[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Weekend Project Complete (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 11/30/2009 3:52:58 PM EDT
|
Well my new safe is on order and should be arriving anytime now. I decided over the long weekend to build a pedestal to raise the height of the safe and distribute the weight of it over a larger area. I built one of these for my other safe but this one needed to be able to hold a couple thousand pounds.
I built it using 2x12s and 3/4" plywood. I used a combination of screws and bolts to lock the 2x12s together and then screwed and bolted it to the sub floor. I then attached the top and finished the carpeting. It looks good (carpet covers a lot) and is super solid. I think I could park a tank on this thing. Until the safe arrives I'll try to talk the little lady into using it as a stage. 
Once I lock this all down it will be solid as a rock. The height of the safe will make it much easier to get things in and out and at 6' 4" I won't have to duck down to look inside. Without getting beat up too bad by some more skilled carpenters on here what do ya think..?? |
|
Well it is as permanently attached to the house as the walls are.
The whole thing is bolted to the sub floor from the inside, the top was put on and bolted/ screwed down. Once the safe is on top and bolted down you can't reach the bulk of the bolts and screws holding the top on. Is it impenetrable ? NO... but nothing really is. If you bolt your safe to the floor the floor can still be chopped out with an axe. I doubt that professional thieves would target my humble collection and there are several layers to my security. Ultimately a good insurance plan with separate coverage is the only security blanket |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
How will you then bolt whatever to the ground? I used a combination of screws and bolts to lock the 2x12s together and then screwed and bolted it to the sub floor
Yes, because wood is the best bolting down material ever. Unless your floor is concrete... then your in the same boat. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Strap off to the top of the safe and 5 or 6 guys could tear it right off that thing. Safe fail big time! but not from your floor...? Nope, I believe having the safe redheaded directly into concrete is the strongest. With that pedestal, the safe is only bolted into wood, plywood at that. It will tear out of the top of that pedestal much easier. ETA: Not to mention that 3 minutes with a skilsaw and sawzall and it's free or much much much easier to tear out. |
|
Ok you make a nice strong base so you don't have to bend down to get to the bottom of the safe.
If that base is not filled with concrete and secured to a base iwth rebar you made it easy for them to tip the safe onto a cart. Now if you bought a good safe, Just how you going to lift it onto that base? Oh dang a Indiana boy that screwed up. I thought you were taught better then that. |
|
Quoted:
Well my new safe is on order and should be arriving anytime now. I decided over the long weekend to build a pedestal to raise the height of the safe and distribute the weight of it over a larger area. I built one of these for my other safe but this one needed to be able to hold a couple thousand pounds. I built it using 2x12s and 3/4" plywood. I used a combination of screws and bolts to lock the 2x12s together and then screwed and bolted it to the sub floor. I then attached the top and finished the carpeting. It looks good (carpet covers a lot) and is super solid. I think I could park a tank on this thing. Until the safe arrives I'll try to talk the little lady into using it as a stage.
Once I lock this all down it will be solid as a rock. The height of the safe will make it much easier to get things in and out and at 6' 4" I won't have to duck down to look inside. Without getting beat up too bad by some more skilled carpenters on here what do ya think..?? http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/MONGOWARRIOR/IMG00309.jpg http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/MONGOWARRIOR/IMG00310.jpg http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/MONGOWARRIOR/IMG00311.jpg http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/MONGOWARRIOR/IMG00316.jpg http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/MONGOWARRIOR/IMG00318.jpg http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/MONGOWARRIOR/IMG00319.jpg Holy screw holes batman! Putting that many holes negates any strength improvement the large quantity screws/bolts would provide. Looks pretty easy to disassemble with 20 minutes, electric drill and a wrench. |
|
Well I guess I should have pumped concrete into my upstairs closet.
This was not built to make it harder to steal. It was built to raise the safe and spread out the weight. As for making it harder or easier I think its a wash..... If your safe is bolted to sub floor and floor joists it's the same.... Any safe can be defeated... period If they want it so bad that they are showing up at my house with: two or three guys, power tools, plasma cutter, refigerator mover, silenced pistols for the dogs and neighbors, alarm decoder, and rappelling gear to E&E to their Zodiac if the mission is compromised then..... I guess they got my humble collection and I gotta call the insurance guy. 
|
Then why did you buy a safe?
