Posted: 3/1/2011 8:43:32 PM EDT
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How are you guys doing it?
The way I do it for a normal end plate is to dremel out a small divot and then take a punch and push/float metal in. Now I tried that tonight with an ASAP plate 
Here are the best pics I could get but due to the ASAP being over sized it and armor plated it made it pretty rough to say the least... 
Sorry for the shitty cell phone pics but the good camera couldn't focus on it... Some pics look ok but really, due to it being so high I dug a huge hole and pushed the metal until the upper part actually broke away. This created a lip that was curled over into the castle nut. I tried to push more metal but it was tapped out (  ) and couldn't really do much else. So some metal is in there, not as much as I would like but it is also has loctite to hold it in place. But if there is a better way, I am all ears!
So it's mostly just a curled lip that is in there as far as I can see. It did look as though I went deep enough with the dremel to push some metal into the space to act as a speed bump but now I can't see it with the lip... 
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"dremel out a small divot"
By doing this, you are removing some of the metal that could be used. Take a center punch, hold the point slightly tilted towards the castle nut cut-out. Tap the punch to get the stake started. If its not pushing enough metal, move the center punch slightly away from the castle nut, to hit it in a new spot behind the previous strike - strike again. You only need to push a lip of metal into the cut-out, the stake mark is pushing the metal into the cut-out. If the stake mark goes too deep, you may crack lower quality endplates. edit to add: Here is a good photo, make your stake like this and its good to go: Click here for a really good faq on the M4 
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| Yeah a standard plate is easy. The ASAP plate is oversized an hardened. The top of the ASAP is probably 2 mm above the castle nut. It's not as easy as just pushing some metal. You can do that and be a mm over the castle nut and won't be staked at all. It has to be deep. Probably 3 mm deep to get it into and actully stake the castle nut. Otherwise you won't stake anything. |
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You don't need to move much metal at all for a decent staking job. I wouldn't get to worried about it, displace a bit of metal in 2 sections and be done with it. Oh I know that and agree. But what I am saying is the ASAP is very tall and displacing metal on top doesn't actully get down to the castle nut itself. I got enough loctite on it that it'll never come off but I like to stake it was well. On a DPMS I use as my main gun for hunting/training/competition I have a GG&G single point sling plate on it an no stake. Only loctite and I'm doing it that way to see how long it takes to gave something fail on that gun. 3k rounds and it's golden so far
The ASAP is on a Spikes 16" Midlength, actually on a few Spikes lowers. |
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How are you guys doing it? I use an autopunch. It makes it very easy, and it's almost impossible to screw up since it slowly displaces the metal. With the castle nut to the right of the plate, I place the punch a little to the right of center on the plate. If you don't like where it started, just change positions; the first strike won't move much material. After a couple of strikes, and the punch has a hold in the material, I then angle the punch about 30 degrees toward the castle nut. Then just keep pushing down the autopunch, checking the work every few strikes. It usually takes a dozen hits or so. Once enough material has been pushed out over the slot in the castle nut, I usually adjust the angle of the punch down toward the nut to press the material into the slot. Look here for some pictures I posted recently: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=19&t=522705 |
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Quoted:
How are you guys doing it? I use an autopunch. It makes it very easy, and it's almost impossible to screw up since it slowly displaces the metal. With the castle nut to the right of the plate, I place the punch a little to the right of center on the plate. If you don't like where it started, just change positions; the first strike won't move much material. After a couple of strikes, and the punch has a hold in the material, I then angle the punch about 30 degrees toward the castle nut. Then just keep pushing down the autopunch, checking the work every few strikes. It usually takes a dozen hits or so. Once enough material has been pushed out over the slot in the castle nut, I usually adjust the angle of the punch down toward the nut to press the material into the slot. Look here for some pictures I posted recently: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=19&t=522705 Oh shit, I even read that thread a when he posted and saw your stake job. I didn't realize that it was an ASAP. Where do you get this auto punch and how much are they? I had displaced enough metal but couldn't get it 'down' into the slot with the hammer and punch. I can do the other side still. |
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Where do you get this auto punch and how much are they? They are usually less than $10 at Lowes, Home Depot, or pretty much any hardware store. They look like this: Auto Center Punch |
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Where do you get this auto punch and how much are they? They are usually less than $10 at Lowes, Home Depot, or pretty much any hardware store. They look like this: Auto Punch Just a spring loaded deal? It's now on my shopping list. Thank you! |
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Just a spring loaded deal? It's now on my shopping list. Thank you! No problem. And yes, it works by compressing a spring and internal hammer as you push the punch down, and then at the end of the travel, the spring releases and slams the hammer into the punch. ETA: This is the exact same one I have: Auto Center Punch |
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Another hint.
For autofocusing using your good camera, just take a piece of paper or something it can focus at the same distance you want to take your photo.. then press the button down half way for the focus to happen, and then keeping the button half way down, move it on to your target. If this isn't your problem, and you couldn't autofocus due to the item being too close to the camera.. look for a picture of a flower on one of the buttons.. pressing this will set your camera in marco mode which allows you to focus on closer targets. Oh and like the others said. I wouldn't have removed metal. just punch the ASAP plate's metal into the castle nut's niche. |
Thanks for the tip on the camera. As for removing metal, I only dig a very small hole, it actually broke of when trying to stake it down into the groove. I dremel was only to provide a divot for the punch to catch. Eh, what are ya gonna do 
I'm gonna get that auto punch this week and give that a go
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I bought my spring-loaded punch at Lowes and I've staked over 20 Castle Nuts with it.
It's easy to get it centered and two to three "push strikes" is usually perfect. Best tool for the job without a doubt - don't do it without one. I also purchased one at Harbor Freight Tools, but it was a total POS. Go to Lowes or Home Depot and get the silver punch with anodized aluminum body and stainless steel tip -$10. I want to say mine's Made in the USA?? My 2 cents ... |