Posted: 11/26/2009 3:48:02 AM EDT
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Anyone fancy a traditional Ruby? Well it might be more British than you think http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/magazine/8370054.stm
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By Rumeana Jahangir BBC News |
The British have long enjoyed food
with a bit of bite. And 200 years ago, an Indian migrant opened
Britain's first curry house to cater for the fashion for spicy food.
with a bit of bite. And 200 years ago, an Indian migrant opened
Britain's first curry house to cater for the fashion for spicy food.
"Indian
dishes, in the highest perfection… unequalled to any curries ever made
in England." So ran the 1809 newspaper advert for a new eating
establishment in an upmarket London square popular with colonial
returnees.
dishes, in the highest perfection… unequalled to any curries ever made
in England." So ran the 1809 newspaper advert for a new eating
establishment in an upmarket London square popular with colonial
returnees.
 |  These were curries made with coriander seeds, salt, peppercorns and lemon juice  Janet Clarke |
Diners at the Hindostanee Coffee House could smoke hookah pipes and
recline on bamboo-cane sofas as they tucked into spicy meat and
vegetable dishes.
recline on bamboo-cane sofas as they tucked into spicy meat and
vegetable dishes.
This was the country's first dedicated Indian restaurant, opened by an entrepreneurial migrant by the name of Dean Mahomed.
But
Britons already had a taste for curry. A handful of coffee houses
served curries alongside their usual fare, and in the gracious homes of
returnees, ladies attempted to recreate dishes and condiments their
families enjoyed on the sub-continent.
Britons already had a taste for curry. A handful of coffee houses
served curries alongside their usual fare, and in the gracious homes of
returnees, ladies attempted to recreate dishes and condiments their
families enjoyed on the sub-continent.
Some wrote out their own
recipes; others may have used one of the many editions of Hannah
Glasse's The Art of Cookery, first published in 1747, which contained
recipes for curries and pilaus.
recipes; others may have used one of the many editions of Hannah
Glasse's The Art of Cookery, first published in 1747, which contained
recipes for curries and pilaus.
 A 1950s curry banquet |
"The first recipes were very mild, using more herbs than spices,"
says antiquarian bookseller Janet Clarke, who specialises in
gastronomic titles. "These were curries and pilaus made with coriander
seeds, salt, peppercorns and lemon juice."
says antiquarian bookseller Janet Clarke, who specialises in
gastronomic titles. "These were curries and pilaus made with coriander
seeds, salt, peppercorns and lemon juice."
By the 19th Century,
ginger, cayenne, turmeric, cumin and fenugreek had been added to the
mix. "I have tried making these old recipes myself - they are
wonderful."
ginger, cayenne, turmeric, cumin and fenugreek had been added to the
mix. "I have tried making these old recipes myself - they are
wonderful."
Piccalilli is an early English attempt at Indian
pickle; kedgeree's origins are more ambiguous, but this colonial-era
dish uses Indian spices.
pickle; kedgeree's origins are more ambiguous, but this colonial-era
dish uses Indian spices.
Food historian Ivan Day says cooking
methods also differed. "The British didn't really get the idea of
frying the meat in ghee or another fat. Rather than the fresh spices
available in India, these had been on a boat for half a year."
methods also differed. "The British didn't really get the idea of
frying the meat in ghee or another fat. Rather than the fresh spices
available in India, these had been on a boat for half a year."
Spicy mix
Peter
Groves, co-founder of National Curry Week, which started on Sunday,
says the Western taste for spicy foods developed centuries earlier.
"All the spices of the East came back with the people who fought in the
Crusades."
Groves, co-founder of National Curry Week, which started on Sunday,
says the Western taste for spicy foods developed centuries earlier.
"All the spices of the East came back with the people who fought in the
Crusades."
| OED DEFINITION OF MASALA  A mixture of ground spices, sometimes blended with water or vinegar to make a paste, used in Indian cookery A person who or thing which comprises a highly varied mixture of elements Indian English: Piquancy, pep, vigour, excitement |
The lucrative spice trade prompted various European powers to
establish their presence in India, either through trading companies or
colonisation.
establish their presence in India, either through trading companies or
colonisation.
