod they know what that entails, and not to mention then the time it takes to stencil the weapon and accessories. Lets get a Refinishing Forum started!! We're for that! Thanks everyone! Tim McGann M1 TACTICAL Austin, Texas |
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Oh, I have no doubt there is a TON of work involved, and it probably takes a good week or two to get everything broken down, prepped, painted a few times (various colors), cured, cleaned, reassembled and shipped. I've love for my AR15 to be Multicam, but I've got so many other projects right now that require cold, hard cash that spending $1k to get it done just isn't in the cards. Now, if you want to provide a deep discount in exchange for using my bad-ass Multicam'ed AR in advertising for future business, let's talk! |
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What finish is that? DuraWhatever, Norell's, GunKote? I really, really want an OD rifle. Also, is that a POF? If it is, is that a P-4X, P-9X orP-12X and what flip up are you using? I have a POF with a P-4X rail and don't care for the factory front sight. TIA, TS |
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Yes!! we at M1 are total fans of Soft camo or as we call it "Dirty Camo" it is the most effective by far.
But something has to be said about Multicam, for a "pattern" it is very effective in any surrounding. I don't want to sound like were trying to sell everyone on it but we like it. There isn'tany Black or White in Multicam. The dark color is avery dark Brown and the Light color is a stone color. With the photos we took the Flash and the white balance adjustment on the digital camera makes the light stand out. Dirty Camo is our forté check out the SIG SHR970 on our website. We dida pattern we call "Der Geist" and that weapon Disappears as it should. DER GEIST Thanks again! Tim McGann M1 TACTICAL Austin, Texas |
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Very nice work there. I was gonna say that looks like the hog-country around here then I noticed you guys are in Austin...no wonder! Our property is between Fredricksburg and Llano, a bit east of Enchanted Rock.
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Yes!! Plenty of Hogs around here. We have these "Greenbelts" aound here and the ones in the photos are directly behind my home and we have Hogs, Turkey and of course Coyote running in there.
Turkey season opens soon!! Gobble Gobble! |
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+1 |
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I don't know about that- it kinda makes the rifle look like a red doberman in the 6th picture... |
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Yup, don't lay it on the ground and walk away! |
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JosephR we make Mult-Cam Stencils, armacoat.net if you want to check it out. All info is on the webpage.Hope it helps in hopefully your upcoming projects.
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predatorcustomshop.com/Carnivore.php |
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Hell Yeah |
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