|
Quoted:
Well I guess I should have pumped concrete into my upstairs closet. No, but with concrete you could make it a little more immobile: - remove some of the cross members - place plastic on the bottom so it doesn't bond with the existing garage deck. - fill the whole thing with concrete and you could set bolts in it while wet, using a plywood template of the hole pattern in the bottom of your safe to ensure accuracy. Something that heavy would take some time to remove/break up. Other: One of my coworkers placed lead in the bottom of his refridgerator sized safe. I've moved plenty of safes and four guys wouldn't be hauling that thing anywhere. |
|
Looks good. Never mind the nay sayers. Even if you bolt a safe to concrete, thieves have wrapped a towline from a tow truck to the safe and just yanked it out of the concrete and up onto the truck. 5 minutes, start to finish. Nothing is 100%. Shit, just having a safe is better than most have. Just as an FYI, theres a safe section in the Armory. |
|
Quoted:
Well I guess I should have pumped concrete into my upstairs closet. This was not built to make it harder to steal. It was built to raise the safe and spread out the weight. As for making it harder or easier I think its a wash..... If your safe is bolted to sub floor and floor joists it's the same.... Any safe can be defeated... period If they want it so bad that they are showing up at my house with: two or three guys, power tools, plasma cutter, refigerator mover, silenced pistols for the dogs and neighbors, alarm decoder, and rappelling gear to E&E to their Zodiac if the mission is compromised then..... I guess they got my humble collection and I gotta call the insurance guy. 
I don't get it with some of these guys riding you so hard on this. What the hell would thieves do with it once they remove it from the stand? Are they going to drag and roll it out of you house while it's fully loaded with a fork lift/crane? I imagine it will be pushing over 1K if it's loaded up. A thief would be better off cutting/breaking into the safe where it sits anyway. Enjoy your stand and don't let these guys stress you. You have probably gotten a load of responses from people who don't even own a safe to begin with and know little to nothing about them. |
|
there are a lot of perfectionists in here today! Yes, we're all big boys and we all know a ready-made concrete closet with reinforced rebar and lead ingots mixed into the crete, built into a hill on 3 sides is the best way to do it.
However, If you A: just HAVE to have it on a second-floor room, then it looks like you're making the best of it. Might I suggest reinforcing the joists underneath your pad with perpendicular bracing also. |
|
Quoted:
Looks good. Never mind the nay sayers. Even if you bolt a safe to concrete, thieves have wrapped a towline from a tow truck to the safe and just yanked it out of the concrete and up onto the truck. 5 minutes, start to finish. Nothing is 100%. Shit, just having a safe is better than most have. Just as an FYI, theres a safe section in the Armory. Thanks.... To me neighbors, dogs, locks, alarms, safes, and ultimately insurance is about the best you can do. Again, if they want what you have they get it. I doubt pros are gonna waste their time on my gear. I will add claymores, barbed wire, spike pits and a moat filled with sharks with freakin' laser beams on their heads next weekend. |
|
A gun safe belongs in the MAN CAVE GARAGE bolted to the fucking concrete floor with a rolling tool chest on one side and kegerator on the other. There should be a poster of at least one gorgeous woman with huge tits on the wall above.
A gun safe does not belong in a bedroom closet next to a pile of the wifes shoes and purses stacked ontop. |
|
Quoted:
A gun safe belongs in the MAN CAVE GARAGE bolted to the fucking concrete floor with a rolling tool chest on one side and kegerator on the other. There should be a poster of at least one gorgeous woman with huge tits on the wall above. A gun safe does not belong in a bedroom closet next to a pile of the wifes shoes and purses stacked ontop. ALRIGHT, Post the pic. Lets see it. Put up or..... |
|
Quoted:
A gun safe belongs in the MAN CAVE GARAGE bolted to the fucking concrete floor with a rolling tool chest on one side and kegerator on the other. There should be a poster of at least one gorgeous woman with huge tits on the wall above. A gun safe does not belong in a bedroom closet next to a pile of the wifes shoes and purses stacked ontop. Plus one...got the big safe bolted to the concrete floor in the garage..... |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
A gun safe belongs in the MAN CAVE GARAGE bolted to the fucking concrete floor with a rolling tool chest on one side and kegerator on the other. There should be a poster of at least one gorgeous woman with huge tits on the wall above. A gun safe does not belong in a bedroom closet next to a pile of the wifes shoes and purses stacked ontop. Plus one...got the big safe bolted to the concrete floor in the garage..... Not trying to shoot holes in this theory but in your garage would make it easier to attack with a tow chain and a vehicle correct ? |
|
Quoted: Lol, as a building contractor,I've installed my share of safes. I don't use redheads though.Quoted: Never mind the nay sayers. LOL Yeah never mind the guys that actually install safes the way they were engineered to be used. I use threaded anchors set in concrete. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Lol, as a building contractor,I've installed my share of safes. I don't use redheads though.
Quoted:
Never mind the nay sayers. LOL Yeah never mind the guys that actually install safes the way they were engineered to be used.
I use threaded anchors set in concrete.