This "masala" of cultures, and the Mughal
conquest of India, resulted in hybrid creations, including
Persian-inspired biryani and vindaloo, a Goan version of a Portuguese
meat dish.
conquest of India, resulted in hybrid creations, including
Persian-inspired biryani and vindaloo, a Goan version of a Portuguese
meat dish.
Indians tend to label dishes by specific names like
korma and dopiaza. "Curry is a catch-all term," says Dr Lizzie
Collingham, author of Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors. "It's easy
shorthand for 'what Indians eat'."
korma and dopiaza. "Curry is a catch-all term," says Dr Lizzie
Collingham, author of Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors. "It's easy
shorthand for 'what Indians eat'."
One theory suggests the word
comes "kari", Tamil for sauce. However, an English cookbook, The Forme
of Cury, was published in the 1390s. (Read it online with
Project Gutenberg
)
comes "kari", Tamil for sauce. However, an English cookbook, The Forme
of Cury, was published in the 1390s. (Read it online with
Project Gutenberg
)
"All hot food of the time was referred to as cury. It came from the French word 'cuire' which means to cook."
Exotic tastes
A 19th Century account records the British in India eating curry for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
 A plaque marks the spot |
Yet within three years of opening the Hindostanee in London, its proprietor, Mr Mahomed, applied for bankruptcy.
"It
was a good restaurant but the climate was wrong," says Mr Groves.
"People didn't go out to eat then. They tended to have their own chef
or do cooking at home."
was a good restaurant but the climate was wrong," says Mr Groves.
"People didn't go out to eat then. They tended to have their own chef
or do cooking at home."
The restaurant carried on until 1833, but under different ownership.
The British enthusiasm for all things Indian spread to the expanding middle classes over the 19th Century.
"Queen
Victoria made it very fashionable, as she had an Indian staff who
cooked Indian food every day," says Mr Day. At Osborne House, Victoria
- the Empress of India - built an Indian-themed state room decorated by
an eminent architect of the Punjab.
Victoria made it very fashionable, as she had an Indian staff who
cooked Indian food every day," says Mr Day. At Osborne House, Victoria
- the Empress of India - built an Indian-themed state room decorated by
an eminent architect of the Punjab.
| CURRY SCENE in VANITY FAIR "Give Miss Sharp some curry, my dear," said Mr Sedley, laughing. Rebecca had never tasted the dish before. "Do you find it as good as everything else from India?" said Mr. Sedley. "Oh, excellent!" said Rebecca, who was suffering tortures with the cayenne pepper. "Try a chili with it, Miss Sharp," said Joseph, really interested. "A chili," said Rebecca, gasping. "Oh yes!" She thought a chili was something cool, as its name imported, and was served with some. "How fresh and green they look," she said, and put one into her mouth. |
Curry became so popular, an 1852 cookbook stated "few dinners are
thought complete unless one is on the table". Novelist William
Thackeray - who was born in Calcutta - penned a Poem to Curry, and
inflicted a blisteringly hot curry on his anti-heroine Becky Sharp in
Vanity Fair. (Read it online with
Project Gutenberg
)
thought complete unless one is on the table". Novelist William
Thackeray - who was born in Calcutta - penned a Poem to Curry, and
inflicted a blisteringly hot curry on his anti-heroine Becky Sharp in
Vanity Fair. (Read it online with
Project Gutenberg
)
But the interest in curry cooled after 1857 when Indian soldiers rebelled against British rule in the subcontinent.
"[Curry's
popularity] recovered by the 1870s when Prime Minister Disraeli decided
to make empire a part of his politics," says Dr Collingham.
popularity] recovered by the 1870s when Prime Minister Disraeli decided
to make empire a part of his politics," says Dr Collingham.
India
became the brightest jewel in the crown, but Mr Groves says British
culinary interests were turning from East to West. "Everyone who was
anybody had French chefs."
became the brightest jewel in the crown, but Mr Groves says British
culinary interests were turning from East to West. "Everyone who was
anybody had French chefs."
