User Panel
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I have one question, will the switch fit on the Magpul light mount kit for the MOE hand guards? I've been wondering about this as well. I got the MOE package for Christmas and love it, but I need a better way to mount the tape switch. Quoted:
I want one. Any Ideas when they will be in stock again? I have one question, will the switch fit on the Magpul light mount kit for the MOE hand guards? I couldn't get the tape switch to work with the MOE kit. The tape switch is to fat and the MOE piece doesn't fully snap in over it. I ended up using some hobby grade double sided tape, if you do it right it's a very secure mounting option. You can kinda see it in this pic. http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j374/Furadi/zzzsidebyside.jpg nice!!! Here's a better pic... It lines up perfectly. http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j374/Furadi/IMG_2268Medium.jpg If you get the same kind of tape that people use in RC race cars you'll never have to worry about it coming off. That stuff is made to withstand heat and extreme abuse. What size is the rail you have on your MOE. I'm getting ready to order one and they have three different sizes. I want to make sure I get enough rail for the mount. 2.5in, 3.5in, etc ? Thanks |
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I have one question, will the switch fit on the Magpul light mount kit for the MOE hand guards? I've been wondering about this as well. I got the MOE package for Christmas and love it, but I need a better way to mount the tape switch. Quoted:
I want one. Any Ideas when they will be in stock again? I have one question, will the switch fit on the Magpul light mount kit for the MOE hand guards? I couldn't get the tape switch to work with the MOE kit. The tape switch is to fat and the MOE piece doesn't fully snap in over it. I ended up using some hobby grade double sided tape, if you do it right it's a very secure mounting option. You can kinda see it in this pic. http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j374/Furadi/zzzsidebyside.jpg nice!!! Here's a better pic... It lines up perfectly. http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j374/Furadi/IMG_2268Medium.jpg If you get the same kind of tape that people use in RC race cars you'll never have to worry about it coming off. That stuff is made to withstand heat and extreme abuse. What size is the rail you have on your MOE. I'm getting ready to order one and they have three different sizes. I want to make sure I get enough rail for the mount. 2.5in, 3.5in, etc ? Thanks The 5 slot will work. I prefer the 7 slot ad it supports the entire base. Marshall |
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Man oh man, bouncing off the fence about switching out my TLR-1 for one of these.
Marshall, I saw a guy post pics of one of these in (2 batt mode), would this lessen output or just runtime? |
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Man oh man, bouncing off the fence about switching out my TLR-1 for one of these. Marshall, I saw a guy post pics of one of these in (2 batt mode), would this lessen output or just runtime? I am not sure how he did that?? The body does come apart but I can 't figure out how he reconfigured it for two batteries. Can you find a link to that post? Thanks Marshall |
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WOW!!! Thanks for this. This is a real plus for the light that I just missed. It has been asked before and I thought I tried but obviously I was looking at it wrong.
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BUT, does it diminsh the lumen output and how much shorter is the runtime, is it going to get critical HOT for the internals or does the reduced voltage and the missing heat sink cancel each other? These are the KEY points I would think.
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BUT, does it diminsh the lumen output and how much shorter is the runtime, is it going to get critical HOT for the internals or does the reduced voltage and the missing heat sink cancel each other? These are the KEY points I would think. The heat sink is still in place. I will have to do some testing to answer you other questions. Marshall |
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The heat sink is still in place. I will have to do some testing to answer you other questions. Marshall Quoted:
WOW, IT WORKS! I just removed the section from mine!! Too cool! Makes it shorter and handier. I see another of these in my future. When you unscrew the head of the light and then the mount, just grab the heat sink and give it a good twist. The other section will unscrew from the heat sink. ARKAR Sorry Marshall, I misread that part. Also, the questions I asked weren't of my concern, just figured maybe they would be to anyone wanting to mess with theirs. |
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I just got my setup the other day. Here are some photos showing the brightness at 30'/100'/200'. I'll more than likely be buying another in the future. I'm looking forward to seeing how it handles recoil over time.
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff180/bunk216/Guns/IMAG1220-1-1.jpg http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff180/bunk216/Guns/IMAG1223-1-1.jpg http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff180/bunk216/Guns/IMAG1224-1-1-1.jpg http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff180/bunk216/Guns/IMAG1227-1.jpg |
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Holy crap... I'm going to switch to 2 battery mode right now!
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So does "2 battery mode" reduce the output?
