Posted: 2/12/2010 3:55:11 PM EDT
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In reading the install directions.....it says...... to put optic into ring and secure with loctite, then mount on rifle. Say what? Why/how would I level that then mount? Doesn't this seem backwards? |
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Most scopes have a flat on the bottom of the erectors.
Put some feeler gauges in there and rotate it until its parallel to the flat part between the scope rings. Tighten the top screws, mount on your rifle, and thats that. The design of the mount means that the mount itself with be parallel to the receiver, so everything will be square. If your scope doesn't have a flat on the bottom or its like my XTR1-4 and TR24 that weren't straight anyways, then you have to level the rifle with the scope mount and use a plumb bob line...to level the reticle to the rifle. Make sense? |
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Quoted:
Most scopes have a flat on the bottom of the erectors. Put some feeler gauges in there and rotate it until its parallel to the flat part between the scope rings. Tighten the top screws, mount on your rifle, and thats that. The design of the mount means that the mount itself with be parallel to the receiver, so everything will be square. If your scope doesn't have a flat on the bottom or its like my XTR1-4 and TR24 that weren't straight anyways, then you have to level the rifle with the scope mount and use a plumb bob line...to level the reticle to the rifle. Make sense? Can someone elaborate on this...I get the general idea but I need some more in depth explanation... |
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I have the same question...
What is to be gained by mounting the scope to the mount as described by the LaRue directions? What's wrong with putting the mount on the rifle and then leveling the reticle as is the normal routine when mounting a scope? Why complicate leveling the reticle with plumb bobs and bobby pins? What am I missing here? Does placing the mount on the rail cause warping or stress on the mount? |
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Quoted:
In reading the install directions.....it says...... to put optic into ring and secure with loctite, then mount on rifle. Say what? Why/how would I level that then mount? Doesn't this seem backwards? Only locktite the bottom ring screws. A scope tube (made in spec.) will turn with light friction in the rings then. I put mine on the the rail first. Do what is comfortable for you as either way works. Don't forget to adjust the levers to the 45 degree contact when closing them. Glad I'm not the only one to read directions. Enjoy the LT quality! |
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After finding a write-up about using a feeler guage I realized mounting the scope to the rings 1st, was much easier than trying to "balance" the rifle first.
And in my case, without a vise! Using the feeler guage to see that the bottom of the "leupold" scope was parallel to the LaRue mount made this pretty simple. Scope and bore are already real close.....time for some shooting! 
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Most scopes have a flat on the bottom of the erectors. Put some feeler gauges in there and rotate it until its parallel to the flat part between the scope rings. Tighten the top screws, mount on your rifle, and thats that. The design of the mount means that the mount itself with be parallel to the receiver, so everything will be square. If your scope doesn't have a flat on the bottom or its like my XTR1-4 and TR24 that weren't straight anyways, then you have to level the rifle with the scope mount and use a plumb bob line...to level the reticle to the rifle. Make sense? Can someone elaborate on this...I get the general idea but I need some more in depth explanation... All of my AR's have free float rails. When I install them, I confirm that the free float tube is level relative to my receiver by simply using a bubble level. When mounting a scope that doesn't have flats on the bottom, or a scope like my TR24 and old Burris 1-4 that had canted reticles (very fucking annoying), I will tie a plumb bob line to somewhere high up, and let it settle. I put the larue mount on the gun with the scope in it (bottom screws tightened/loctited, top screws not in yet). I will put the entire assembly in a rifle rest, level the rifle by using the free float forend as a reference, and then look through the scope at the plumb bob line, which due to gravity is perfectly vertical. I will rotate the scope as needed, then re-level the rifle and look through it to confirm. This may take a few tries to get it perfect. Once its set, I properly torque and loctite the top screws, then throw the assembly back in the rest, level it, and confirm that the scope didn't move. Using larue mounts, I've never had a scope rotate while tightening the top screws, and I've done atleast 4 of them. Even when I use the feeler gauge method, I still use the line to confirm that the reticle is square relative to the flat on the bottom of the scope. Thus far, the only scope I've owned that had a flat on the bottom that had a reticle that was perfectly level relative to the flat was my Nightforce 2.5-10x24. My TR24 and Burris XTR 1-4 were NOT, and the plumb bob/rifle rest method was the easiest way to confirm and correct it. I thought about sending the TR24 back, but since its not an optic that you make on the fly adjustments with it is irrelevant. |
