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AR15.COM
2/12/2009 1:42:53 PM EDT
Magpul - I love your MIAD grips.  I'm in the proceses of replacing all my A2 grips with these.  I do have one recommendation though.  Please switch to a head head pistol grip screw.  I've stripped the screw with one of my MIADS's while trying to install it on a Stag lower.  A hex head screw would really allow one to crank down on the screw with less chance of stripping it which I think will require a tap a re-thread in my case.


Edited to add: There is not and never was a problem with the MIAD grip screw, the problem was the nut behind the screwdriver.
2/12/2009 1:44:45 PM EDT
[#1]
I completely second this, having installed both, a hex head would be a nice upgrade.

Oh well, in before DrDrake!
2/12/2009 1:54:15 PM EDT
[#2]
+1 one
2/12/2009 1:56:49 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
Magpul - I love your MIAD grips.  I'm in the proceses of replacing all my A2 grips with these.  I do have one recommendation though.  Please switch to a head head pistol grip screw.  I've stripped the screw with one of my MIADS's while trying to install it on a Stag lower.  A hex head screw would really allow one to crank down on the screw with less chance of stripping it which I think will require a tap a re-thread in my case.


The reason for the current screw is this is what is used on the original A2 grip.

Finding a long enough hex head in the field might be a problem but if you managed to take off your A2 grip you just use the same tool to install ithe MIAD or Moe.

2/12/2009 2:01:51 PM EDT
[#4]
Actually, that's a good point. Tango Down has to include a longer hex wrench with each grip.

Not sure if that's economically feasible for each MIAD/MOE.

Now if ONLY I could find MIAD cores in stock for the bolt/firing pin.
2/12/2009 2:04:17 PM EDT
[#5]
I have a CMMG which came with a hex head screw (which I repaced with a MIAD a few weeks ago )  That's what I was planning on putting back in when I noticed two things; 1. the hex head is longer than the MIAD screw which may proclude the use of some of the core accessories, and 2.  the threads on the inside of the Stag are buggered now.  I'm going to see if I can get someone (I already have one offer) to tap and rethread.
2/12/2009 2:19:45 PM EDT
[#6]
I have stripped a lot more hex screws than standard screws.
2/12/2009 5:15:08 PM EDT
[#7]
Perhaps Magpul is already in this practice, but how about including a cheap Allen wrench with the MIAD Full kits?  Would help with installing the enhanced trigger guard.

It also couldn't hurt to note in the literature that one should tighten the grip screw until snug, then back off two turns to make the installation of the enhanced trigger guard easier.
2/12/2009 6:50:37 PM EDT
[#8]
you guys could just go to the hardware store and pick up a new bolt for 25 cents like i did.
2/12/2009 8:09:29 PM EDT
[#9]
It's the threads on the inside of the receiver that are stripped.  The bolt is already written off.
2/13/2009 4:31:20 AM EDT
[#10]
i dont see how switching from one type of screw to the opther is going to prevent people from stripping out their recievers. thats a user error...
2/13/2009 5:18:08 AM EDT
[#11]
The problem with the MIAD screw is Magpul applied way too much threadlocker.  Scrape about half of it off before you install the screw.  If the screw gets tight before it bottoms out, back it out a little, then screw it down again.  Repeat until snug.

Hopefully you didn't strip the aluminum threads in your receiver.
2/13/2009 6:13:45 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
The problem with the MIAD screw is Magpul applied way too much threadlocker.  Scrape about half of it off before you install the screw.  If the screw gets tight before it bottoms out, back it out a little, then screw it down again.  Repeat until snug..


I ran into the same problem so I busted out my drill and ran that baby home.  She is nice and tight now and I have no more hand cramps from trying to tighten down that darn screw.
2/13/2009 6:30:46 AM EDT
[#13]
Ouch, I used a screw driver, I wouldn't trust my receivers with a drill.
2/13/2009 7:04:34 AM EDT
[#14]
My neighbor had a 1/4x28 tap and I was able to correct my cross threading job.  The new grip is now on and working fine.  I did cut the hex head grip screw to the same length as the MIAD grip screw and am using that one.  Now I only have 3 AR's left without MIADS.  Anyone want to place a bet on whether I bugger up one of them?
2/13/2009 1:27:25 PM EDT
[#15]
Good grief, I can't believe how much trouble everyone has screwing in a simple machine screw.  And buggering up the threads in your lower by just screwing away with abandon is insane.  The lower is aluminum and costs big $$. The screw is steel and costs 5 cents and is easily replaceable.  Guess which one wins in a pissing contest?  Protect the lower at all costs!!

Rule 1.  Use a screwdriver that fits the slot.  No undersized bits with buggered up heads.  Don't make do with whatever crap you have handy.  Everyone should know this unless you flunked high school shop.

Rule 2.  Test fit the screw to the threaded hole in lower BY HAND before putting the grip on.  It should screw in by hand up to the thread locker.  If not you gotta problem to address.  The threads in the lower may need chasing or the screw is out of spec or there is some dirt in the threads.  Figure it out!!   Did I mention test fitting BY HAND first?

Rule 3.  If there is too much thread locker on the factory screw scrape some off so that is doesn't bind you to a premature stop.

Rule 4.  Never Ever force a screw home thinking more muscle will solve the problem.  See Rule No. 2.
2/13/2009 1:56:49 PM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
Good grief, I can't believe how much trouble everyone has screwing in a simple machine screw.  And buggering up the threads in your lower by just screwing away with abandon is insane.  The lower is aluminum and costs big $$. The screw is steel and costs 5 cents and is easily replaceable.  Guess which one wins in a pissing contest?  Protect the lower at all costs!!

Rule 1.  Use a screwdriver that fits the slot.  No undersized bits with buggered up heads.  Don't make do with whatever crap you have handy.  Everyone should know this unless you flunked high school shop.
Rule 2.  Test fit the screw to the threaded hole in lower BY HAND before putting the grip on.  It should screw in by hand up to the thread locker.  If not you gotta problem to address.  The threads in the lower may need chasing or the screw is out of spec or there is some dirt in the threads.  Figure it out!!   Did I mention test fitting BY HAND first?

Rule 3.  If there is too much thread locker on the factory screw scrape some off so that is doesn't bind you to a premature stop.

Rule 4.  Never Ever force a screw home thinking more muscle will solve the problem.  See Rule No. 2.



I'm starting to wish that I hadn't made fun of the kids who took shop class.

Oh well, I'll just by another lower