Unless you're married to that foregrip, I'd go with more of what you know, and are comfortable with.
Unless you are going to constantly adjust the buttstock, you can remove it, and replace it with a Cavalry Arms C1 buttstock. It will bring your rifle to 36" overall, instead of 32" when the stock is collapsed. You won't have rattle, and you will have a space for a cleaning kit, batteries, and a couple of spare parts.
I'm not a VFG user anymore. I used to run it as close to the magwell as I could, but it would get in the way if I had to shoot off my pack or off a barricade...which was more often than shooting and using the gun as an impact tool. I put it far out, because it is supposed to help with recoil, but I think you're right about it feeling like you are muscling the gun. Bone to bone contact provides better stability.
You can get a small section (2") of rail and attach it to regular handguards, and run your flashlight (6P or G2) in a Viking Tactics mount, at either a 11 or 1 oclock position. If you are right handed, and mount the flashlight at 11, then you can use your thumb to activate the switch (provided you shoot with your support hand thumb forward, facing the target. I've never had good luck with tape switches, either resulting in light NDs or the whole thing stops working.
If you do decide to keep the VFG and light and want a rail system, then the Surefire M73 is a nice choice. They are stable, solid, and well made. They are a little slimmer than the Midwest Industries, the YHM, or even Knight's RIS/RAS, especially when you put rail covers on them. Plus, none of the three require you to do anything like remove the delta ring...they snap in like regular handguards, more or less.
All the gadgets are cool, but at the risk of being an ARF.com heretic, haven't improved my abilities as a shooter. Quality instruction and practice have improved my abilities. To me improved abilities = fun.
As always, YMMV.