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11/7/2015 7:51:08 PM EDT
This thread can be used for those who need assistance in building their PSA AK47. Please post your actual experiences and tips with installation.

Edited for accuracy: Please don't turn this into a PSA bashing thread. The PSA AK47 parts kit describes that fitting is required. This thread is intended to help
amateur AK47 builders prevent costly build mistakes and become proficient with the building process. Post a pic of your build in the process to support your experience.
11/7/2015 7:51:39 PM EDT
[#1]
I recently received my MOE AK kit from PSA to build my PSA Gen 1 barreled receiver. Here's my experience:

The firing control group, MOE stock, MOE grip, bolt, bolt carrier, recoil spring assembly assembled together well onto the barreled receiver. As for the bolt, make sure that you place the extractor pin all the way with a punch, with the notch aligned horizontal to firing pin journal, before replacing the firing pin retaining pin.  Also, have the firing pin ledge (side machined furthest to the firing pin tip) aligned closest to the side facing the firing pin retaining pin. To facilitate the install of the hammer, use a rubber band to retain the spring once wound into position, with the legs held behind the top "legs" of the hammer. Place the pin in with that fat side facing the left of the receiver. Insert the trigger assembly containing the disco and spring and insert the last pin with the fat side positioned on the left side of the receiver as mentioned before.  The plate holding the recess in the firing control pins need a slight taps to fit the pin holding the hammer; the plate needed to be depressed towards the left side of the receiver while tapping with a small rubber mallet to seat onto the trigger pin recess. The MOE grip comes with a stud that should be placed the the lower square hole, in a position angled away from the muzzle prior to fitment. Also, the MOE stock comes with two oval steel inserts that are threaded and have a flange and a long screw bolt, hexagonal nut, and plastic wedge to tighten the stock fitment within the receiver. Remove the cheek rest by pushing the lock closest to the top of the recoil pad and lift upwards. I recommend assembling the latter first, tightening until most of the slack has been removed, yet still able to be inline with the portion of the stock that fits into the rear of the receiver (Fig. 1). Place one insert flange side down in the channel, with the threaded side closest to the muzzle, and slide it into the front notch on the stock (Fig. 2) The second insert is placed flange side up with the threaded portion closest to the recoil pad of the stock (Fig. 3). Once the threaded flanges are in place (Fig.4), insert the stock into the receiver and tighten the two provided screws into the threaded flanges and the screw retaining the wedge. I noticed that I received two screws of similar size and one brass bushing for the front screw; however, the front screw won't screw into the threaded insert with the bushing in place. Other sources online have stated that the MOE stock kit should include a long and short screw -- perhaps this was the problem. I couldn't get the slanted flash hider to screw on completely flush (just a 1mm gap) to the front sight tower by hand. The flash hider doesn't have a wrench flat to facilitate tightening, but the flash hider detent should hold it into place. Lastly, The bolt carrier doesn't have binding issues with charging the carrier rearward. I expect it to do well with test firing, but time will tell.

The parts that need fitting:
The gas tube needed filing on the side of the lugs that fit into the rear sight block: I began with using a small rubber hammer to fit the gas tube and noticed it wouldn't fit all the way. When I removed the gas tube, I noticed high spots in the fitment area. Fine filing over a couple of tries yielded a very snug fit. The lever that locks the gas tube was very snug and needed a couple light taps with a small rubber mallet to close. The safety lever didn't slide into place once the trigger assembly was inserted. The dimple below the safety lever (keymod hole) notch was interfering with fitment. I actually bent the safety lever trying to torque it in by lightly tap it into place with a small rubber mallet. The rear sight leaf spring was very difficult to depress to insert the rear sight into the notch on the rear sight tower. I relieved some spring tension by placing the spring in the jaws of a vice till' almost flattened. The spring still came out with plenty of tension and made the install slightly easier. Also, the receiver top cover was too long. The side that should fit into the rear sight cover appears to have been cut at a slight angle too. I still need to cut the receiver cover with a file to fit.

Overall, this kit is a interesting departure from the AR15 "lego " like kits, but enjoyable nonetheless.

