Posted: 11/23/2011 11:32:12 PM EDT
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Can someone explain to me why the Shrike needs the flat spacer in the buffer tube?
If I am playing around with different buffers, buffer tubes, springs, what am I looking for to make sure I am getting the correct length of everything? |
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Some CAR tubes are a little long, so the spacer ensures that the roller stud on the carrier doesn't smack the rear receiver bridge. Ares told me you should just, upon manual retracting, be able to activate the bolt hold open. So keep that in mind when you shuffle components. I have conversely heard of combinations of either short tubes/long buffers that, when used with the spacer, would not let the bolt lock back. In that case you would leave the spacer out. If you just look at how close the roller stud is to the bridge, you might think there was plenty of room but you have to remember the buffer will compress some. So I think the best reference point is to just have enough room to activate the bolt hold open. |
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Originally Posted By jjlovik:
Some CAR tubes are a little long, so the spacer ensures that the roller stud on the carrier doesn't smack the rear receiver bridge. Ares told me you should just, upon manual retracting, be able to activate the bolt hold open. So keep that in mind when you shuffle components. I have conversely heard of combinations of either short tubes/long buffers that, when used with the spacer, would not let the bolt lock back. In that case you would leave the spacer out. If you just look at how close the roller stud is to the bridge, you might think there was plenty of room but you have to remember the buffer will compress some. So I think the best reference point is to just have enough room to activate the bolt hold open. This is a good point. Without the spacer, my stud hit the buffer tube only when shooting. When you would pull back on the charging handle it looked like there was a good 2 to 3 mm of clearance. The buffer piece made of nylon compresses that much when the gun is actually being shot. This is when I still had the original buffer tube (and H buffer, which doesn't work well in the Shrike). I have since replaced them with the Magpul UBR and either an MGI or H2 buffer. 
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Originally Posted By faldoc:
......... This is a good point. Without the spacer, my stud hit the buffer tube only when shooting. When you would pull back on the charging handle it looked like there was a good 2 to 3 mm of clearance. The buffer piece made of nylon compresses that much when the gun is actually being shot. This is when I still had the original buffer tube (and H buffer, which doesn't work well in the Shrike). I have since replaced them with the Magpul UBR and either an MGI or H2 buffer. Mine did this on the Colt M16A1 with the long buffer tube adapter plus the short buffer tube adapter and several different H2 buffers including a couple of new LMTs. Cold factory buffer tubes are set in place with lock tight / glue. |
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Hello all......just had a few questions regarding bolt travel and tube length.
I am currently runnning with a Spikes ST2 buffer, Ares supplied spring, Ares thin spacer on a EA registered lower reciever. Currently do not remember make of tube. Is there a standard in length for a Mil. spec. tube versus a commercial tube? I had used the small spacer provided on the break in. Still had the roller make contact with the bridge of the lower reciever 
I am having some aluminum spacers made up in lengths of 1.000", 0.500" and 0.250" OAL. I have slightly over an inch of travel play that I can work with to where the bolt will still lock in. Guess I'll have to change up the tubes and get some measurements for future reference. Anyone else run into this situation with alot of travel left prior to bolt lock in? Thanks for your help 
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| I don't see how you can have a inch of travel left after the hold open lever pops up to catch the bolt face. I just installed a Vltor A5 tube on my M16A1. The difference in tube length is right a 3/4 of an inch. So I made a aluminum spacer .800 of an inch long. Looks like the one amphibian made. Figured I could shorten it if I couldn't pull the bolt back far enough to lock the bolt open. With the spacer installed using the Ares spring and a Enidine buffer. Pulling the bolt back as far as I can I have about a 1/8 inch gap between the roller and the receiver. I have the same amount of gap between the bolt face the the catch lever. The spacer could of been a tad longer Ill put some Dykem blue on the receiver to make sure it doesn't hit. I hope this setup will slow my ROF into the low 800s. |
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I have mine on a bushmaster lower and some unknown carbine buffer tube I pulled my parts collection.
With the ares spring and spacer I can just barely get the BHO to engage. Actually running with mags, the BHO only engages about half the time since it doesnt get much time to pop up and grab the bolt. Never been a big concern since I dont plan on running many mags through my shrike (only belts). Sounds like you have an out of spec tube or buffer or something to get that amount of play once the bolt passes by the BHO lever. |
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Picked up a milspec buffer tube from the local shop and changed it out with the previous. It was a commercial tube, don't know who made it?
I now have installed a Spikes T2 buffer and the small disc ARES provided. Sliding the bolt back I have no problem with BHO engaging. No roller stud contact. Threw a Quarter in with the spacer to see if I BHO would catch. Still can engage. Will have to give a test run to see if there is any contact with the bridge on the receiver. The way it looks niether should make any contact with the bridge
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