I want one of these, but I want it for my S12 for home security and don't want to be so bright *I* can't see.. :) |
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So does "2 battery mode" reduce the output? I want one of these, but I want it for my S12 for home security and don't want to be so bright *I* can't see.. :) Just get the Surefire diffuser. |
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So does "2 battery mode" reduce the output? I want one of these, but I want it for my S12 for home security and don't want to be so bright *I* can't see.. :) Just get the Surefire diffuser. Good point. I haven't looked into weapon lights much as I always felt like it'd be something for the bad guy to shoot back at, but I've been slowly changing my mind, especially for home defense.. |
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WOW!!! Thanks for this. This is a real plus for the light that I just missed. It has been asked before and I thought I tried but obviously I was looking at it wrong. You could of possibly tried to do it and it just wouldn't work, my UWL came in today and out of curiosity I tried to do it and couldn't. I could get about one full turn on the head and no more, it hit a point of resistance that when I've met before if you went any tighter you strip the threads out and I wasn't willing to ruin my new light. I tried a few times very carefully making sure I wasn't just starting the process a bit crooked and binding the threads up and still didn't have any luck. Although with the light fully assembled everything tightened down as it should with no resistance and seals up like when I removed it from the box it came in. But that aside, I absolutely love the light, pictures of the beam don't come anywhere close to doing it justice even inside IMO the perfect mix of spot and spill for my house and property anyway, have to grab another when I finish my Saiga project I'm working on. |
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I just got my light in today. got it mounted up and had it out briefly this evening. All I can say is WOW! This light really fills the need I had for a light on my AR for use in my rural setting. It lights up my back field to at least 130 yards or so. It was raining too! Great light for the $$$ I want another one already!
Great product Marsh! Super deal! Thanks! Tread |
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It's mentioned that the body is threaded to accept the LT170 or Arms #17 mount.
What is the thread type? Trying to figure out what screws I need to purchase. |
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It's mentioned that the body is threaded to accept the LT170 or Arms #17 mount. What is the thread type? Trying to figure out what screws I need to purchase. The mount should come with the screws |
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Thanks Marshall!
Unfortunately, the screws were absent from the mount I was given. EDIT: Used 10-32, 5/16" flat-head socket cap screws, in case anyone else needed to know. |
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Marshall, I wonder how much your sales have increased because of the 2 battery conversion? If you weren't in texas I would have already bought one.
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Some comments:
I have been using the Ultimate WL on my 450 Bushmaster for hunting for a year now and have had no problems. The light and mount have held up perfectly to the recoil of the 450B. I have been more then happy with this thing, lights up the night!!!!!! Day after day. I did have to add a rail spacer to get the light off of my free float tube. Thanks, PA |
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Glad I re-checked this thread!!
I'll be buying one two weeks from today. |
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Any plans to do a smaller version, similar to the M300A?
I bought one of these and love it, but it is a bit on the heavy and bulk side. And FYI, I can see and shoot targets at 200 yards easy at night with this light |
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Any plans to do a smaller version, similar to the M300A? I bought one of these and love it, but it is a bit on the heavy and bulk side. And FYI, I can see and shoot targets at 200 yards easy at night with this light You can take a section out and make it a 2 cell light. I don;t think it is worth it but does save a few ounces. The weight is in the large head with heat sink. Marshall |
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Any plans to do a smaller version, similar to the M300A? I bought one of these and love it, but it is a bit on the heavy and bulk side. And FYI, I can see and shoot targets at 200 yards easy at night with this light You can take a section out and make it a 2 cell light. I don;t think it is worth it but does save a few ounces. The weight is in the large head with heat sink. Marshall Yeah, the smaller head is what I was wanting. It would be really nice if a smaller head could be purchased separately, so that you could have either 2 or 3 cell and either the small or large head. |
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We are working on a CQ version but we won't see it until late this year.
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I just received my light. I was trying to put it into two cell mode but my heat sink will not thread into the shorter body. Has anyone come across this.
The threadings don't seem to be the same. Thanks for the great products. |
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Hey does anyone have the thread specs on the mount bolts? I lost one of the knurled nuts.
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I just received my light. I was trying to put it into two cell mode but my heat sink will not thread into the shorter body. Has anyone come across this. The threadings don't seem to be the same. Thanks for the great products. Should work. The heat sink is a separate piece. Is the heat sink still attached to the head? |
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Hey does anyone have the thread specs on the mount bolts? I lost one of the knurled nuts. I think I have a couple from a light we put a ADM base on. Shoot me a email. |
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How often do you see problems with the tape switch sticking in the "on" position? I am having that problem on a new light.
