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11/24/2004 2:21:14 PM EDT
Looking for help on installing a 5C1 Phantom on a Bushmaster M4. Spoke to Bushmaster tech on their 800 line and he says that the XM15-E2S that I purchased about a year ago is pinned and welded at 12 and 6.
I think am comfortable removing the POS mini Y that it came with by using a Dremel, any
thoughts on proper grinding attachment would be appreciated.

My questions are:
1. When installing new Phantom, Can I drill one hole at 6 position to be legal or do I need two  pins? One would be easier.
2. What is considered a legal pin? Can I buy one? Can I simply take a piece of cut Coat hanger ?
   After I remove the Miny Y it might shed some light. But would like suggestions.
3. I own a Gas Wire feed welder. Can I simply pop a spot weld over the Pin and grind it down. Not
    sure how gun metal works with standard welding equip.
4. I own a vise but not sure how much force will be needed for removal and installation of new
    Suppressor. Any feedback on how to properly clamp the barrel while I perform this would be
   great.
5. Is this a waste of time and should I just take it to a qualified gunsmith and have it done right?

11/24/2004 2:25:07 PM EDT
[#1]

Quoted:

1. When installing new Phantom, Can I drill one hole at 6 position to be legal or do I need two  pins? One would be easier.


One should be fine.



What is considered a legal pin? Can I buy one? Can I simply take a piece of cut Coat hanger ?

A solid pin is best - but a roll pin will do.  No regulation on the pin's material - just make sure it's strong enough to prevent the Phantom from being unscrewed with a wrench.


3. I own a Gas Wire feed welder. Can I simply pop a spot weld over the Pin and grind it down.

Yes


4. I own a vise but not sure how much force will be needed for removal and installation of new
    Suppressor. Any feedback on how to properly clamp the barrel while I perform this would be
   great.


Wood blocks would work - or the aluminum barrel blocks made specifically for the AR-15.  Or you could just put the barreled upper into a receiver block...


Is this a waste of time and should I just take it to a qualified gunsmith and have it done right?

You sound like you have tools and talent to get the job done.  Personally I send mine out to the Pros to get it right (and look great).  But if I had your tools & talent I'd do it myself.
11/24/2004 4:55:43 PM EDT
[#2]
something i learned on the swap i did was to tighten the FS on the barrel first to get your 12 o'clock/6 o'clock marked , then pull it back off to drill the hole/s in the FS.
this way when you get the FS tightened back on the barrel , you'll know exactly how deep your drilling into the barrel
11/26/2004 9:58:11 AM EDT
[#3]
Thanks for the responses. just put the new one on with no trouble.
11/26/2004 10:23:06 AM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
Looking for help on installing a 5C1 Phantom on a Bushmaster M4. Spoke to Bushmaster tech on their 800 line and he says that the XM15-E2S that I purchased about a year ago is pinned and welded at 12 and 6.
I think am comfortable removing the POS mini Y that it came with by using a Dremel, any
thoughts on proper grinding attachment would be appreciated.

My questions are:
1. When installing new Phantom, Can I drill one hole at 6 position to be legal or do I need two  pins? One would be easier.



is this a 16" or 14.5" barrel?

if it's a 16", you don't need to pin and weld the Phantom.
11/26/2004 4:27:44 PM EDT
[#5]
What do you guys use to refinish area with?
11/26/2004 4:43:42 PM EDT
[#6]
I like Brownells DICROPAN T4 touch-up (liquid) myself (very black compared to other cold blues).
11/26/2004 6:50:31 PM EDT
[#7]
I just drilled and tap a phantom FS in the 6 o'clock position.  The steel is soft, drilling and tapping was very easy.  A spot weld over the set screw and it's good to go.  A little spot of flat balck on a q-tip and all is good.
11/26/2004 7:24:46 PM EDT
[#8]
The flats on my 5C1 are not vertical when indexed. Is this normal? If so I'll have to drill  around 4 or 5 oclock for the pin. That is to drill on the flat part anyway.
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