Edited for accuracy (EA): I purchased the front sight kit at the same time; however, I don't have a front sight tool to install it. I appreciate any help in finding a good sight tool.
EA: MOE Fixed Stock Figures
11/7/2015 8:35:43 PM EDT
[#2]
Obligatory pic:
11/7/2015 8:50:08 PM EDT
[#3]
My safety was the binding on the flat of the lever that fits along the inner right side of the receiver. You can see a small piece of displaced metal. Like I posted previously, there is a small inward dimple in the receiver that should stiffen the safety fitment. Would the hive recommend buying a new safety and file material of the "arm" portion? The arrow is pointed close to the "arm" in question.

ETA: PSA replaced this part au gratis
11/7/2015 9:15:07 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote History
Quoted:
I purchased the front sight kit at the same time; however, I don't have a front sight tool to install it. I appreciate any help in finding a good sight tool.
View Quote


This one works fine for me: UTG AK Sight Tool

Others have had trouble with the front sight drum being a tight fit into the front sight block.  During my install, I put the sight drum in the freezer overnight and it only required a few taps with a rubber mallet before it dropped in.  Adjustment with the front sight tool after was a non-issue.

Unfortunately, my rear sight block was plagued with the same problems described here: http://www.tacti-cool.com/industry-news/2015/10/8/palmetto-state-armory-issues-psak47-recall and I was not able to zero the rifle, even after maxing out the windage adjustment on the front sight.  It's back at Palmetto now where I'm hoping it's being remedied.
11/7/2015 10:15:24 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote History
Quoted:


This one works fine for me: UTG AK Sight Tool

Others have had trouble with the front sight drum being a tight fit into the front sight block.  During my install, I put the sight drum in the freezer overnight and it only required a few taps with a rubber mallet before it dropped in.  Adjustment with the front sight tool after was a non-issue.

Unfortunately, my rear sight block was plagued with the same problems described here: http://www.tacti-cool.com/industry-news/2015/10/8/palmetto-state-armory-issues-psak47-recall and I was not able to zero the rifle, even after maxing out the windage adjustment on the front sight.  It's back at Palmetto now where I'm hoping it's being remedied.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I purchased the front sight kit at the same time; however, I don't have a front sight tool to install it. I appreciate any help in finding a good sight tool.


This one works fine for me: UTG AK Sight Tool

Others have had trouble with the front sight drum being a tight fit into the front sight block.  During my install, I put the sight drum in the freezer overnight and it only required a few taps with a rubber mallet before it dropped in.  Adjustment with the front sight tool after was a non-issue.

Unfortunately, my rear sight block was plagued with the same problems described here: http://www.tacti-cool.com/industry-news/2015/10/8/palmetto-state-armory-issues-psak47-recall and I was not able to zero the rifle, even after maxing out the windage adjustment on the front sight.  It's back at Palmetto now where I'm hoping it's being remedied.


Thanks for the tip unknown808; I will try that when I purchase that tool.
That sucks about the windage issue -- I'm glad to hear that PSA is taking care of ya'. Such an issue must have been sporadic with the first release. I purchased the gen 1 barreled receiver when it was first offered by PSA, and it has well centered rear sight block, sans described gaps, and proper pin placement. I guess I will figure out the windage when I get it sighted in.
11/8/2015 2:09:23 AM EDT
[#6]
A quick point to add:

The hand guard retaining latch will have the lever parallel to the barrel and in the direction of the muzzle when it's loose/open. You have to push the lever in the direction of the stock and again parallel to the barrel to close and retain the hand guard. I left a nasty scratch on my gas tube by keeping the lever perpendicular to the barrel during reassembly, as it was very taught there. I had to tap it lightly into place to seat it into place, using a small rubber hammer.