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I just received my light. I was trying to put it into two cell mode but my heat sink will not thread into the shorter body. Has anyone come across this. The threadings don't seem to be the same. Thanks for the great products. The one I have the threads don't quite work either. I haven't looked into it fursther, but it seems the threads aren't deep enough to allow the pieces to screw completely together. |
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How often do you see problems with the tape switch sticking in the "on" position? I am having that problem on a new light. Not often. Shoot me a email and I will send a replacement. If there is a thread probelem we can just send a replacement with a return label. Marshall |
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Would this light be able to hold up to the abuse of a 12ga? I have a Mossberg 930 and I need a light for it. It will be brought to the range a couple times and mostly sit in a closet. So do you think it will take it?
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Would this light be able to hold up to the abuse of a 12ga? I have a Mossberg 930 and I need a light for it. It will be brought to the range a couple times and mostly sit in a closet. So do you think it will take it? Yes. Don't remove the front to make it a 2 cell light. You loose the battery retaining ring in the front section that protects the head from shock. |
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Would this light be able to hold up to the abuse of a 12ga? I have a Mossberg 930 and I need a light for it. It will be brought to the range a couple times and mostly sit in a closet. So do you think it will take it? Yes. Don't remove the front to make it a 2 cell light. You loose the battery retaining ring in the front section that protects the head from shock. Can you elaborate on this? I just changed mine over to a 2 battery light (On a 5.56, not worried about recoil) but upon inspection of the segment I took out and looking at how it aligned with the head, I see no battery retaining rings, washers or gaskets. It mounts flush. |
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Flashaholic here.
Any details on the LED used? Looks like an XPG or XRE maybe? Any details on the driver used? I read the whole thread looking for the above info. and notice now that people are removing one of the CR123 cells could potentially equal a kaboom scenario depending on the driver used in this light. If it's a buck driver, depending on the forward voltage of the LED, the current could increase over the safe maximum current for a CR123 (this would depend on which CR123 is being used). Depending on the driver being used here, two 18500's would likely work perfectly fine, since the configuration of 3xCR123 and 2xCR123 both seem to work ok. The two 18500's would give you the ability to have rechargeable li-ions rather than wasting tons of money buying CR123's which are ridiculously priced for what they cost to make. This is a very good product with a great market. |
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Would this light be able to hold up to the abuse of a 12ga? I have a Mossberg 930 and I need a light for it. It will be brought to the range a couple times and mostly sit in a closet. So do you think it will take it? Yes. Don't remove the front to make it a 2 cell light. You loose the battery retaining ring in the front section that protects the head from shock. Can you elaborate on this? I just changed mine over to a 2 battery light (On a 5.56, not worried about recoil) but upon inspection of the segment I took out and looking at how it aligned with the head, I see no battery retaining rings, washers or gaskets. It mounts flush. There is a lip machined into the body the prevents the battery from banging into the back of the circuit board. You loose this. |
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Flashaholic here. Any details on the LED used? Looks like an XPG or XRE maybe? Any details on the driver used? I read the whole thread looking for the above info. and notice now that people are removing one of the CR123 cells could potentially equal a kaboom scenario depending on the driver used in this light. If it's a buck driver, depending on the forward voltage of the LED, the current could increase over the safe maximum current for a CR123 (this would depend on which CR123 is being used). Depending on the driver being used here, two 18500's would likely work perfectly fine, since the configuration of 3xCR123 and 2xCR123 both seem to work ok. The two 18500's would give you the ability to have rechargeable li-ions rather than wasting tons of money buying CR123's which are ridiculously priced for what they cost to make. This is a very good product with a great market. I will ask the factory for the driver info. The weight saving is minimal and as noted above you loose the battery retention. SOunds like the best recommendation is to leave it a three cell light. Marshall |
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Any suggestions about mounts to use for an 870? These need a PIC rail.No great option for that. We have a new smaller light that will work in a 1" mount that will be here in a few weeks if you can hang on. |
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Thanks Marshall
I own one already mounted to my AR :-) I was just thinking about picking up an MOE 870 forend and a scout light mount or pic rail section if that would work. How many slots does it need? |
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Thanks Marshall I own one already mounted to my AR :-) I was just thinking about picking up an MOE 870 forend and a scout light mount or pic rail section if that would work. How many slots does it need? That fits the smaller Scout light not the larger pattern of ours. |
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Hey Marshall will this light work on a shot gun? i have one sitting here
and want to mount it on my 870? can it handle 12g? |
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