User Panel
Quoted:
Most T-1 compatible mount manufacturer's haven't specified info for the Cyclops. Has anyone had luck with an ADM QD mount that will do lower 1/3 or co-witness with a FSB. I have two carbines, one with the FSB, one without so haven't figured out which one the Cyclops will end up on yet. View Quote Tomac |
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Quoted: I have the ADM AD-T1-10 QD absolute cowitness mount, and it provides a 1/3 cowitness w/the Cyclops, high enough that both reticle & ranging hashes clear the FSB. Tomac View Quote |
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Quoted: I have the same mount but it’s much higher than a 1/3 co witness for me using an FSB. I have an MI Copy of the Troy foldable rear sight and I can’t use it as the cyclops sits too high in that ADM mount. The AD-T1-9 would be lower but since I am not planning on a cowittnss it does not matter. View Quote Attached File Tomac |
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How tall is your ADM T1–10? Mine is about 0.94 inches from the top of the rail to the top shelf of the mount. It is labeled AD-T1-10.
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This is how mine looks using the AD-T1-10 mount. Definitely not getting a cowittness with this. Also in the pic by PA with the four mounts the absolute co wittiness mount looks a little short to me. Attached File
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Quoted:
This is how mine looks using the AD-T1-10 mount. Definitely not getting a cowittness with this. Also in the pic by PA with the four mounts the absolute co wittiness mount looks a little short to me. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52218/31839D5A-A33E-44B7-8434-A6FC89B129D6-652041.JPG View Quote I do know that w/the factory absolute cowitness mount, the Cyclops' reticle sits right on my front sight post. HTH... Tomac ETA: Any chance your BUIS are of non-std height??? |
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BUIS is a Troy Rear Folding Low profile sight. I compared with an MI copy and a Troy fixed rear sight; all have the aperature at the same height.
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I ordered a CASV height mount for my Cyclops. Seems like it will sit just where I want it. Will post pictures when I get it.
Primary Arms needs to get these in stock CASV Attached File Absolute Cowitness Attached File |
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Let us know how it works out. The center line height of a T1 with this mount is listed as 1.15 inches. This compares to the AD T1 10 which has a center line height of 1.52 inches and is an exact cowittness height. The cyclops is listed as increasing the center height by 0.25 inches so in the CASV mount it will be 1.36 and probably too low. The cyclops with the supplied PA mount is described as having a center line height of 1.41 inches. If you have a fixed front sight it will probably block your reticle. If you have a folding front sight and like a center line height of 1.36 inches you should be fine.
I like the scope in the T1-10 mount as the reticle and hash marks clears the fixed front sight on my rifle. |
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Quoted:
Let us know how it works out. The center line height of a T1 with this mount is listed as 1.15 inches. This compares to the AD T1 10 which has a center line height of 1.52 inches and is an exact cowittness height. The cyclops is listed as increasing the center height by 0.25 inches so in the CASV mount it will be 1.36 and probably too low. The cyclops with the supplied PA mount is described as having a center line height of 1.41 inches. If you have a fixed front sight it will probably block your reticle. If you have a folding front sight and like a center line height of 1.36 inches you should be fine. I like the scope in the T1-10 mount as the reticle and hash marks clears the fixed front sight on my rifle. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Let us know how it works out. The center line height of a T1 with this mount is listed as 1.15 inches. This compares to the AD T1 10 which has a center line height of 1.52 inches and is an exact cowittness height. The cyclops is listed as increasing the center height by 0.25 inches so in the CASV mount it will be 1.36 and probably too low. The cyclops with the supplied PA mount is described as having a center line height of 1.41 inches. If you have a fixed front sight it will probably block your reticle. If you have a folding front sight and like a center line height of 1.36 inches you should be fine. I like the scope in the T1-10 mount as the reticle and hash marks clears the fixed front sight on my rifle. Here is the text from ADMs site. Description
Centerline height with the T1/H1 Optic is 1.15?. When choosing a mount, note that the height from centerline of the scope to the surface where the mount attaches is .25” taller than a typical 20mm microdot.Therefore, if a mount normally results in a 20mm microdot sight height of 1.41”, installing it on the Primary Arms 1X prism scope will result in a taller height of 1.66”. Seems promising though. |
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If you are hoping for 1.40" overall, why don't you just stick with the factory mount at 1.41"? Are you looking for a QD setup I guess?
