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Posted: 6/30/2004 9:20:21 AM EDT
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How much of a B*TCH is it? I hear wierd words like barrel nut and action block when I start talking about this. I'm sure I can get my gas block off, but the RRA mock suppresser seems quite well attached. What's involved, how hard is it? Anyone on LI wanna get paid to install one for me? |
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My gas block was a SUPER BITCH to remove (Bushmaster 1:7 twist HBAR). I ended up banging the crap out of it. before the pins came out. Good thing I was also planning on replacing the gas block so it really doesn't matter. But once the pins were removed I had to beat on the front sight with a rubber mallet to get the front sight off the barrel. Other than that - the rest is a cake walk. Yes you will need the action block (my favorite) or the barrel blocks, a good vice (to hold the aforementioned blocks) and a barrel wrench. About $30 in tools if you already have the vice. Plus you need some Moly Disulfide grease (available for a few bucks at any auto-parts store - just be sure to get the kind WITHOUT graphite in it. Barrel installation/removal is a cake walk, especially compared to front sight removal. |
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Which tube are you thinking about, and which RRA barrel? The faux suppressor could cause problems...supposedly, you can press it off somehow, but I don't know how well that's gonna work in reality...don't know what kind of tool it's gonna take. Once you get that off, it's really not very hard...the only tricky part is the FSB. Different kinds of pins can make it easy or hard...I've had 2 easy ones (Model 1, uses straight pins), and 2 hard (Olympic uses taper pins that stick out on either side). The Oly barrels needed a concave punch, like a #4 nail punch, and a pretty good amount of force to loosen them, but I did manage to do it once I got the right punch. I believe the RRA uses pins that are flush with the FSB, so you can use a regular punch. You can't get started, though, 'til you get that muzzle thingy off. You will need an action block, and an armorer's wrench...I've got both the DPMS, and the Yankee Hill. The DPMS works great for standard stuff, but the YHM is the bomb for float tube barrel nuts, and the associated jam nuts. I've got both kind of action blocks, the clamshell kind, and the white delrin one that goes in from underneath, and has the 2 pins that go through the takedown pin holes. I prefer the latter, but the other one works fine too. My suggestion...buy a Yankee Hill tube, and send it to them for FREE installation. Let THEM worry about the brake lol. If you only want a tube to mount stuff on, think about the YHM 2 piece handguards...they'll go right on the RRA upper with no trouble, and the'll be plenty sturdy enough for vertical grips and bipods. For my 1st float tube install, I did my Armalite upper...I sent it out to have the brake cut off, which turned out the be the easiest method for me to deal with it. I've since put 2 different tubes on that upper, btw ...so once you get all the tools, you can swap stuff around at will. I now also use nothing but removable gas blocks...once again, it just makes life so much easier. |
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cool, but I'm going back to fobus. The only reason i was going FF was to mount a bipod on the. People on this board told me that to put a bipod on the end of a 16" non free floater is a waste of money. They need to learn the difference between the words "do-able" and "optimal". I have since accepted that my CQB setup will remain as such, and that if i want a sniper build, I should build one. Topic closed M44's here I come. |
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