Curry and chips
"At the
beginning of the 20th Century, curry was not very popular," says Dr
Collingham. "It was not well-to-do to have a house that smells of
curry."
beginning of the 20th Century, curry was not very popular," says Dr
Collingham. "It was not well-to-do to have a house that smells of
curry."
Instead, the British diet was dominated by red meat, accompanied by home-grown vegetables such as cabbage and potatoes.
 Curry sauce with that? |
At the same time, a number of Indian sailors jumped ship or were
dumped at major ports including Cardiff and London. These seamen from
Sylhet - now a region in Bangladesh - opened cafes, mainly to cater for
fellow Asians.
dumped at major ports including Cardiff and London. These seamen from
Sylhet - now a region in Bangladesh - opened cafes, mainly to cater for
fellow Asians.
"They were self-taught but they cleverly adapted themselves to the British palate," says Mr Groves.
And
in the 1940s, they bought bombed-out chippies and cafes, says Ms
Collingham, selling curry and rice alongside fish, pies and chips.
"They stayed open really late to make money to catch the after-pub
trade."
in the 1940s, they bought bombed-out chippies and cafes, says Ms
Collingham, selling curry and rice alongside fish, pies and chips.
"They stayed open really late to make money to catch the after-pub
trade."
And so the ritual of the post-pub curry was born.
"It
took quite a long time for the British to recover from World War II,"
says Ms Collingham. "They were willing and more open to try new
things."
took quite a long time for the British to recover from World War II,"
says Ms Collingham. "They were willing and more open to try new
things."
After 1971, there was an influx of Bangladeshis
following war in their homeland, particularly to London's rundown East
End. Many entered the catering trade, and today they dominate the curry
industry.
following war in their homeland, particularly to London's rundown East
End. Many entered the catering trade, and today they dominate the curry
industry.
 Just one of the UK's curry hotspots |
"They own 65-75% of the Indian restaurants in the country. Without
their input and hard work, we wouldn't have the curry industry that we
have today," says Mr Groves.
their input and hard work, we wouldn't have the curry industry that we
have today," says Mr Groves.
An industry so popular the then
foreign secretary Robin Cook described chicken tikka masala as "a true
British national dish" - and yet another example of an Indian recipe
modified for British tastes.
foreign secretary Robin Cook described chicken tikka masala as "a true
British national dish" - and yet another example of an Indian recipe
modified for British tastes.
Ms Collingham says ultimately, the British love affair with curry boils down to the imagined glamour of the Raj.
"India has a certain magic because of the colonial relationship."
Indian food is much more popular in the UK than the US. When I travel to Manchester, my local colleagues and I will go to Wilmslow Road. They call it the Curry Mile. There you will find bright neon signs advertising curry house after curry house. I really like the way they do lamb.  Had some fine meals on Wilmslow Road. Next week I travel to India for a week and will try the local variety. |
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Yeah, like the Brit's have any taste in food... It's no wonder they'd take a liking to curry, you know something that has some flavor.
Curry is hit or miss in the States, if you find a good place you're in luck, but most of the Indian places suck... Sort of like most Chinese places suck. |
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Quoted: Yeah, like the Brit's have any taste in food... It's no wonder they'd take a liking to curry, you know something that has some flavor. Curry is hit or miss in the States, if you find a good place you're in luck, but most of the Indian places suck... Sort of like most Chinese places suck. Because they have to change it for white people to eat. Only go to places that speak shitty english , full of people of that culture and are semi unc lean and you'll find the best food. |
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Quoted:
Doh! 
I was meant to post this in the UKHTF, home of the curry eater. While I'm here I'll just say that you Yanks don't realise what you're missing
Oh well, your loss is our gain  Some of us here do have great Indian places locally... Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Quoted:
Doh!
I was meant to post this in the UKHTF, home of the curry eater. While I'm here I'll just say that you Yanks don't realise what you're missing
Oh well, your loss is our gain I agree. First Curry I ever had was at an amazing Indian Restaurant in Stowmarket back in 1985. 
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