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Quoted:
If you are hoping for 1.40" overall, why don't you just stick with the factory mount at 1.41"? Are you looking for a QD setup I guess? View Quote |
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I'll be getting a Cyclops soon for a budget build I did a few years ago. No fixed front sight post and will be using the PA mount that comes with it. As much as I like & use QD mounts, I rarely remove them.
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@PA_Mike
Any idea what appx battery life is like on the other settings, primarily max & minimum? Thx!... Tomac |
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Quoted:
@PA_Mike Any idea what appx battery life is like on the other settings, primarily max & minimum? Thx!... Tomac View Quote However, I caution you guys that not all CR2032 batteries are created equal. I found this out yesterday for myself. The key fob for my old 2006 Corvette was dying, I was getting intermittent "NO FOB DETECTED" functionality problems where you can't unlock or start the car. So I asked engineering for a replacement battery and they threw me a couple of ours, which are of course imported from China along with our optics. These were brand new batteries but neither of them had enough power to run my key fob at all. So last night I overpaid for a Duracell brand 4-pack at the local grocery store and just like that, no more car fob problems, it's 100%. My next step is to install one of the Duracells in my Raptor vs. what it comes with and see if the illumination is actually brighter on max setting. But I bet the Duracell brand batt would last longer than the included one no matter what the spec sheet says. |
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Quoted: No, I can ask if they will run the math for me. Basically if you know the draw of the rheostat, you just divide the known energy of the battery vs. the draw and voila, you have your estimate. How hard could the math be, right? However, I caution you guys that not all CR2032 batteries are created equal. I found this out yesterday for myself. The key fob for my old 2006 Corvette was dying, I was getting intermittent "NO FOB DETECTED" functionality problems where you can't unlock or start the car. So I asked engineering for a replacement battery and they threw me a couple of ours, which are of course imported from China along with our optics. These were brand new batteries but neither of them had enough power to run my key fob at all. So last night I overpaid for a Duracell brand 4-pack at the local grocery store and just like that, no more car fob problems, it's 100%. My next step is to install one of the Duracells in my Raptor vs. what it comes with and see if the illumination is actually brighter on max setting. But I bet the Duracell brand batt would last longer than the included one no matter what the spec sheet says. View Quote Tomac |
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Quoted:
No, I can ask if they will run the math for me. Basically if you know the draw of the rheostat, you just divide the known energy of the battery vs. the draw and voila, you have your estimate. How hard could the math be, right? However, I caution you guys that not all CR2032 batteries are created equal. I found this out yesterday for myself. The key fob for my old 2006 Corvette was dying, I was getting intermittent "NO FOB DETECTED" functionality problems where you can't unlock or start the car. So I asked engineering for a replacement battery and they threw me a couple of ours, which are of course imported from China along with our optics. These were brand new batteries but neither of them had enough power to run my key fob at all. So last night I overpaid for a Duracell brand 4-pack at the local grocery store and just like that, no more car fob problems, it's 100%. My next step is to install one of the Duracells in my Raptor vs. what it comes with and see if the illumination is actually brighter on max setting. But I bet the Duracell brand batt would last longer than the included one no matter what the spec sheet says. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
@PA_Mike Any idea what appx battery life is like on the other settings, primarily max & minimum? Thx!... Tomac However, I caution you guys that not all CR2032 batteries are created equal. I found this out yesterday for myself. The key fob for my old 2006 Corvette was dying, I was getting intermittent "NO FOB DETECTED" functionality problems where you can't unlock or start the car. So I asked engineering for a replacement battery and they threw me a couple of ours, which are of course imported from China along with our optics. These were brand new batteries but neither of them had enough power to run my key fob at all. So last night I overpaid for a Duracell brand 4-pack at the local grocery store and just like that, no more car fob problems, it's 100%. My next step is to install one of the Duracells in my Raptor vs. what it comes with and see if the illumination is actually brighter on max setting. But I bet the Duracell brand batt would last longer than the included one no matter what the spec sheet says. |
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Robski at AKOU showing off a pretty sweet AK configuration with the 1x Cyclops in an RS Regulate mount.
1x Cyclops ACSS Prism scope for AK and more! |
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I zeroed my 1X today on my 12.5 pistol.
