Posted: 2/10/2011 6:20:39 PM EDT
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I have recently bought a CMMG Quebec-A (ser. SCM-1052xx) and want to replace the factory installed flash hider.
It is very very tight. I have been try to heat it but it wouldn't move. There is no pin or anything that indicates it is pinned or welded on. What method would you recommend to remove it short of a barrel vise and a couple of Gorillas? Thanks, |
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Quoted: I have recently bought a CMMG Quebec-A (ser. SCM-1052xx) and want to replace the factory installed flash hider. It is very very tight. I have been try to heat it but it wouldn't move. There is no pin or anything that indicates it is pinned or welded on. What method would you recommend to remove it short of a barrel vise and a couple of Gorillas? Thanks, Are you using a vise or trying to stabilize the receiver some other way? |
| I took mine off today. I padded my vice jaws & held the FSB securely, but not too tightly. Then I just used a 10" adjustable (Crescent) wrench to remove it, turning it counterclockwise. If you are applying enough torque to your barrel to where you begin to see the barrel itself trying to turn, you should stop & reevaluate how your muzzle device is held on. The reason I held the FSB & not the action is because I don't feel comfortable putting that much strain on the indexing pin & slot area. If I were a .mil armorer, it'd be a different story, but I had to pay for my stuff out of my own pocket. I added that last part for the guys who like to throw the military manuals in your face. |
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Quoted:
I took mine off today. I padded my vice jaws & held the FSB securely, but not too tightly. Then I just used a 10" adjustable (Crescent) wrench to remove it, turning it counterclockwise. If you are applying enough torque to your barrel to where you begin to see the barrel itself trying to turn, you should stop & reevaluate how your muzzle device is held on. The reason I held the FSB & not the action is because I don't feel comfortable putting that much strain on the indexing pin & slot area. If I were a .mil armorer, it'd be a different story, but I had to pay for my stuff out of my own pocket. I added that last part for the guys who like to throw the military manuals in your face. I think you are wrong in your direction to turn the flash hider for removal. I just about twisted my barrel off.... my flash hider had to be turned clockwise to be removed..I tried to remove it late last nite, being a mechanic by trade, I knew something was wrong, I tried turning both ways and it wouldn't move so I krolled it and went to bed. This morning I went at it again and it wouldn't budge, until I heard a "crack". I went back and forth then something fell from under the barrel.. I picked it up and saw a little bit of threaded area, looked underneath the flash hider and saw a chunk of the flash hider broke off with the TAC WELD that was holding the flash hider in place. I then slowly proceeded to figure out it was clockwise turning to remove it. Everything looks fine otherwise.. Please rethink your post to be sure which way you turn to remove.. 
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For one, I always mount the barrel in the vise as others have stated...too much torque can be exerted with the upper placed in the vise and you having to wrench off a tight FH or brake. Get the barrel in the vise as close as you can to the threaded portion of the muzzle.
Second, with that much difficulty, it may be in your best interests to cut off the brake/FH with a cut-off wheel, the same way we take off pinned/welded muzzle devices. Yes, it will cost you to replace, but it beats possibly damaging your barrel beyond repair if something goes wrong or you are not sure of the thread pattern. Brakes & hiders do not need gorrilla torque to hold them in place, it shouldn't (I emphasize shouldn't) take all that much wrench turning to pop the thing off. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I took mine off today. I padded my vice jaws & held the FSB securely, but not too tightly. Then I just used a 10" adjustable (Crescent) wrench to remove it, turning it counterclockwise. If you are applying enough torque to your barrel to where you begin to see the barrel itself trying to turn, you should stop & reevaluate how your muzzle device is held on. The reason I held the FSB & not the action is because I don't feel comfortable putting that much strain on the indexing pin & slot area. If I were a .mil armorer, it'd be a different story, but I had to pay for my stuff out of my own pocket. I added that last part for the guys who like to throw the military manuals in your face. I think you are wrong in your direction to turn the flash hider for removal. I just about twisted my barrel off.... my flash hider had to be turned clockwise to be removed..I tried to remove it late last nite, being a mechanic by trade, I knew something was wrong, I tried turning both ways and it wouldn't move so I krolled it and went to bed. This morning I went at it again and it wouldn't budge, until I heard a "crack". I went back and forth then something fell from under the barrel.. I picked it up and saw a little bit of threaded area, looked underneath the flash hider and saw a chunk of the flash hider broke off with the TAC WELD that was holding the flash hider in place. I then slowly proceeded to figure out it was clockwise turning to remove it. Everything looks fine otherwise.. Please rethink your post to be sure which way you turn to remove.. When I said to turn the flash suppressor counterclockwise for removal, I was assuming that you'd be facing the muzzle end of the barrel. The barrel is threaded using right hand threads, just as any standard AR15 barrel is. I have no "rethinking" to do, I stand by what I posted. Good luck |