The MOE hand guard fits extremely well on my PSA -AK47 -- no wobble at all

I guess there's always a learning curve and a couple scratches along the way -- I'm glad I'm learning on something that won't haunt me for making noobie (scratch) mistakes.
11/20/2015 2:54:24 AM EDT
[#7]
Today I had some extra time to fit the top cover and sight drum. The top cover I received was a bit long and overlapped one side of the receiver, while the other side sat directly above and flush with the side of the receiver (Fig. 5). Also, the bottom rear portion of the top cover didn't fit into the notch ahead of the stock (Fig. 10). I had to slightly widen the cover closest to the rear with a couple pliers (Fig. 6), which allowed for the cover to overlap both sides of the receiver snugly and fit square into the notch ahead of the stock (Fig. 10). Do this before adjusting the cover length. I used some grease to fill in the top cover retaining gap in the rear sight block (Fig. 7), which allowed the grease to outline the portion of the metal I needed to cut (Fig. 8). White lithium or tooling dye might be a better substitute than beige grease, but it was what I had on hand. The top of the cover was shortened about two millimeters, except for the portion left of the groove near the rear sight block: this rectified a slight gap between the cover and the left of the rear sight block (Fig. 9). File the top cover so that it will leave a very small gap against the rear trunion (Fig. 10). I think I filed away just a little bit too much, as this gap (Fig. 10) could be smaller. Maybe someone could chime in with their own procedure I like critism lol. I think the gap in Fig. 10 shouldn't be completely eliminated to facilitate removal.

Now for the advice time:

The drum was set into position in the front sight block without binding issues using CLP and my friends sight tool.  However, the drum wasn't set at top dead center (TDC). How would someone rectify this? Is this a try and try again thing for setting the drum to TDC? Can one thread a hardened bolt into the drum and tap the bolt head with a hammer until it met up with TDC? If so, what was the bolt threading?

Also, the kit came with a long bolt, a small hexagonal nut, and a plastic wedge that has a hexagonal recess for the nut with a corresponding hole. What are these used for? Pic of unknown parts in the MOE kit:


ETA: Figures for Top Cover
11/20/2015 11:02:00 PM EDT
[#8]
I got a replacement safety selector from PSA today. This one dropped right in and functions great. As for the install, I lowered the hammer manually after pressing the trigger, inserted the safety with the safety lever arm at top dead center into the right side "keymod" slot until the pin met the retainer plate and left side receiver holes, and pulled the trigger to allow for clearance while turning the safety lever clockwise about 120 degrees.
I just need to screw my front sight post in after ensuring the sight drum is at top dead center, and I will be ready to go plinking 762.
11/21/2015 11:02:29 AM EDT
[#9]
Check raiser, I suppose I got lucky when installing the front sight drum and got it lined up tdc as I was pounding it in. Mine was very tight though and I actually broke an old AK sight tool trying to press it in (after I got it started with a hammer of course).  After I got it to the range and got another sight tool, I got it adjusted pretty good.  It's accurate enough for me anyway.  

I put a video up on my channel about the unboxing and I'll have one up soon of my review of the gun for anyone interested.  

darink300zx channel

11/21/2015 7:56:49 PM EDT
[#10]
Check-Raiser,

Thank you for starting this thread. I used it as a very timely reference as I put my together. I bought the same set-up as you except I got the build kit minus furniture, then bought the black MOE stuff separately.

My experience was the same as your except:
MOE beveled screw was too short and I had to get a longer one from Ace Hardware.
Front sight drum went in very straight with a few good whacks with a hammer and steel punch.
Sight post threaded right in but tight.
Top cover still slightly long but closes.
Had to file the lead-in edge where the hammer/trigger pins go thru the retainer plate.
I used the diamond file on my Leatherman and it went well.

Your post should at least be stickied. Great job!
BTW, the plastic piece in your last picture is the wedge that bolts to the MOE stock, held by that long screw and inserts into the back of the receiver. When tightening the screw from the back inside the stock, the two opposing wedges expand to fill the receiver and tighten it up.

I don't know how long this PSA AK will last. I bought it as a truck gun as an alternative to a WASR, as the last two Romanian rifles I had were slapped together all crooked. If I kill it, PSA will get it back and they can fix it. They did a fairly.decent job on mine, straight but finish seems like it might not be durable. That's what 1200° ceramic header paint is for, like on the other Romanians.
I'd actually gone in to the PSA store and looked at one of their rifles and it looked the same. The salesman gave me the same 'story' (sales pitch?) about suspending sales of the PSAK47. Then it showed up on the website... Hmmm.
I was more sold by the 4150 barrel, and will just have to watch the trunnions for wear.

