[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Pinned Sear Block ???? (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 4/6/2010 2:33:39 PM EDT
| I traded for a Colt HBAR Match Target Competition that has the pinned sear block that has the lug that extendes above the top surface of the receiver. I guess it's a post ban model with no bayonet lug or flash hider. Does this raised lug serve any other purpose other than forcing the the use of an open rear "C" bolt and preventing the installation of an auto sear? I have no full auto plans but it would be nice to be able to swap uppers some time. Thanks. |
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you said what it did above.
you can still swap uppers. just use the same BCG it will also take the full circle rear AR15 bolt carrier as well. it just has a section milled out for the sear block. the block hurts absolutely nothing but the feelings of the fit and finish guys worried they may get laughed at while at the gun prom because they are not using a FA BCG ZOMG !!!! you got a fine gun, dont sweat the small stuff 
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Quoted: Shawn, I'll stick a full auto bolt in it and see if it clears. I couldn't tell if it was tall enough to hit the bolt or not. I wouldn't want to make any permanent modification to an all original older Colt. This one came with a Colt 4X20 scope as a bonus. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the whole point is to exclude M16 carriers from use in those rifles. |
This pic will help illustrate what Shawn is talking about
Shawn, feel free to grab the URL to this pic to use when the subject comes up 
http://home.comcast.net/~cjan99999/Circle_Carrier.JPG Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the whole point is to exclude M16 carriers from use in those rifles.
The half moon carrier was to prevent the use of a lightning link. The pinned sear block was to prevent the use of a drop in auto sear (DIAS). |
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oops.  hahaha 
I KNOW WHAT I AM TALKIN ABOUT DAMMIT!~!!!  
Shawn's a Colt expert, not an English expert! see if you were smart, like me, you would know that in literature. authors who are trying not to offend, spell it "dammit" not damn it. so I know what I am doing for fucks sake!!!
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oops. hahaha
I KNOW WHAT I AM TALKIN ABOUT DAMMIT!~!!!
Shawn's a Colt expert, not an English expert! see if you were smart, like me, you would know that in literature. authors who are trying not to offend, spell it "dammit" not damn it. so I know what I am doing for fucks sake!!! Uhh, isn't that "fuck's"?
Good explanation on the block; never actually saw one. Moon |
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Quoted:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the whole point is to exclude M16 carriers from use in those rifles.
The half moon carrier was to prevent the use of a lightning link. The pinned sear block was to prevent the use of a drop in auto sear (DIAS). The pinned sear block seved two purposes. 1) prevent DIAS installation and 2) block M16 carrier. If they only wanted to prevent a DIAS they would not need the nub that sticks out. |
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the whole point is to exclude M16 carriers from use in those rifles.
The half moon carrier was to prevent the use of a lightning link. The pinned sear block was to prevent the use of a drop in auto sear (DIAS). The pinned sear block seved two purposes. 1) prevent DIAS installation and 2) block M16 carrier. If they only wanted to prevent a DIAS they would not need the nub that sticks out. Thanks for the clarification CT
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Is that block hardened steel or aluminum? How hard is it to chop it off using a hacksaw? I have an old Sporter that has the block - it is rifle length, so the half moon bolt carrier is OK, but I do not like the half moon bolt carrier for carbine length - it just "feels" so "violent" when compared to the M-16 BCG for some reasons. Maybe I am just imagining things.
I've been thinking about just getting a hacksaw / a dremmel and "wrrrrrr' lop it off. But I don't think it would be that easy if that thing was made from hardened steel. |
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I used a handy Craftsmen smooth file to lower lug down,i filed the lug down about "1/8 and now use a Colt FA carrier without issues.
