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Posted: 2/20/2004 5:49:39 PM EDT
| Could a RRA two stage be tuned by a competent 'smith to compare with the JP? Or would one be better off to just buy the 'JP fire control system' to start with? |
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My RRA was just fine, right as it came, but there IS a guy (I forget who, exactly) that tweaks 'em. His finished product isn't all that much more than a stock RRA trigger, either. Somebody will see this, and give the name of the guy that does the tuning, though, I'm sure. |
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I just installed a JP trigger in each of my AR's and cant wait to get to the range. They are an easy install just be careful when grinding for the safety as I trimmed a bit too much and now I have no safety on one of my AR's. I did however wrap the end with a bit of duct tape and now the safety works on a temp basis, I plan on building up the area with a bit of tin and some epoxy.. All in all a very nice trigger though.. |
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Quoted: I thought the same about the screws but in the video they tell you to secure them with "red" loc-tite. Those screws will go no where with that stuff on them... Make sure that all oil is removed with solvent from the parts before loctiting. I've neglected to do that before with other things. [noclue] A [url]www.accuracyspeaks.com[/url] trigger can't be tuned as light as the JP but has no adjusting screws. RRA triggers as set up from the factory, tend to lose second stage engagement. John can fix them here [url]www.whiteoakprecision.com[/url] he usually works them on his lower so you don't have to send yours in, or you can purchase one already worked. I hear Jard triggers can go as light as 1 pound. I might try one in the next few monthes. |
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A well-installed JP trigger just rocks. It's the heat for 3Gun or action-type shooting. My dedicated 3Gun rifle has the 3# JP trigger. My other guns have the JP 4# trigger . All have the JP anti-walk pin set and speed hammer, too. They all have no take-up and only about 0.1" of overtravel movement. Reset is extremely short. There are two adjustment screws in the JP trigger system, and if you have JP install them, they are red-loctited and won't move. If you are really anal about it, you could put a dab of solder on it. It is common to not be able to remove the selector without the JP FCG removed, however because of the clearence between the rear fingr of the trigger and the selector cam. -z |
| Zak was kind enough to let me shoot a couple of his rifles, and I can't imagine how anything could be finer! Those JP triggers were like butter. JP only charges an extra $40 to install their trigger in your lower. Money WELL spent IMHO. I think mudphish would probably agree judging by his above post. |
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I hate paying people to do what I very well can do myself. I fixed the safety problem by building up the area. So that works fine now. I had a chance to take them to the range and after I swapped out the JP hammer springs for the stock ones due to light strikes, I was very impressed and happy with my purchase.. I would and will use them again.. |
| Simplicity does have a beauty all it's own and the JARD Trigger looks sweet & simple. As I've never seen one, how does the 'break' and overtravel of the JARD compare with the JP? In addition, JP says "speed hammer" has a much faster lock up than with a stock hammer. How would or could this be perceived by the shooter?? |
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Quoted: Simplicity does have a beauty all it's own and the JARD Trigger looks sweet & simple. As I've never seen one, how does the 'break' and overtravel of the JARD compare with the JP? In addition, JP says "speed hammer" has a much faster lock up than with a stock hammer. How would or could this be perceived by the shooter?? The JARD compares favorably to custom tuned bolt action rifle triggers. IMHO as an AR trigger, it's in a class by itself. The break is clean, and as with any custom trigger, over travel is adjustable. On the hammer, your talking about "lock time", and there's a lot more to it than just a hammer. Don't get me started on the JP speed hammer.[}:(] The one I ordered from Brownells was so poorly machined that I contacted JP directly; it appeared that they had failed to polish the engagement surface after machining. They promptly replaced the hammer with a "hand selected" hammer of equally poor manufacture, and charged me the shipping. Everybody got their crappy parts back, and I got my money back(minus shipping). I can recommend the JP RP springs; it's the best thing they make. |
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