Jeff.   GlockRocket34
11/22/2015 9:34:06 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote History
Quoted:
Check raiser, I suppose I got lucky when installing the front sight drum and got it lined up tdc as I was pounding it in. Mine was very tight though and I actually broke an old AK sight tool trying to press it in (after I got it started with a hammer of course).  After I got it to the range and got another sight tool, I got it adjusted pretty good.  It's accurate enough for me anyway.  

I put a video up on my channel about the unboxing and I'll have one up soon of my review of the gun for anyone interested.  

darink300zx channel

View Quote


Hi darink300zx, that's cool that you made such a video. There's nothing like unboxing a build kit. A torture test video would be awesome too btw-- that's if you have the extra $ for ammo.
As just for a record, which front sight tool did you break?
11/22/2015 9:45:52 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote History
Quoted:
Check-Raiser,

Thank you for starting this thread. I used it as a very timely reference as I put my together. I bought the same set-up as you except I got the build kit minus furniture, then bought the black MOE stuff separately.

My experience was the same as your except:
MOE beveled screw was too short and I had to get a longer one from Ace Hardware.
Front sight drum went in very straight with a few good whacks with a hammer and steel punch.
Sight post threaded right in but tight.
Top cover still slightly long but closes.
Had to file the lead-in edge where the hammer/trigger pins go thru the retainer plate.
I used the diamond file on my Leatherman and it went well.

Your post should at least be stickied. Great job!
BTW, the plastic piece in your last picture is the wedge that bolts to the MOE stock, held by that long screw and inserts into the back of the receiver. When tightening the screw from the back inside the stock, the two opposing wedges expand to fill the receiver and tighten it up.

I don't know how long this PSA AK will last. I bought it as a truck gun as an alternative to a WASR, as the last two Romanian rifles I had were slapped together all crooked. If I kill it, PSA will get it back and they can fix it. They did a fairly.decent job on mine, straight but finish seems like it might not be durable. That's what 1200° ceramic header paint is for, like on the other Romanians.
I'd actually gone in to the PSA store and looked at one of their rifles and it looked the same. The salesman gave me the same 'story' (sales pitch?) about suspending sales of the PSAK47. Then it showed up on the website... Hmmm.
I was more sold by the 4150 barrel, and will just have to watch the trunnions for wear.

Jeff.   GlockRocket34
View Quote


Hey GlockRocket34,

Your welcome! I know the AR platform pretty well, but this has been my first hand experience with an AK. Thanks for the input on the stock. I see how the wedge fills the receiver when tightened. I wonder if one should use a washer against the inside of the stock to distribute the force of the small screw head against the plastic. I plan on taking the stock off and taking some pictures for the hive to check out. As for the short screw problem for the stock, I was told to contact Magpul for a longer one. I used the short screw without the bushing in the mean time while I wait for a replacement. Btw, what size screw worked for the stock if you can recall. I hope PSA continues this line up -- I'm waiting for a FN CHF barreled receiver with forged trunnions and a maybe a nitride finish on the receiver for the next purchase. One can wish Thanks!!
11/23/2015 12:17:15 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote History
Quoted:


Hi darink300zx, that's cool that you made such a video. There's nothing like unboxing a build kit. A torture test video would be awesome too btw-- that's if you have the extra $ for ammo.
As just for a record, which front sight tool did you break?
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Check raiser, I suppose I got lucky when installing the front sight drum and got it lined up tdc as I was pounding it in. Mine was very tight though and I actually broke an old AK sight tool trying to press it in (after I got it started with a hammer of course).  After I got it to the range and got another sight tool, I got it adjusted pretty good.  It's accurate enough for me anyway.  

I put a video up on my channel about the unboxing and I'll have one up soon of my review of the gun for anyone interested.  

darink300zx channel



Hi darink300zx, that's cool that you made such a video. There's nothing like unboxing a build kit. A torture test video would be awesome too btw-- that's if you have the extra $ for ammo.
As just for a record, which front sight tool did you break?