An "1/8 is all thats needed off that lug to be able to use a FA carrier.The lug is not hardened steel as one would think,took me about 10 minutes with a smooth file to lower lug. |
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I used a handy Craftsmen smooth file to lower lug down,i filed the lug down about "1/8 and now use a Colt FA carrier without issues. An "1/8 is all thats needed off that lug to be able to use a FA carrier.The lug is not hardened steel as one would think,took me about 10 minutes with a smooth file to lower lug. MUCH better news here. Me like 
That's right - why didn't I realize that before  . No wonder people call me a dumb ass all the time. I did an experiment by installing the M-16 carrier from my 6920 on the Sporter and the upper / lower did close, but the M-16 BC would not retract. It never occurred to me that all I had to do was to file the lug just by a tiny amount.
I think I am going to start now - screw sleep! Ten minutes, huh? |
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I think I am going to start now - screw sleep! Ten minutes, huh?
Ten minutes as long as you have a good sharp file,not one of those chicom crappy files !! Happy filing !! It didn't work for me - maybe I have the wrong type of file. The steel on my block seems to be HARD. The file is Made In USA. Maybe if I had a vice......do you think a dremel tool will work? |
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told you the milling machine bit was smokin as he cut it level with the sides of my lower Well, I am not planning on kicking the bucket anytime soon, so maybe I can file for two weeks, an hour a day, bit by bit I figure if I could go 1/32" a day, I'll shave off close to 1/2" by the middle of May.
I may need ten files to do it, though. That steel block seemed to worn my file away 
But then again, there is always a dremmel tool - off to Google I go now. |
| I think I found what I need - a dremel tool with assortment of wheels that can be attached at the end and "wrrrrrrrrr" - now I need to figure out how I can provide continuously flowing coolant. I don't want it to get too hot and ended up changing the lower's microstructure. |
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submerge it in a bucket of motor oil while you cut on it
dibs on frigged up lower when OP puts his eye out and cant shoot anymore  LOL! Not so fast - I found a solution - it involves a garden hose and continuously running water, and eye goggle with side shields. I am going to buy the dremel tool this Thursday and start the operation on my next days off. |
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Funny !!! Dont loose your trigger finger now !!!
I used Swiss files,the files i used are for sharpening chain saw teeth ! They were inexpensive at sears,avoid the craftsmen files,most are chinese now... Again,watch your fingers....and Tape the lower reciver as much as possible with painters masking tape(blue stuff) in case you have a runaway dremel tool !! Dont need a silver scratch line down the side !!! Expose only the area you are gonna work on.... Good luck ! |
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What buffer do your Match HBARs have in them? I picked up a ban-era Match HBAR A2 stock group that came with a black polymer buffer. It looks like a plastic covered "Edgewater" buffer. I was wondering how these buffers work.
I have a pre-ban slickside Sporter II that has a regular rifle buffer, no sear block and with a cut down semi-auto bolt carrier. Shots nice just the way it is. |
| So I had my sear block removed by ADCO. Does anyone have any advice about what to use or how to plug the hole left by the pin holding the sear block in? I realize the hole does not affect the function of the firearm, but I'd just like to make it look cosmetically less obvious. |
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Ocean,
Wow, that sounds like a disaster. I'd like to see a few photos of that. My opinion of what was done, and how it should have been done isn't going to be popular. I'll say unfortunately, you may end up being an example of what NOT to do. I know that hurts to hear, it being a Colt. I dont know how to fill that hole other than to thread it and plug it, a flat ended allen screw may fit from the inside and leave a flat surface on the outside. There are people that machine, refinish, resurface, and they may offer some solutions. Consider this. Some receivers have that pinned sear block. I never liked the pin hole(s) on the side(s), and I havent purchased any of those types of receivers for that reason. If you had sold that receiver to buy a Colt receiver without the pin hole, you probably could have had a receiver without any funky pin holes in it for what you have already spent. It cost you to have it removed by ADCO, and if you take that amount, and add it to what you could have sold your Colt for, you could have bought another. In that case, you wouldnt have this problem Good luck. Let us know what happens in the end plaease. -W |
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So I had my sear block removed by ADCO. Does anyone have any advice about what to use or how to plug the hole left by the pin holding the sear block in? I realize the hole does not affect the function of the firearm, but I'd just like to make it look cosmetically less obvious. m60joe can probably do this for you. He can actually take a completely out of spec M16 lower receiver and bring it into spec. He does amazing work and I would be surprised if he couldn't fill the hole left by the sear block. Also I have no idea what wools is talking about in his post. I would just ignore it... HTH!
