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AR15.COM
8/6/2008 10:22:31 AM EDT
For any fellow FLEOs or LEOs...

At my station there was a rather interesting debate going around a while back about reloading for a semi-auto rifle as apposed to boltie.  The issue pertained to fire-forming the cases before reloading.  One opinion was that it makes no difference if a case was fire-formed in either weapon, semi or boltie, as both weapons have a unique breech signature which would match the specific cartridge fired in the weapon.  However, there was also the adamant opinion that you absolutely CANNOT reload a fire-formed case for a semi-auto rifle... the case must be fully sized instead of only neck-sized or feeding problems will ensue.  I have never heard of a fire-formed case binding in the weapon that it was originally fired in.

I have an M1-A, but I have never developed any handloads for it.  I have, however, reloaded for several other rifles, but all of them were bolt action.  This is something that I would like to know before I dive head on into reloading for my new toy... only to find that my "neck-sized only" rounds won't feed properly.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

tz

USBP
8/6/2008 10:57:43 AM EDT
[#1]
Not a LEO but avid reloader...I don't know if neck sizing only will fit in my AR's, I dont have a neck sizing only die for .223, I full length resize and trim if necessary, and everything works just fine.  The same ammo will feed and fire in all my AR15's no problems.

If you're a reloader and have a neck sizing only die, just make a couple dummy rounds neck sizing only and find out if they feed OK or not.  

Visit the reloading forum here www.ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=6&f=42
8/6/2008 12:18:38 PM EDT
[#2]
IMHO and that is all it is I use to reload alot for my AR I tried neck sizing but kept having feed problems every now and then.  Maybe like 2 out of 50.  I eventually found out that it was because at the range me and my buddy both shot AR's and I was mixing some of his brass with mine and that became a problem.  I am not sure why manually I could get them feed into the chamber but they didnt when fired.  i never had a problem with any other reloads that I had just those couple that had his head stamps on them.  I started using a full length die and never ever had that problem again.  I was using 77 gr Sierra's with lake city brass and he used wichester brass.

That was 3 years ago and I have now given up reloading cause I found that either I have time to shoot or I can use that time to reload.  
8/6/2008 4:28:18 PM EDT
[#3]
Gets down to reliability.  FL resizing for the semi auto aids in reliabilty.
8/6/2008 6:27:51 PM EDT
[#4]
you should do some research before reloading for the m1a. They are very tough on brass and they require some special attention beyond whats required for bolt guns (more than most other autos for that matter)
8/18/2008 10:17:28 AM EDT
[#5]
Thanks to all who replied.  After doing some research I found that the only opinion that really stood out to me was about headspace possibly being the reason for feeding problems in some weapons, as in if headspace is taken from the shoulder of the cartridge.  This could be a problem if the neck sizing caused the shoulder to bulge a little, which would most likely be unnoticeable.

But, the common consensus seems to be that feeding problems shouldn't be the issue to be concerned about... the issue is necessity.  From what I have been told, and it does make sense, since the weapon is a semi-auto... the difference in accuracy, if any, will be nominal at best, and will most likely be unmeasurable, thereby making the whole issue an excercise of futility.  But, what's wrong with that?  hankstz

USBP
8/18/2008 1:40:05 PM EDT
[#6]
I used to have an M16 and a Mini14 that had identical chambers.
I could necksize and reload cases from either rifle for either rifle.  
As long as I kept that brass isolated trom the other brass no problems either semi or full auto.

YMMV
8/19/2008 7:41:23 AM EDT
[#7]
There is a BIG differance between loading for the semi vs bolt gun.

As we know, in the gas gun the bullet leaves the case moving toward the muzzle.  When the bullet reaches a certain point the gas is bled off and starts to cycle the action, WHILE THE BULLET IS STILL IN THE BARREL.  So you still have chamber pressure pushing against the inside of the shoulder while the bolt (because of the action on the gas) has started to cam, pulling on the rear of the case.  You are stretching the case (two oposing forces working).  

Get a Wilson Case gage, (not just messuring the neck lenth) that messures the case from should to the back of the rim.  Use it on cased fired in both a gas gun and a gas gun, you will see the gas gun stretches the case from the shoulder to the base, where the bolt gun (assuming a correct headspace chamber) dosnt' or not as much.

You should use the wilson gage to set up your sizing die to make sure the case is formed to proper lenght.

Inproper case lenth can cause extracting problems, chambering problems and even slam fires.  Its not as critical on the AR as far as slam fires but it is on the M1A or M1.

You can also make your own gages using an old barrel blank, cutting it to length (of a new case) and using a chamber reamer for your caliber.  If the case is sized properly the base of the case will be flush with the case gage.  To see what I mean, take a Wilso gage to the range, and check the brass that comes out of differant gas guns.  You'd be supprised at the results.