I've got around 450 rounds through it so far, but don't know if I can afford to do a true torture test, lol, but we'll see.  The front sight tool I broke was one I've had since about 2000 so it was pretty old.  It looked just like the one in the following link made by tapco and probably was a tapco one.  

tapco sight tool

I replaced it with this UTG one.  It seems much better built.

Darin.
11/26/2015 6:21:47 AM EDT
[#14]
Check-raiser,

I don't think a thin washer under the stock bolt would be a bad idea. The screws I got were 10-24 x 1/2" long, just a touch long but worked fine.
I already stuck an old AK74 brake on mine and will go shoot it this morning. I'd be happier if if had the forged trunnions also, but I'm going to to 'run to failure' then change both. The work required is not bad, since its a little more then their AR 'Lego sets' but still less than actually building a rifle.
Happy Thanksgiving, one and all.

Jeff.   GlockRocket34
11/27/2015 1:55:08 PM EDT
[#15]
A quick note on 922(r) compliance:

A 922(r) compliant rifle should have at maximum ten 922(r) non compliant parts. As it states on the PSA website, the PSA barreled receiver and build kit contains 922(r) non compliant Bolt and Front Trunion and Bolt Carrier, Gas Piston, Trigger, Hammer, Disconnector, and Muzzle brake, respectively. This accounts for eight 922(r) non compliant parts; a milsurp comblock magazine counts as an additional three 922(r) non compliant parts, which will push you over the edge.

However, in order to use such mags, one could change the muzzle device for a U.S. made one with 14-1 LH threading for one part that's 922(r) compliant or a ALG/Tapco firing control group for three parts of 922(r) compliance
11/27/2015 1:56:02 PM EDT
[#16]
Magpul MOE Stock Assembly
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
11/28/2015 5:24:57 PM EDT
[#17]
AK Top Cover Install
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
12/3/2015 7:20:01 AM EDT
[#18]
Range Report, ...of sorts..
Took my PSA AK47 out Thanksgiving morning. three rounds, had to BEAT the stuck empty out of the chamber. (1 steel case, 2 brass cases) Cut hand smacking charging handle, used mallet.
Went back to PSA store, manager was very helpful. Said they need up to a few mags thru them  to 'break in'. If any problems, bring it in and they'll help me. Ooo-kkkkayyyy...
Last night, took the rifle, a bigger mallet and 3 30 round mags of Prvi Partizan brass ammo to PSAs indoor range. I warned the range master that I may be having a lot of issues.
First round- stuck case. Get mallet beat the hell out of charging handle, finally pops out.
Second round- same, third-eighth rounds, same. Ninth through 13th rounds, ejected but short cycled. Next round, perfect cycle. The 74 rounds shot perfect, including a final 30 round mag dump. The barrel was smoking and oil oozed out of all tight places.
Post-range "autopsy"- charging handle blueing has 'character' from mallet beating. A good wipedown with M7Pro and Hoppes cleaned it all up. Cycles smoothly by handle. Inside receiver around mag opening, rails and a few other places needed razor-sharp edges broken to prevent cuts when wiping out.
The charging handle looks shiny, a few rub marks on top of bolt carrier, all normal wear places for an AK.
Front sight was not canted so I initially centered the drum. Shots hit centered and in a tight cluster at 10 yards. Did not pay attention to rear setting but shots impacted ~2" above point of aim. I was more concerned with function at that point.

Jeff.       GlockRocket34
12/3/2015 5:08:41 PM EDT
[#19]
I had a few cases that got stuck in the chamber my first time out as well. I cleared them by using the edge of the table I was shooting from. After those few though it's been good since.

Darin.
12/8/2015 11:59:58 PM EDT
[#20]
Thanks for the heads up you two! I guess I will bring a mallet in my range bag

On a side note, I received the missing long screw and washer for the fixed MOE stock kit from Magpul gratis.
They actually game me a whole hardware kit to replace the single screw and washer. Those are placed to the right of the plastic bag.
The washer fits behind the bolt head from inside the stock.