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Ocean, Wow, that sounds like a disaster. I'd like to see a few photos of that. My opinion of what was done, and how it should have been done isn't going to be popular. I'll say unfortunately, you may end up being an example of what NOT to do. I know that hurts to hear, it being a Colt. I dont know how to fill that hole other than to thread it and plug it, a flat ended allen screw may fit from the inside and leave a flat surface on the outside. There are people that machine, refinish, resurface, and they may offer some solutions. Consider this. Some receivers have that pinned sear block. I never liked the pin hole(s) on the side(s), and I havent purchased any of those types of receivers for that reason. If you had sold that receiver to buy a Colt receiver without the pin hole, you probably could have had a receiver without any funky pin holes in it for what you have already spent. It cost you to have it removed by ADCO, and if you take that amount, and add it to what you could have sold your Colt for, you could have bought another. In that case, you wouldnt have this problem Good luck. Let us know what happens in the end plaease. -W To each his own. I am very happy with the work that ADCO performed. The sear block was very nicely removed and the rifle functions flawlessly. My question about filling the empty pin hole is merely cosmetic. I just don't like the look of the empty hole. Not a big deal, just a personal preference. No doubt it would have been cheaper to just buy a new rifle with the features that I wanted, but then where would be the fun in that?
Any collector value that the Colt had was long gone before I had the block removed. And probably disappeared when I decided to run 2,500 rounds throught the Colt that I had purchased NIB. This may be a "disaster" for a collector or for someone who likes safe queens, but I like the rifle just fine. |
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So I had my sear block removed by ADCO. Does anyone have any advice about what to use or how to plug the hole left by the pin holding the sear block in? I realize the hole does not affect the function of the firearm, but I'd just like to make it look cosmetically less obvious. m60joe can probably do this for you. He can actually take a completely out of spec M16 lower receiver and bring it into spec. He does amazing work and I would be surprised if he couldn't fill the hole left by the sear block. Also I have no idea what wools is talking about in his post. I would just ignore it... HTH! Thanks! I saw on his website the work he did relocating and filling in FCG and other pin holes. Looks like just what I need so I sent him an email. |
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So I had my sear block removed by ADCO. Does anyone have any advice about what to use or how to plug the hole left by the pin holding the sear block in? I realize the hole does not affect the function of the firearm, but I'd just like to make it look cosmetically less obvious. Usually people save the ends of the fat taper pins and glue them in with epoxy. ETA: Was it one of the single sided small pins or one of the larger diameter pins? |
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I think the disaster is to your wallet. A small lesson for other readers. I stay away from receivers that look like this: http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq335/ipipe4u/ColtSporterCompetitionHBAR.jpg or this: http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq335/ipipe4u/ColtSportermatchhbar.jpg or this: http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq335/ipipe4u/CARUG2.jpg or this: http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq335/ipipe4u/CARUG1.jpg I'm sure M60 joe can fix it for you. Well, those are all top quality lower receivers, so I wouldn't give this same advise, but to each his own... 
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I think the disaster is to your wallet. A small lesson for other readers. I stay away from receivers that look like this: http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq335/ipipe4u/ColtSporterCompetitionHBAR.jpg or this: http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq335/ipipe4u/ColtSportermatchhbar.jpg or this: http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq335/ipipe4u/CARUG2.jpg or this: http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq335/ipipe4u/CARUG1.jpg I'm sure M60 joe can fix it for you. Well, those are all top quality lower receivers, so I wouldn't give this same advise, but to each his own... yeah they are real disasters I mean look at them!! that pinned block makes the gun useless for the thousands and thousands of people with the need for a DIAS and super cool guy FA BCGs!! lol still better then 99 percent of other lowers out there and I have used those for years |