I like it. The chevron provides a much more precise point of aim than a red dot however, my eye sight is not what it used to be so, it is a bit difficult to see chevron in complete detail. For what it is, I think it works great. There is no end all be all answer. I think the older guys and others with degraded eye sight will find this optic helpful. Thanks PA! |
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@PA_Mike
Any problem if I reverse the factory mount to put the bolt on the right side instead of the factory left side? I ask 'cause the bolt snags my finger when working the charging handle during malf drills. Thx!... Tomac ETA: Decided to try the factory absolute cowitness height mount and like it so much I removed the FSB for an unobstructed FOV through the Cyclops. Attached File |
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@Tomac, I'll ask engineering but I don't see any reason why reversing the mount would cause trouble down the road. It's pretty symmetrical in design, I don't think it's going to stress anything weird in one direction vs. the other direction. If something DOES go wonky with it, hey, lifetime warranty. Just let us know.
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Quoted:
@Tomac, I'll ask engineering but I don't see any reason why reversing the mount would cause trouble down the road. It's pretty symmetrical in design, I don't think it's going to stress anything weird in one direction vs. the other direction. If something DOES go wonky with it, hey, lifetime warranty. Just let us know. View Quote Tomac |
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So, on a scale of one to ten, what is the expected durability of the Cycloptic? One being Leapers, and ten being ACOG.
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I guess the issue would have to be the electronics, cause the housing feels like a brick. (In a good way). It’s not an ACOG, but that definitely does seem to be the goal .
In short, pretty happy with that aspect. |
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Quoted:
So, on a scale of one to ten, what is the expected durability of the Cycloptic? One being Leapers, and ten being ACOG. View Quote The main strength advantage of the ACOG is that it is 7000 series aluminum vs. 6000 series aluminum for ours. That's one of the main reasons ACOG is a thousand dollar optic, of course. Cyclops is covered by our lifetime warranty which covers normal wear and tear, not just "manufacturer defect", which I always hate (I can go on a rant about that one). If you can just plain shoot it enough to break it somehow, we'll repair or replace without argument. Maybe I shouldn't give this away but we are thinking about doing a photo set for the 2019 product catalog with my coworker Will's Toyota 4Runner sitting on top of a Cyclops. One wide shot establishing that yes it's the whole truck and not just a wheel, and then a closer shot of the optic underneath the tire. We might do it or we might not, because we don't want to encourage people to get that stupid with our scopes on a regular basis. |
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I got one of these recently and like it so far...enough that I already bought a second one which arrived today. The height with the included mount seems pretty much perfect for me. I've only been able to shoot with it out to about 140 yards, so I haven't really used the ranging and holdover features. My only complaint at this point is that the illumined reticle isn't quite as bright as I was hoping for, but it's not bad really. Compared to my Vortex 1x prisms it's not as bright but it works pretty good without the illumination in typical daylight conditions anyway, plus the reticle is much better for 100 yards and out. I'm happy to have this optic available and I foresee more of my red dots getting replaced with it.
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@rsqhobbs
As if in answer to your question, Mr. GunsNGear has strapped a 1x Cyclops to the deck of his house, that's going to get hit by Hurricane Florence in the next couple of days, with the flip caps UP and probably, knowing him, the reticle illumination on. He'll post on Facebook and probably make a YouTube video about how it survived, if he can find it after the storm surge hits. Good luck little Cyclops! |
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@PA_Mike
Idea for Cyclops 2.0?: Could battery life be improved to any great degree by illuminating only the chevron and horseshoe? I can't envision a situation where I need to range a target yet is so dark I need the ranging hashes illuminated. Just a thought... Tomac |
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Quoted:
@PA_Mike Idea for Cyclops 2.0?: Could battery life be improved to any great degree by illuminating only the chevron and horseshoe? I can't envision a situation where I need to range a target yet is so dark I need the ranging hashes illuminated. Just a thought... Tomac View Quote The only solution is to use a much more efficient emitter that shines the same amount of light but draws much less battery power. Those do exist-- and I think right now they cost almost as much as our entire prism scope does. Dangit. |
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Ruins and PA_Mike, thank you for your input, regarding the anticipated reliability of this optic. I appreciate your time.
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Quoted:
No, the energy that comes out of the emitter is the same regardless of what parts of the reticle are reflective coated and what parts of the reticle are not reflective coated. The only solution is to use a much more efficient emitter that shines the same amount of light but draws much less battery power. Those do exist-- and I think right now they cost almost as much as our entire prism scope does. Dangit. View Quote |
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Can anyone speak to how well the Cyclops performs when paired with a magnifier and how it stacks up against rds + magnifier pairings like t1 or exps + magnifier? I have astigmatism in my dominant eye which has prevented me from trying this sort of set up and I'm hoping that the Cyclops will change that.