So you demo out a large section of existing garage floor to repour and set anchors? |
|
I think he did a fine job. He achieved what he was after, easier access for himself. The only reason for bolting the safe to the floor is so it isnt tipped over easily. I dont think his stand will fit easily out the 36" front door. I like the idea but I would have changed it slightly and made storage space in the stand for ammo cans to slide into.
carry on |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
A gun safe belongs in the MAN CAVE GARAGE bolted to the fucking concrete floor with a rolling tool chest on one side and kegerator on the other. There should be a poster of at least one gorgeous woman with huge tits on the wall above. A gun safe does not belong in a bedroom closet next to a pile of the wifes shoes and purses stacked ontop. Plus one...got the big safe bolted to the concrete floor in the garage..... Not trying to shoot holes in this theory but in your garage would make it easier to attack with a tow chain and a vehicle correct ? 
|
|
Quoted: Quoted: Well my new safe is on order and should be arriving anytime now. I decided over the long weekend to build a pedestal to raise the height of the safe and distribute the weight of it over a larger area. I built one of these for my other safe but this one needed to be able to hold a couple thousand pounds. I built it using 2x12s and 3/4" plywood. I used a combination of screws and bolts to lock the 2x12s together and then screwed and bolted it to the sub floor. I then attached the top and finished the carpeting. It looks good (carpet covers a lot) and is super solid. I think I could park a tank on this thing. Until the safe arrives I'll try to talk the little lady into using it as a stage. Once I lock this all down it will be solid as a rock. The height of the safe will make it much easier to get things in and out and at 6' 4" I won't have to duck down to look inside. Without getting beat up too bad by some more skilled carpenters on here what do ya think..?? http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/MONGOWARRIOR/IMG00309.jpg http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/MONGOWARRIOR/IMG00310.jpg http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/MONGOWARRIOR/IMG00311.jpg http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/MONGOWARRIOR/IMG00316.jpg http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/MONGOWARRIOR/IMG00318.jpg http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/MONGOWARRIOR/IMG00319.jpg Holy screw holes batman! Putting that many holes negates any strength improvement the large quantity screws/bolts would provide. Looks pretty easy to disassemble with 20 minutes, electric drill and a wrench. If a thief came into my house with an electric drill, matching socket and a wrench... then I have been totally cased and they REALLY wanted what I had. Was it someone on here who had their safe stolen and the thief cut out the wood flooring and drywall to get the safe... Some of these criminals are friggin nuts |
|
Quoted: Snip So you demo out a large section of existing garage floor to repour and set anchors? Yes. Its not that big a deal. The slabs are usually 6-8 inches thick. Its time consuming but its the best way I know to make it as secure as I can. I don't install them on a daily or even monthly basis. Just every now and again. In this area, the people doing it aren't really concerned with cost. That helps.  |
|
I think a lot of people on here picture Tom Cruise dropping out of their ceiling on wires to rip out a safe via helicopter.
I'll tell you if they wanna do that for a 6920, a couple Glocks, and a hunting shotgun then I'll be on here posting the stolen serial numbers....
|
|
Quoted: Well I guess I should have pumped concrete into my upstairs closet. This was not built to make it harder to steal. It was built to raise the safe and spread out the weight. As for making it harder or easier I think its a wash..... If your safe is bolted to sub floor and floor joists it's the same.... Any safe can be defeated... period If they want it so bad that they are showing up at my house with: two or three guys, power tools, plasma cutter, refigerator mover, silenced pistols for the dogs and neighbors, alarm decoder, and rappelling gear to E&E to their Zodiac if the mission is compromised then..... I guess they got my humble collection and I gotta call the insurance guy. agreed. I like it. |
|
You have a future as an aerospace strength engineer; "When in doubt, make it stout".
I like your pedestal. I plan to build one for multiple safes and I will probably fill the pedestal with concrete weights instead of attaching it to the house. With three safes bolted on, none of it is going anywhere. I want to finish mine with tongue and groove oak flooring. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Well I guess I should have pumped concrete into my upstairs closet. This was not built to make it harder to steal. It was built to raise the safe and spread out the weight. As for making it harder or easier I think its a wash..... If your safe is bolted to sub floor and floor joists it's the same.... Any safe can be defeated... period If they want it so bad that they are showing up at my house with: two or three guys, power tools, plasma cutter, refigerator mover, silenced pistols for the dogs and neighbors, alarm decoder, and rappelling gear to E&E to their Zodiac if the mission is compromised then..... I guess they got my humble collection and I gotta call the insurance guy.
I don't get it with some of these guys riding you so hard on this. What the hell would thieves do with it once they remove it from the stand? Are they going to drag and roll it out of you house while it's fully loaded with a fork lift/crane? I imagine it will be pushing over 1K if it's loaded up. A thief would be better off cutting/breaking into the safe where it sits anyway. Enjoy your stand and don't let these guys stress you. You have probably gotten a load of responses from people who don't even own a safe to begin with and know little to nothing about them. THIS nuff said |
|
Quoted:
dude, a few rounds of 155mm artillery fired into the room, and that safe platform won't last at all. thank you thunderbolt & lightfoot good job my self, if a bunch of crooks want to take the time to pry my safe from its moorings have at it. i'm insured and figure they went through all that trouble enjoy. |