Thanks! |
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Quoted:
Can anyone speak to how well the Cyclops performs when paired with a magnifier and how it stacks up against rds + magnifier pairings like t1 or exps + magnifier? I have astigmatism in my dominant eye which has prevented me from trying this sort of set up and I'm hoping that the Cyclops will change that. Thanks! View Quote SOME people can get both the reticle and the target in focus by fiddling with the adjustable ocular lens of the Cyclops and also the adjustable ocular lens of the magnifier. However this is a long and tedious process, it generally takes us about five to ten minutes to find the right focus settings, and even then they aren't perfect for targets at various ranges. Then you hand the rifle to someone else with different eyes and they can't see the target or the etched reticle properly until they take another five to ten minutes to find out the perfect balance of ocular adjustments for them. Also, the proper ocular setting to keep the reticle sharp is not the same with the magnifier vs. without the magnifier. If you want to shoot at 1x you must adjust the focus to one setting, and then if you flip the 3x magnifier into place behind it, you'll need to mess with the ocular again. Basically, if you were the only person shooting your rifle, and you were only shooting it at one distance over and over again, like the 100 yard line at your local shooting range, and you were ONLY shooting with the magnifier behind it, there's a chance you can make the magnifier work for you. For a tactical shooting, hunting, or competition situation where you're likely to have targets popping up at various ranges and you may want to switch back and forth between magnifications, this would not be an optimal setup. We do offer a setup with an etched, illuminated reticle that only requires one ocular to be adjusted for your eye whether you are shooting at the 1x or have 3x or even 6x magnification, and changing back and forth between them can be done seamlessly in a fraction of a second. These are called 1-6x24 low power variable optics, and we offer them in both first focal plane and second focal plane. That might be more in line with what you are looking for. |
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Thanks for the followup. Looks like LPVs are still the way to go for magnification. Probably still picking up the Cyclops here in the near future.
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Any word when the risers for the OEM mount will be available for purchase?
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Looking for feedback from long time users of the cyclops...I'm not sure that I like the scope.
I'm having a hard time quickly picking up the chevron and yes, it's in focus. Anyone else experiencing this? |
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No! My vision is not great....and I don’t have an issue. Possibly you have an issue with the optic?
I am very pleased with the reticle clarity. Something is not right... |
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Quoted:
Looking for feedback from long time users of the cyclops...I'm not sure that I like the scope. I'm having a hard time quickly picking up the chevron and yes, it's in focus. Anyone else experiencing this? View Quote However, I find as I continue to use the Cyclops I'm using the horseshoe to get me quickly on-target for close-shots and close for distance shots, but switching my focus to putting the chevron on-target for distance/precise shots. I'm not displeased w/this as my distance/precision shots are far more accurate than using a std RDS and probably just as fast close-in. Tomac |
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Finally bought one for my budget build. Very pleased with it. Got a chance to shoot it during the week.
Attached File 150 yards, 2.3 MOA with Federal XM855 on right, and 2 MOA (excluding the flyer I did not pull) with Federal XM193 on left. Not shown is Lithuanian M855 at 2.4 MOA Attached File |
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My recommendations for CYCLOPS 2.0 (and any RD under 20,000 hours):
1) Battery compartment/brightness adjustment on top. 2) An auto-on/off features we see on HOLOSUNS and LEUPOLDS. With only 3000 hours at medium, that's like 2000 hours at my usual setting (high enough for a weapon's light). However, if it had a 10hr auto-off, and turned auto-on when moved, I'd never have to turn it off, and it would last at least a year. With 2000hrs always on, it's more like a battery ever 2.5 months; even 3000 hours is shy of 4 months at medium. ALSO, the battery compartment looks almost big enough for two CR2302s--double the power, put it on top instead of on the side, and I would think that might juice up a brighter emitter and increase battery life. :) |
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Quoted:
My recommendations for CYCLOPS 2.0 (and any RD under 20,000 hours): 1) Battery compartment/brightness adjustment on top. 2) An auto-on/off features we see on HOLOSUNS and LEUPOLDS. With only 3000 hours at medium, that's like 2000 hours at my usual setting (high enough for a weapon's light). However, if it had a 10hr auto-off, and turned auto-on when moved, I'd never have to turn it off, and it would last at least a year. With 2000hrs always on, it's more like a battery ever 2.5 months; even 3000 hours is shy of 4 months at medium. ALSO, the battery compartment looks almost big enough for two CR2302s--double the power, put it on top instead of on the side, and I would think that might juice up a brighter emitter and increase battery life. :) View Quote Tomac |
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